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Old 06-14-2010, 04:39 PM   #11881
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Default One way bearings

Why do people convert to them? I remember in the old days, the VERY old days my Yokomo Dogfighter had one ways in the front. That car always pulled to the outside of the turns under power.
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:07 PM   #11882
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Why do people convert to them? I remember in the old days, the VERY old days my Yokomo Dogfighter had one ways in the front. That car always pulled to the outside of the turns under power.
Virtually no one runs one ways these days due to the performance increase in the sport. The spool is the hot ticket these days.
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:14 PM   #11883
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Hey Guys,

Just a quick one, race report from the 2nd national is up on the Horizon UK site.

http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon..._national.html

Yes, I was having some finger issues this weekend... both in the pits and on track... started off well wiping a corner off on the wall of champions on the very first lap of the weekend...
Still, Steve and Chris both had good results... shame we didn't spot Steve's PT issue before the last final

Cheers
Ed
Hey Ed...

I noticed in that article you had problems with the rear diff? Was this because it was picking up dirt?
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:51 AM   #11884
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Virtually no one runs one ways these days due to the performance increase in the sport. The spool is the hot ticket these days.
Can't you emulate a spool by overtightening the ft differential instead?
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:55 AM   #11885
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Hey Ed...

I noticed in that article you had problems with the rear diff? Was this because it was picking up dirt?
To be honest, I'm not entirely sure. CJ basically could get 4mins out of one before it started to go pepper grindy, not sure if that's a case of the balls chewing at the plates or something else.
Personally, my diff was ok, seemed to last fine on the first day, and I rebuilt it overnight and it lasted the second. Not saying it was perfect, but didn't nuke itself. Then again I'm running 10.5 vs 3.5.

I've got some ideas for improving the diff, took some measurements last night, see what we can do...

Ed
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:15 AM   #11886
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I also have a few spools on order from I believe Skyrocket, any idea when the next batch will come in? Thanks!
I couldn't be more apologetic for how long its taking. Unfortunately I had a last minute call up to once again disappear into oblivion again but I'm back and full steam ahead into getting the V2 spool finished. The good news will be that an improved spool and better outdrives will both be available very soon. I am biting the bullet and making a large enough quantity to be sure that no more delays will be experienced again.

I will talk to skyrocket(if he is still willing to talk to me) and discuss some kind of special deal for those that have had orders in and have been waiting so patiently. Something along the lines of a couple of sets of outdrives free with all existing pre orders.

Really can't wait to get it done and start work on some other ideas I have.
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:19 AM   #11887
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
To be honest, I'm not entirely sure. CJ basically could get 4mins out of one before it started to go pepper grindy, not sure if that's a case of the balls chewing at the plates or something else.
Personally, my diff was ok, seemed to last fine on the first day, and I rebuilt it overnight and it lasted the second. Not saying it was perfect, but didn't nuke itself. Then again I'm running 10.5 vs 3.5.

I've got some ideas for improving the diff, took some measurements last night, see what we can do...

Ed
Well here is how i build my diff for interest Tc5 plates but i grind one out so it is round. Followed by tc5 diff spring ( a must ) then associated carbide diff balls, followed by an after market ceramic thrust replacement which i get from rc market. Built with associated clear grease for the main balls and black grease for the thrust. Another interesting mod is glueing the slipper plate setup together this is my most free feeling diff and using heat shrink for the inside of the out drive which my brother ( dragonfire ) posted a couple of pages back. I can get 2 race meets out of 17.5 with this but i do prefer to rebuild unless the family side gives me a lack of time!! But still feels good after the second race meet only with the heatshrink though. Try this out you should like it.
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:57 AM   #11888
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Been putting off getting the slop/play out of my Type R's suspension but now it's gotten to the point that there are quite a few areas with about a mm of play. I need some shims but I would have never thought I would have some difficulty finding them, especially since most of the LHS cater mostly to nitro.

What are you guys using to get the slop out, especially the smaller outer 3/32hingepin area?
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:46 AM   #11889
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What are you guys using to get the slop out, especially the smaller outer 3/32hingepin area?
For this i use scrap body lexan. Drill a 3/32 hole through some then cut around the hole with lexan scissors. You can even sand it a bit thiner if you need to. PITA sure but couldn't find any shims thin enough.
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:08 AM   #11890
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Great idea! Thanks!

I knew all that scrap lexan that I saved from body cutouts was good for something!

I just gotta hope that my carpal tunnel doesn't act up while cutting out them shims lol.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:27 AM   #11891
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If you can still find them anywhere, Reedy used to put out packs of washers of different thicknesses for motor shims. Not sure if they are still being packaged or not since there is not the need for them like there used to be. They may be under the Associated name as well, it has been a really long time since I have bought any myself. I just had crap loads of them left from when I used to tune brushed motors.
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:30 AM   #11892
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That's exactly what I used...worked really well if you can find them!

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I...Reedy used to put out packs of washers of different thicknesses for motor shims...
Cheers,
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:41 AM   #11893
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
What are you guys using to get the slop out, especially the smaller outer 3/32hingepin area?
McMasterCarr has an assortment of shims.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:25 AM   #11894
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
For this i use scrap body lexan. Drill a 3/32 hole through some then cut around the hole with lexan scissors. You can even sand it a bit thiner if you need to. PITA sure but couldn't find any shims thin enough.
Tamiya do a 3mm shim set that works great for this. Pack comes with three different thickness' 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm. Fit fine on both the inner and outer hinge pins. I'll dig out the part # in a bit, but its on the build guide thread on my site (I updated it with three more sections last week... Bit more to go yet though!!)

On the diff front, I modded a tube last night to take a D-ring plate, and also drilled out a diff pulley to remove the clip parts in the holes... I have a hunch that they don't help the action in the slightest. I'm going to build it up for the weekend, and see how it feels.

@decibels; Cheers for the info on the diff spring though, been looking for another one... Not overly keen on the kit item, none of the ones I've had seem completely perpendicular, so introduces a high spot..

HiH
Ed
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Old 06-15-2010, 11:21 AM   #11895
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
Been putting off getting the slop/play out of my Type R's suspension but now it's gotten to the point that there are quite a few areas with about a mm of play. I need some shims but I would have never thought I would have some difficulty finding them, especially since most of the LHS cater mostly to nitro.

What are you guys using to get the slop out, especially the smaller outer 3/32hingepin area?
http://www.standard-gasket.com/plast...ers/index.html

I was going to resell them but someone beat me to it, they had a thread in the forsale for a while. They had a bunch of thickness and they worked great for me.
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