Originally Posted by Donny Lia
To answer that question, the move to Lipo.
I'm gonna be running this car as well guys. I ran one a couple years ago a handful of times and had great success with it. I am gonna try to get two cars going so I can do more testing with it. Do any of you have any tips or ideas or things you guys do to the cars different than the way it comes out of the box? Any help would be very appreciated and once I get the cars out there i'd gladly help in the setup department. Greg I know I mentioned this to you at Horsham and you were talking about something with the layshaft and the bearings? I don't remember exactly what it was though can you elaborate more?
Donny your layshafts are on the way.
My changes based on running w/ Schreff, Fairtrace, Sharpe, and a bunch of other fast Type-R guys, you prolly have most of these on your car already but i'll post up for the other newer Type-R guys.
1) move your ball stud on the steering link to the inner hole for more ackerman. Increases turn in.
2) place #4 washers underneath the ball stud in the steering knuckle this increases high speed steering (if i remember correctly may be wrong on the why, but it helps a ton!)
3) Change to camber links instead of jr links for rubber on asphalt. It increases camber gain.
4) Put a 3 or 4mm shim under the ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain. (i use the kyosho blue shims
i have these for salebut they aren't on the site yet)
5) use a longer neck ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain, careful w/ the type of wheels you have, Sweeps and Prisms are a little larger than RP and some others you can fit bigger shims. Be mindful that your ball stud doesn't rub on your rim
especially in 10.5 or better you WILL cut your rim.
5a) moving the ball stud to the outer hole gives you more rear traction, inner hole gives you more steering.
6) Check the tweak in your chassis after every 2 or three runs and Definitely before the mains (BMI chassis never tweaked btw). Loosen top deck screws and have someone help you push down on the shock towers on a flat surface and re tighten the screws.
7) maintain your diffs, this car is SUPER sensitive to diff action. You will lose all rear traction if that bearing in your diff is in bad shape or your thrust bearing is in bad shape. I use the mcmaster thrust and a ceramic center diff bearing. Paul Lemieux, Scooby, Fairtrace, Schreffler, Sharpe, DeWee all yelled at me about the crappiness of my diff
and how badly it was affecting the handling of my car.
Diff height makes a big difference, some like high some like low, but it makes a difference try it out.
Roll center makes a big difference, i run High front low rear because i like a car that pushes, but if you can handle a car that turns in hard go low and high.
Car changes directions quickly but it doesn't xfer weight to the wheels as quickly because of the center battery. Sweepers need to be driven hard and your car needs to be sprung softly on a sweeping track.
Shock mounting holes are the same as any other touring car move in for more traction out for less
Increase droop in 1/2 mm increments, you don't need much as i've found out the hard way.
It may sound like allot but honestly this is one of the easier cars i've owned to setup once you get used to it. For the most part the setup stays the same for various tracks and styles of racing, w/ minor changes to springs diff height and droop.