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Old 09-03-2010, 09:42 AM   #12181
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One way I was showed for measuring droop, was to measure how much the chassis was raised to the point the tire lifts from the set up board on that corner of the car. In other words, set your car to ride height, check one side at a time, lift chassis front or rear & when tire lifts, measure height chassis was lifted. Adjust droop screw & measure again, then do other side. I have checked how accurate this is & it is very close to how Losi recomends doing it, you just don't have to take off the tires.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:57 AM   #12182
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dragonfire
i saw your car at the S.A titles and it looked awsome on the track congrats on the win!
did you use the outside or inside hole on the steering rack? Im looking to copy your set up for club racing there.
ps how did you fit twin 25 mmm fans on there i have some AE 25 mm fans but cant get them to fit
cheers chris
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any info on top plate mods or any other mods you have done would be awsome also.
a pic of your car could maybe help me
The car was ok but I think it would have been better with an LTC-R body for better steering at those average speeds. I always run the kit setting for ackerman as I find it is the best balance of everything. Running the longer steering links gives more steering but makes it hard to get on power without losing the rear end. You can achieve better results by reducing the rear toe as the rear end bite holds up well even with very little toe.

The twin cooling fans are attached to an "L" shaped bit of graphite plate. There is a heatsink on the motor and I space the fans up just enough to clear the heatsink although I will very likely change this whole setup real soon. My new ESC is giving me spastic low motor temps so I would rather reduce the weight up high and towards the rear of the car.

I run a butchered upper deck (who doesn't with this car) but leave the front upper deck supports in. I have found the removing all the upper deck supports gives the chassis a lot of high speed understeer where as this works much better on average. I have attached a pic of everything so you can have a look for yourself.


Something new I have started doing is running the diff without the brass washer/spacer. I find the diff seems tighter and it seems to help keep the dirt out of the diff. I would be interested to hear if anyone else has found this as well.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #12183
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The Losi way threw me off because it was different then the way the HUDY manual states. The HUDY manual is the same method that flyinturtle mentioned. I will use Dragons way next since I have setup wheels and should probably make use of them. Thanks for the input.

Last edited by js058515; 09-03-2010 at 04:03 PM. Reason: I must have been drunk when I was typing!
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:59 AM   #12184
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thanks heaps dragonfire!
good stuff mate! the mark webber of rc
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:58 PM   #12185
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The Losi way threw me off because the way mentioned by flynturtle was how I went a out it. I will use Dragons way next since I have setup wheels and should probably make use of them. Thanks for the input.

Just out of curiousity was my way easy to understand for you & did it help? If it did, good
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:04 PM   #12186
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Just out of curiousity was my way easy to understand for you & did it help? If it did, good
I edited my original post, not sure what I was saying there. But thank you anyways.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:44 PM   #12187
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I edited my original post, not sure what I was saying there. But thank you anyways.
Okay, just trying to help
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:42 PM   #12188
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thanks heaps dragonfire!
good stuff mate! the mark webber of rc
Hardly... He can drive. Hope he gets the support he deserves now that he is clearly the stronger driver in the team for a championship victory.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:32 PM   #12189
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Here is a explanation I did on another thread with respect to measuring droop using the same method utilized by Losi for the Type R. The only things you need are a flat surface, some droop blocks or something similar to raise the car and a ruler. This is similar to that used by Dragonfire.


Droop Suspension Setting
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:54 PM   #12190
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Are there any issues that can come up with the motor wires being so close to the diff mount? If they were to touch, will it cause any damage to the esc or motor or both.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:42 PM   #12191
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Whoa that's close!

Can you bend the tabs a little?

I'm thinkin a motor spacer but it'll move the motor a couple mm's to the left.

Maybe something as simple as some black electrical tape on the bulkhead.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:49 PM   #12192
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Yeah, electrical tape will do the trick! I didn't realize it until my brother mentioned it to me. Phew!
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Old 09-06-2010, 01:39 AM   #12193
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Make sure you use a high quality black tape like 3M's or else it'll just fall off and leave a sticky mess, especially with the heat from the motor.
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:13 PM   #12194
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I would use heat shrink if you don't need to change the motor for different classes.
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Old 09-06-2010, 10:19 PM   #12195
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I would use heat shrink if you don't need to change the motor for different classes.
I was thinking that too, but I am not quite picturing how I would do it. Any ideas MaxRain?
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