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Old 08-14-2010, 04:02 AM   #12091
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YIKES!!

Unstable....not good.


How can you tell which IP's have the new chemistry?
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:33 AM   #12092
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Two Questions:

1 - What is the best way to lock up the front diff? I bought the car used, previous owner attempted to lock up the front diff but it is not staying locked, it loosens up after each race? To rebuild the diff will cost about $40 in new parts or I could buy the one way for $52. All I really want is to lock it for good. Flying Fox is out of stock.

2 - What brushless motors fit? I just purchased a Speed Passion Short Course Master for my stadium truck but decided to install in the Losi, the motor was way too big. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:58 AM   #12093
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Chip you have a PM.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:16 AM   #12094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
YIKES!!

Unstable....not good.


How can you tell which IP's have the new chemistry?
All the main manufacturers started changing to new chemistry around July-Sept, August most of the Manufacturers are just emptying old inventory.
So it shouldn't be long until all new packs have new chemical.

The only way u can tell is by serial numbers UPC or Model number.
By law they are required to update their # if the product has changed.
And most of them will change Sticker label too.

Else just get in contact with the manufacturer and ask them.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:38 AM   #12095
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Chip you have a PM.
Got it. Sent one back.
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:25 AM   #12096
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Just bought a new type r kit. I am switching after years of being beat by them at my track.

I have the layshaft ordered, is there anything else I need. Also with the flying fox shaft can I run any spur gear? Thanks for the help and any recommendations for the build up are helpful too.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:31 PM   #12097
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Originally Posted by Victory Side View Post
Just bought a new type r kit. I am switching after years of being beat by them at my track.

I have the layshaft ordered, is there anything else I need. Also with the flying fox shaft can I run any spur gear? Thanks for the help and any recommendations for the build up are helpful too.

I would get...

Two sway-bar sets
15# and 12# springs
A 1 deg. rear block
1/2 deg. and 1 deg. rear hubs
Rear turnbuckles for front standard camber link set-up.
Aluminum standard width wheel hexes
Spool pulley
XXX-S spool pads


Speaking of parts, IMO Losi needs to include the sway bars, spool pulley and aluminum hexes in the Type R kits to make it more attractive in the TC marketplace.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:34 PM   #12098
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Originally Posted by Chip73 View Post
Two Questions:

1 - What is the best way to lock up the front diff? I bought the car used, previous owner attempted to lock up the front diff but it is not staying locked, it loosens up after each race? To rebuild the diff will cost about $40 in new parts or I could buy the one way for $52. All I really want is to lock it for good. Flying Fox is out of stock.

JRX-S Spool pulley

And a new Diff hub
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:02 AM   #12099
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While I had my car apart for some rebuilding I thought I would post a pick of my current upper deck layout. This was tested with back to back runs on the weekend and proved to be very fast. Front posts only to increase the corner speed that you lose when the car has no supports, but the rest of the deck is pretty much guttered.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:06 AM   #12100
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
While I had my car apart for some rebuilding I thought I would post a pick of my current upper deck layout. This was tested with back to back runs on the weekend and proved to be very fast. Front posts only to increase the corner speed that you lose when the car has no supports, but the rest of the deck is pretty much guttered.
Nice belt tensioner.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:13 AM   #12101
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Nice belt tensioner.
It was a simple mod I did a while ago to reduce the belt skip under heavy braking. Its seem necessary with a 4.5 although recently I have found softer brakes produce faster race pace.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:50 AM   #12102
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:58 AM   #12103
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I like it!

Just a thought. Has anyone tried removing the middle screws on the underside of the rear bulkheads to create a little more flex? Will it actually do anything? Perhaps there's a way of cutting into the chassis to incorporate more flex when these screws are removed a la xray 07....
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #12104
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I like it!

Just a thought. Has anyone tried removing the middle screws on the underside of the rear bulkheads to create a little more flex? Will it actually do anything? Perhaps there's a way of cutting into the chassis to incorporate more flex when these screws are removed a la xray 07....
I tried that but as I have learned too much flex slows the chassis down. Also the rear bulkheads start floating above the deck when you put a battery in, not ideal.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:33 PM   #12105
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Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
I like it!

Just a thought. Has anyone tried removing the middle screws on the underside of the rear bulkheads to create a little more flex? Will it actually do anything? Perhaps there's a way of cutting into the chassis to incorporate more flex when these screws are removed a la xray 07....
Pretty interesting you should say that, but I've had a couple of mails with Lucas recently, and he mentioned that on his car, he now doesn't run the middle set of screws at all (the ones forward of the motor).

Quote:
One thing a always forget to mention is that I remove two screws under the rear bulkhead, the most forward. It makes the flex a bit longer and maked the car smother. Even if you (and I) think it is weired...
Basically lengthens the flex of the car, giving a bit more rear end.
I can see how that works, so going to try it out this weekend at halifax, along with pretty much starting from the same base setup as his Euro's 09.

Something interesting also to note, is that in the lower grip tracks at this years worlds and Euro's, he ended up running the roll centre's low, but spaced up... so putting that in the bank for West London

One final thing to point out... at the Euro's the pic of his car was with the JR link on that front. From how it's been described to me, in practise before the event, with the standard ball joint, the car was pretty inconsistent to drive, due to the low traction. With the JR on the front he could get it consistent.. but as the traction came up at the event, he struggled with speed until going back to the standard link... or as it was put to me;
Quote:
I then revert back to a standard link which made the car a lot faster and eventually easier to drive. So just stick with what you use at the moment (standard link) as it will always be better when it counts...
Cheers
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