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Old 01-03-2010, 11:16 AM   #11236
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Tory, I like Fairtrace's setup from IIC 2007 as a baseline. Haynes setups are good too but on non-high bite typically club race conditions seem to be a bit harder to drive than Fairtraces, IMO.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/losi...sLosiJRXS.html
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:26 AM   #11237
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Tory, I like Fairtrace's setup from IIC 2007 as a baseline. Haynes setups are good too but on non-high bite typically club race conditions seem to be a bit harder to drive than Fairtraces, IMO.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/losi...sLosiJRXS.html
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:51 PM   #11238
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Yeah, it's just a little strip of lexan. Our transponder loop is a bridge, and the normal chassis position for transponders was causing low signal strength.
LOL I had this problem once before. I had a race meet at a track with a bridge rather than the loop under the track and was getting very low counts. It didn't help that I also had some lead stuck on top of my transponder!
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Old 01-03-2010, 05:08 PM   #11239
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Greg, you have a foam setup for 17.5 Type-R? I ran foams on my rubber setup and uh ... it wasn't really very pretty to watch ahahah.
No sorry, I got this car after foam had died.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:27 PM   #11240
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After years absent from TC. I just put my Type R back together and ran today.
I still loved it....
Here she is
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Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrxr1.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrxr2.jpg  
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:20 AM   #11241
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After years absent from TC. I just put my Type R back together and ran today.
I still loved it....
Here she is
Looks like its missing a flyingfox layshaft!
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:59 AM   #11242
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
that some interesting wiring going on your chassis, especialy for a PT, did you made a bracket or some?
Thats how he gets hot lap every week,,hehehe
On a serious note, Sharpes car is on rails..Good job
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:42 AM   #11243
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
I've been running the standard front camber link for a while, and just used that graphical roll-center calculator to find a JR-link setting with nearly identical total camber gain and static roll center. It will be interesting to see how the difference in roll center migration affects the car's ability to crash on my command.

As for ESC placement, I stand it up on the left when running a forward weight bias, but lay it down on the right when running 50/50 or rear weight bias.

This an outdoor setup? I notice no sway bars either.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:32 PM   #11244
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This an outdoor setup? I notice no sway bars either.
This is for indoor, CRC ozite carpet, Jack the Gripper ONLY, Jaco Blues. I had to remove the swaybars to avoid traction rolling a while back, but now that I've been glueing the sidewalls, I could probably try a front swaybar again. Here's the rest of the setup, same as the last one except for the increased camber gain all around:


Rui, how about you drive my car so it has a better chance of staying out front! Do I know how to FAIL or what?
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:48 PM   #11245
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This is for indoor, CRC ozite carpet, Jack the Gripper ONLY, Jaco Blues. I had to remove the swaybars to avoid traction rolling a while back, but now that I've been glueing the sidewalls, I could probably try a front swaybar again. Here's the rest of the setup, same as the last one except for the increased camber gain all around:


Rui, how about you drive my car so it has a better chance of staying out front! Do I know how to FAIL or what?

How do you measure your droop? Do you use the Losi tool and measure 7mm, or do you use blocks and measure it that way? Do you measure to the axle pin? Everyone does it differently.

Also, do you have a link to that roll center calc?

thanks,;
Chris

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Old 01-04-2010, 02:40 PM   #11246
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How do you measure your droop? Do you use the Losi tool and measure 7mm, or do you use blocks and measure it that way? Do you measure to the axle pin? Everyone does it differently.

Also, do you have a link to that roll center calc?

thanks,;
Chris
Set your ride height then raise the chassis until the wheels just lift off the table and measure it again. Check the difference and thats your droop. So in Greg's case 5.5 ride height, lift and it reads 7.5 and it give him 2mm of droop
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:49 PM   #11247
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That Jackson RC outdoor track is very nice. I have a family member that just moved about 30 miles from there. I think I'm going to have to go for a visit!
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:01 PM   #11248
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Thats how he gets hot lap every week,,hehehe
On a serious note, Sharpes car is on rails..Good job
then only way others to beat his type-R is having 2 PT mounted on their car., yeah I heard Greg doing great with his car at the Sharm.

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I ran the JR-Link last night, and can say without a doubt that it hit the line far more consistently. The roll center calculator showed that using the lower outer pin and #3 inner ball stud location provided the same instantaneous roll center and total camber gain as the standard link with a long outer ball stud and the #1 inner ball stud position. I ran that a few times, but the ESC war has been pushing our 17.5 class to ever faster speeds so I went looking for more front traction. I then ran it in the higher outer position (above the C-hub) and the lowest/longest inner position (#3 on the front shock tower). I was able to run right at my fast lap more often with this, and I couldn't find anything bad about it. (FYI- this was indoor rubber tire with jack the gripper)
Yeah, it's just a little strip of lexan. Our transponder loop is a bridge, and the normal chassis position for transponders was causing low signal strength.
yes #3 with high on a JR link is about as same as reg camber rod set up, but it gain camber in more linear motion, makes it more consistant. I been using a JR link this summer at the Jackson while everybody else giving me funny look about it.

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Looks like its missing a flyingfox layshaft!
and a 1PC spool! you gotta have both!
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:09 PM   #11249
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Set your ride height then raise the chassis until the wheels just lift off the table and measure it again. Check the difference and thats your droop. So i Greg's case 5.5 ride height, lift and it reads 7.5 and it give him 2mm of drop

I understand droop and how to adjust it, but was wondering what everyones preference is measuring it? Personally hold the car up with your hand and then trying to accurately measure droop is not very accurate, but I guess close enough for some!
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:11 PM   #11250
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I haven't been able to get a low roll center car to work on rubber tires for me. Guess it's just driving preferences.
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