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Old 09-12-2010, 09:03 PM   #12241
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
As far as i know losi has no plans to redesign a 1/1o touring car. I do not speak directly with anyone at losi however, so i'd advise shooting an email over to them for the most up to date info.

The only other person who was using a type r at vegas was Brian Lutz, he made the stock a main with it but had some bad luck and broke out.
I used a Losi too. just happened that my Top was a little easier to drive.

Great job out there man. Just remeber the famous quote "that is a losi, Ha ha" You truly make the losi look amazing race after race.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:14 PM   #12242
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
As far as i know losi has no plans to redesign a 1/1o touring car. I do not speak directly with anyone at losi however, so i'd advise shooting an email over to them for the most up to date info.

The only other person who was using a type r at vegas was Brian Lutz, he made the stock a main with it but had some bad luck and broke out.
I got my car figured out for the last round only to blow out and cost me some spots on the grid. I was following the train at the start of the A and got sent to the boards when there was a mistake in front of me. The car didn't feel right after that and I had major driver failure.

The car is still a contender as Mike proved in superstock. Nice drive buddy!
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:06 AM   #12243
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I do not speak directly with anyone at losi however, so i'd advise shooting an email over to them for the most up to date info.

Well, i'd advise Losi/Horizon to put you on their payroll right away!


Great job Mike!
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:25 AM   #12244
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Well, i'd advise Losi/Horizon to put you on their payroll right away!


Great job Mike!
Yeah that's going to happen soon because losi is so into inroad. If its not 1/8 off road or a toy they really don't care. Haynes is a hell of a wheel and he sure got it done with the type r.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:44 AM   #12245
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Well, after about two weeks I have finished my Type R build. This was the longest, toughest and ultimately most satisfying build I’ve ever done. Man, what a nice looking car – no batteries hanging off one side, counterbalanced by a motor hanging off the other side waiting to get rocked in a racing incident. Nice, sleek design.

With this car I was also making the transition to LiPo/Brushless and this is where the fun started. At the time of my car purchase I also bought a Tekin RS Pro/Redline combo and an Integy LiPo with bullet connections. When I do a build on a car that’s new to me I always do a trial build to get a feel for the overall car and identify areas I want to concentrate on in the final build. To my surprise when I bolted in the Redline motor there was almost zero room for gearing adjustment due to interference with the left rear inner pivot block; and of course the LiPo was a problem in the lay shaft area, battery tray and access to the bullet connections.

After about an hour work with a Dremel cutting wheel on the pivot block I was able to create enough clearance to enable enough adjustment to use up to a 42T pinion with the stock 128T spur. A bit of advice to anyone trying this is to be careful cutting as this is a fairly expensive piece. I would also advise purchasing another set of inner pivots and making adjustments on this set also with the idea of using one set for high roll center and one set for low roll center. The cutting will get into the threads and you probably don’t want to rely on these threads in the alternate configuration.

The next area was the lay shaft. I know everyone recommends the Flying Fox product, but this wasn’t an option for me. I put a washer between the pulley and shim on each end of the lay shaft then Dremeled out a slot in the A3327 drive hub to accommodate a shorter pin (part # A6406) such as used on the other pulley. The slot should be deep enough to offer a good fit for power transmission purposes and allow free rotation of the lay shaft. This now locks the lay shaft to the hub rather than the spur gear. I would advise putting the slot in the lined up position of the original pin. The next thing is to cut off some of the nub in the middle of the spur gear to allow it to be able to be fitted on the shaft. Only cut off enough to allow the C clip to be installed. Unless long term racing proves different, I think I’m going to like the mod.

The next area was to Dremel the sides of battery tray to fit the battery. Even after doing this I still need to loosen the top deck in order to install the battery. I think I’ll leave it this way for the time being since loosening the top deck is easy with the above deck steering layout and I plan to leave the battery in the car and not exchange batteries anyway. Finally I had to Dremel the top deck to allow access to the battery posts.

When I went to do my initial in car charge the charge leads would not extend down fully onto the battery posts due to interference with the top deck and I was concerned about a possible short circuit between the two posts. I didn’t want to Dremel out any more of the top deck in this area so I made an adapter by soldering a male bullet connector to the end of a female bullet barrel and applied heat shrink for protection.

Well, hopefully I’m ready for a shake down cruise next weekend!
My thoughts, hope this can help any other new comers.

One question for you old timers. In the Outdoor Rubber Setup sheet it mentions 2 O rings above the bladder in the shock setup. Any insight and O ring part numbers would be appreciated.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:21 AM   #12246
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One question for you old timers. In the Outdoor Rubber Setup sheet it mentions 2 O rings above the bladder in the shock setup. Any insight and O ring part numbers would be appreciated.
I don't think anyone puts anything above shock bladders much anymore.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:06 AM   #12247
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Paul is making a new design though I am not sure when they will be done. I believe he wants some ready for the NSW state titles at the end of OCT so they should be ready by then.

Here is my setup for the SA state titles last weekend. Car seemed to be the equal of anything out there on the track when driven cautiously. I am not sure if it could have gone faster as it just wasn't needed. Note this setup was for a asphalt surface that has been painted to enhance its grip. It was also sugar watered as well.
Tried your setup with a couple of minor variations to suit the track and my driving style.... Found that the high roll centers in the rear works quite well, and suits my driving style quite well. Managed to finish 3rd with a cogging LRP SXX SS.... took a lot of driving to keep in front! :P can't wait for my RS Pro to come back from Tekin!!

You heading to the Nationals in Nov?
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:32 AM   #12248
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Originally Posted by calvin View Post
Well, after about two weeks I have finished my Type R build. This was the longest, toughest and ultimately most satisfying build Iíve ever done. Man, what a nice looking car Ė no batteries hanging off one side, counterbalanced by a motor hanging off the other side waiting to get rocked in a racing incident. Nice, sleek design.

With this car I was also making the transition to LiPo/Brushless and this is where the fun started. At the time of my car purchase I also bought a Tekin RS Pro/Redline combo and an Integy LiPo with bullet connections. When I do a build on a car thatís new to me I always do a trial build to get a feel for the overall car and identify areas I want to concentrate on in the final build. To my surprise when I bolted in the Redline motor there was almost zero room for gearing adjustment due to interference with the left rear inner pivot block; and of course the LiPo was a problem in the lay shaft area, battery tray and access to the bullet connections.

After about an hour work with a Dremel cutting wheel on the pivot block I was able to create enough clearance to enable enough adjustment to use up to a 42T pinion with the stock 128T spur. A bit of advice to anyone trying this is to be careful cutting as this is a fairly expensive piece. I would also advise purchasing another set of inner pivots and making adjustments on this set also with the idea of using one set for high roll center and one set for low roll center. The cutting will get into the threads and you probably donít want to rely on these threads in the alternate configuration.

The next area was the lay shaft. I know everyone recommends the Flying Fox product, but this wasnít an option for me. I put a washer between the pulley and shim on each end of the lay shaft then Dremeled out a slot in the A3327 drive hub to accommodate a shorter pin (part # A6406) such as used on the other pulley. The slot should be deep enough to offer a good fit for power transmission purposes and allow free rotation of the lay shaft. This now locks the lay shaft to the hub rather than the spur gear. I would advise putting the slot in the lined up position of the original pin. The next thing is to cut off some of the nub in the middle of the spur gear to allow it to be able to be fitted on the shaft. Only cut off enough to allow the C clip to be installed. Unless long term racing proves different, I think Iím going to like the mod.

The next area was to Dremel the sides of battery tray to fit the battery. Even after doing this I still need to loosen the top deck in order to install the battery. I think Iíll leave it this way for the time being since loosening the top deck is easy with the above deck steering layout and I plan to leave the battery in the car and not exchange batteries anyway. Finally I had to Dremel the top deck to allow access to the battery posts.

When I went to do my initial in car charge the charge leads would not extend down fully onto the battery posts due to interference with the top deck and I was concerned about a possible short circuit between the two posts. I didnít want to Dremel out any more of the top deck in this area so I made an adapter by soldering a male bullet connector to the end of a female bullet barrel and applied heat shrink for protection.

Well, hopefully Iím ready for a shake down cruise next weekend!
My thoughts, hope this can help any other new comers.

One question for you old timers. In the Outdoor Rubber Setup sheet it mentions 2 O rings above the bladder in the shock setup. Any insight and O ring part numbers would be appreciated.
The next thing I would suggest is to grind down the axles to the nut to prevent catching on something and breaking a c-hub
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:44 PM   #12249
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so i just bought one of these, maybe shoulda gone w/the team xray t2'008 ?? I don't see Losi selling any more touring cars so the support / parts maybe limited in the future ??

Just comparing this to a company that makes exclusively touring cars ... ur guys's thoughts ?

Im just a local club/for fun racer ..
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:38 PM   #12250
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so i just bought one of these, maybe shoulda gone w/the team xray t2'008 ?? I don't see Losi selling any more touring cars so the support / parts maybe limited in the future ??

Just comparing this to a company that makes exclusively touring cars ... ur guys's thoughts ?

Im just a local club/for fun racer ..
you don't have to worry about parts, there is still a steady supply online..
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:39 PM   #12251
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so i just bought one of these, maybe shoulda gone w/the team xray t2'008 ?? I don't see Losi selling any more touring cars so the support / parts maybe limited in the future ??

Just comparing this to a company that makes exclusively touring cars ... ur guys's thoughts ?

Im just a local club/for fun racer ..
There is plenty of parts support and at about 1/3 the cost of X-ray.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:43 PM   #12252
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The next thing I would suggest is to grind down the axles to the nut to prevent catching on something and breaking a c-hub
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:41 PM   #12253
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I don't think anyone puts anything above shock bladders much anymore.

Yeah, I stopped using the two o-rings above the bladder cause it makes my shocks leak.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:43 AM   #12254
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Why do I get the feeling this was in reference to the IIC race where he was leading, tapped a board and was done?
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:48 AM   #12255
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Tried your setup with a couple of minor variations to suit the track and my driving style.... Found that the high roll centers in the rear works quite well, and suits my driving style quite well. Managed to finish 3rd with a cogging LRP SXX SS.... took a lot of driving to keep in front! :P can't wait for my RS Pro to come back from Tekin!!

You heading to the Nationals in Nov?
I am planning too but it is very likely that it will be with a 12th scale only. Unless I have a lot of stuff sorted by then it will only be for one class and the 12th is 10 times the fun.
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