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Old 11-30-2010, 01:20 AM   #12601
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I stripped another of those damned black oxide 4-40 flathead screws that hold the top deck and battery tray. Does anyone know where I can get these in titanium or stainless?
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Old 11-30-2010, 02:01 AM   #12602
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What kind of 1/16 hex drivers are you using?

Maybe the tip is worn.


Titanium and stainless are softer so they would strip easier, but I have no problems with either the steel screws I use for the bottom and the Ti screws I use for the upper chassis. The stock screws that came with my cars(3+ yrs old) are top grade.
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:56 AM   #12603
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What kind of 1/16 hex drivers are you using?

Maybe the tip is worn.


Titanium and stainless are softer so they would strip easier, but I have no problems with either the steel screws I use for the bottom and the Ti screws I use for the upper chassis. The stock screws that came with my cars(3+ yrs old) are top grade.
I only use Integy hex drivers that supposedly are titanium nitride-coated. I got the Type-R used (albeit in great condition) and maybe the previous owner had already sort of rounded the sockets.
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:23 AM   #12604
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Go to McMaster and get all you screws there. I have nothing but stainless in all my cars and have had no issues. They have all the sizes for the car you would need.
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:51 AM   #12605
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Originally Posted by raycerZ View Post
I only use Integy hex drivers that supposedly are titanium nitride-coated. I got the Type-R used (albeit in great condition) and maybe the previous owner had already sort of rounded the sockets.
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSFS.cfm
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:12 AM   #12606
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I have lundsford titanium screw set for my XXX4, my hex drivers do not fit nearly as good as with the standard screws. For $100 I wasn't too impressed, they look cool but strip easy.
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:38 AM   #12607
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Thanks Steve.

Was at Mike's for half the day today tweaking on the sedan.
If there's a stock class, I'll be racing through the winter.

I'll hunt down a TP 5200.. My batteries are a couple of years old.
Hey Mark are you going to be at the toys for tots race?the boys will be running 17.5 no timing etc,i will be running open esc
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:35 PM   #12608
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Hey guys I've got tp 5000 40c packs with deans. What way are you putting the battery in the car if I put the wires forward it hits the steering and it doesn't seem to fit the other way.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:06 PM   #12609
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I'm using a different battery but the wires are in the same location as TP's. My ESC is mounted on the top deck so the wires come out then up pretty high so there isn't any contact with the steering linkage at all as you can see in the pic. If you have your ESC mounted on the left side maybe using longer wires from the ESC will bring the battery wires up higher?
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:41 PM   #12610
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
I'm using a different battery but the wires are in the same location as TP's. My ESC is mounted on the top deck so the wires come out then up pretty high so there isn't any contact with the steering linkage at all as you can see in the pic. If you have your ESC mounted on the left side maybe using longer wires from the ESC will bring the battery wires up higher?
You're running foam tires, and you electronics on the top deck and you're car isn't flipping off the track? your track must have some very low grip.
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:16 PM   #12611
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MikeXray

The track I go to is on a rubberized gym floor so I've been experimenting with different tires because of the lack of any traction Foams are working OK but a few guys were hooking up with HPI Super Radials without inserts so I'm giving them a try this week. With rubber on low traction carpet though, top mounted ESC works great.
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:42 PM   #12612
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I was thinking about the problem of the droop screws splitting when you try to adjust them. I know the screws on my car stick up above the arm quite a bit. I think if you thread a nut onto the droop screw it will give enough support to the screw to prevent it from splitting.


Got my body all painted and decaled last night. Just have to decide on wire routing them I'm ready to run. Also installed my Exotek top deck, I don't like the carbon fiber battery tray holders so I cut down the stock aluminum pieces for a much better system.
I couldn't find a sensor cable long enough locally so I had to swap my esc and reciever from one side to the other. I don't like my speedo on the same side as the belts. Its a mamba max pro so its a bit big. Oh well
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:10 PM   #12613
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Originally Posted by outtafocus View Post
I was thinking about the problem of the droop screws splitting when you try to adjust them. I know the screws on my car stick up above the arm quite a bit. I think if you thread a nut onto the droop screw it will give enough support to the screw to prevent it from splitting.
I ran the type-r for years and never once "split a droop screw." How are you doing this?
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:12 PM   #12614
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I ran the type-r for years and never once "split a droop screw." How are you doing this?
I put the tip of my wrench in the set screw and attempted to turn it.
Using no more force than any screw in plastic takes.

I actually doubted it when I first read that it was happening, until I split one my self.

There seems to be a few people having this problem, so maybe a duff production run of these pins?

They threaded into the arm fine, just when I went to adjust the droop the set screw split open.
All the holes were pre tapped, I only tried the one screw so it might happen again. Thats why I will try the nut idea, I will probably change the droop screws to metric any way.
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:18 PM   #12615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outtafocus View Post
I put the tip of my wrench in the set screw and attempted to turn it.
Using no more force than any screw in plastic takes.

I actually doubted it when I first read that it was happening, until I split one my self.

There seems to be a few people having this problem, so maybe a duff production run of these pins?

They threaded into the arm fine, just when I went to adjust the droop the set screw split open.
All the holes were pre tapped, I only tried the one screw so it might happen again. Thats why I will try the nut idea, I will probably change the droop screws to metric any way.
even 2 years ago there were bad batches of those pins, back then you wanted the silver colored ones, they were strong enough.
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