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Old 12-23-2009, 11:50 AM   #11161
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Originally Posted by Belty Dog View Post
I allways use Jr link (I try std. link but don't like). The question, (for me and my drive style) is that the hole #3 give too many high roll center; #4 give too many low roll center, so with #3 position but 2 mm more longher link.......... you should be obtain the halfway
ciao ciao
I dremeled #1 and 3 together and ran a camber rod in between but didnt see much diffrence, I just run #3 all the time and adjust outer part of the Jr link (high & Low)

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Heat treated the metal? Please share!

http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/heat.html this link and many other pages are available on the web, basically torched them and aged them in a oven with the chacoal then liquid cool them.
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:43 PM   #11162
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I dremeled #1 and 3 together and ran a camber rod in between but didnt see much diffrence, I just run #3 all the time and adjust outer part of the Jr link (high & Low)
I used to run 3 all the time with low roll centers and now I run 1 with high. I don't use the JR link anymore so I can just shim the outer ball stud up higher for more or less camber gain (slightly tweaking roll center).

Maybe the best system would be removing the inner link section of the tower and replacing it with a bolt-on alloy block that offered 3-4 overlapping positions. This system would allow you to choose the length and space up or down to choose the amount of camber gain. Its basically what all the top chassis use anyway. Something that would give us the equivalent of the inner link setup on the cyclone pic below.



A new part to allow this would result in the option for longer links than currently available and finer tuning options. I would say that it would involve you removing the current section off the tower we use now. It would be interesting to play with a longer link and see if it improves the car as we generally have that option now with the jr-link and I think it is slower. Still finer movement up and down would be very very sweet.
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Old 12-23-2009, 02:42 PM   #11163
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Its funny but as far as I know all of that stuff is on the list of things to do except the LCD's which in my opinion are fantastic. I'm not sure how you are killing them but I race mod and they last better than anything else I have ever had including xray.

On the subject of the diff... What we really need is a whole new design for the diff that runs the diff pulley on a bearing, keeps dirt out, and has a d-ring style setup for both diff plates. Unfortunatley the design of the chassis makes all this very hard to achieve without making a whole new diff design from scratch. This means all new parts which will prolly make the unit cost more than it is worth. It is a real pain of a problem to fix.
Yeah mines runs fine too.
-I agreed with some sort of belt tensioners. My belts gets a bit sloppy after Long runs.
-Diff Covers or something to protect it from dirt would be nice
-I like the flex as it is almost no flex
-i would like to see the inner pulleys away from my battery so i dont have modify my batts from preventing it from grinding.
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:36 PM   #11164
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Maybe the best system would be removing the inner link section of the tower and replacing it with a bolt-on alloy block that offered 3-4 overlapping positions. This system would allow you to choose the length and space up or down to choose the amount of camber gain. Its basically what all the top chassis use anyway. Something that would give us the equivalent of the inner link setup on the cyclone pic below.



A new part to allow this would result in the option for longer links than currently available and finer tuning options. I would say that it would involve you removing the current section off the tower we use now. It would be interesting to play with a longer link and see if it improves the car as we generally have that option now with the jr-link and I think it is slower. Still finer movement up and down would be very very sweet.
Perhaps I'm imagining your concept incorrectly, but isn't there a big fat pulley in the way on our Type-Rs? Besides, what's wrong with using the JRLink? It can be flipped, shimmed and relocated into any of the 4 existing holes on the shock tower, which is more than a dozen variations.
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Old 12-24-2009, 03:32 AM   #11165
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Happy hollidays to you guys
See you next year
ciao ciao
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Old 12-24-2009, 05:53 AM   #11166
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Happy Holidays!
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:02 AM   #11167
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Happy Holidays!
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:01 AM   #11168
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Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all fellow racers. Wish you the best in the new year!
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:12 AM   #11169
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Happy Holidays, Type Rers.
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Old 12-24-2009, 05:21 PM   #11170
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Default type R for sale

Losi JRXS TYPE R for sale w/ parts lot
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Old 12-25-2009, 05:56 PM   #11171
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Well anyone get some cool r/c stuff?
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Old 12-26-2009, 02:05 PM   #11172
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didn't get any RC stuff for the holidays from my wife, but I did get myself another new JRXS-R! I now will have a full kit for backup, one 17.5 and one RCGT car... woohoo!
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Old 12-26-2009, 02:50 PM   #11173
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any word on a new or upgraded Losi touring car? Looking for a new Electric Sedan for 2010...i was interested in this car, but im hearing its done as far as development is concerned...
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:30 AM   #11174
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No new car,but this one is very competitive you wont be disappointed.
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:38 AM   #11175
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I hear skyrocket is coming out with a few new things to improve the car. The car is just as fast as any car out on the market but cheaper.
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