R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-23-2009, 08:30 PM   #11011
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,202
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Some stuff I would try: rear bar, low rear diff, lower front spindle ballstud, .195 rear hex, 4a or 1a rear link with no spacer, rear shock 2, and you should be able to run around 2mm for droop
__________________
Thanks to pops

TLR, Fantom, Horizon, Spektrum, Trackside
Brian L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 11:12 PM   #11012
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf JRXS-R_Oz_titles_09_SORMCC.pdf (475.7 KB, 124 views)
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 05:37 AM   #11013
Tech Regular
 
JRXS_chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester, England
Posts: 386
Default

I'm still confused as to what you guys refer to as droop, mainly how you measure it.

The way I see it is if you add/increase droop you are making the suspension arms 'sag/drop' more. Is this correct or is that decreasing droop?

Also what are you using to measure? Are you using the Losi gauge that comes in the kit? If so, when 2mm for example is quoted is that at 2 on the gauge??

JRXS_chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 07:58 AM   #11014
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,297
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Since Rui defected, you are welcome to take his spot in the Losi camp. See you next time.
Why do you treat me this way??
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Reds Racing USA|Hot Race Tyres USA|Team CRC|Team Trinity|
Jackson RC|Horsham RC|Floyd Bennett|Blue Diamond
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 08:12 AM   #11015
Tech Fanatic
 
jrxs-r's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 831
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.
Congrats Troy! How did you find the high roll centers? Couldn't make it this year as work is way to busy for me to take time off... hopefully next year!
__________________
Cheers,
Zack
___________________________________________________________________________
Proudly Sponsored by Stanbridges Hobbies
Serpent S411
jrxs-r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 09:08 AM   #11016
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.
good job! 40c air temp!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
I'm still confused as to what you guys refer to as droop, mainly how you measure it.

The way I see it is if you add/increase droop you are making the suspension arms 'sag/drop' more. Is this correct or is that decreasing droop?

Also what are you using to measure? Are you using the Losi gauge that comes in the kit? If so, when 2mm for example is quoted is that at 2 on the gauge??

we measured droop over riding height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Why do you treat me this way??
Ru------i who? wrong forum dude.






J/K sup Rui! how are you.
__________________
SweepRacingUSA.com 2014 &2015 US. NATIONAL CHAMPION!
10th Buggy F1 TC 8th Buggy 8th Truggy GT8 M-Chassis Monster Truck(SRC) Bodies&Wings
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 10:32 AM   #11017
Tech Elite
 
Greg Sharpe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Snowbird Nationals
Posts: 3,206
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
I'm still confused as to what you guys refer to as droop, mainly how you measure it.

The way I see it is if you add/increase droop you are making the suspension arms 'sag/drop' more. Is this correct or is that decreasing droop?

Also what are you using to measure? Are you using the Losi gauge that comes in the kit? If so, when 2mm for example is quoted is that at 2 on the gauge??

Your assumption is correct, adding droop makes the arms sag lower as the suspension is unloaded. In my case, I am measuring droop with a standard ride height gauge. I simply note the static ride height, 5.5mm in the rear of my car, then I hold both tires down while lifting the chassis up hard against the droop screws. In a feat of pinky finger wizardry, I slide the ride height under the chassis to measure it again (8mm for example). The droop is simply the difference between static ride height and the fully unloaded measurement, 2.5mm in this case.

I don't use the kit droop gauge because my old ass car has too much slop in the various suspension components. If the car had new, slop-free components, it would be more accurate to use the kit droop gauge, as the tires would not introduce any discrepencies into the measurement IMO.
__________________
If only endurance racing was a thing.
Greg Sharpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 10:38 AM   #11018
Tech Elite
 
Greg Sharpe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Snowbird Nationals
Posts: 3,206
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L View Post
Some stuff I would try: rear bar, low rear diff, lower front spindle ballstud, .195 rear hex, 4a or 1a rear link with no spacer, rear shock 2, and you should be able to run around 2mm for droop
The rear bar doesn't work in this instance, as we've been doing the opposite by adding droop. Thanks for the other suggestions, I'll let you (and everyone) know how it turns out next Saturday.
__________________
If only endurance racing was a thing.
Greg Sharpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 01:24 PM   #11019
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
Congrats Troy! How did you find the high roll centers? Couldn't make it this year as work is way to busy for me to take time off... hopefully next year!
Its amazing how well the high roll centers and no JR link worked with a little chassis flex. It basically brought the car to "life" with crazy response into and out of turns. The most notable change on the car though was the reduction of rear toe which let the car rotate so much faster. That was a fine balancing act to keep the car straight and go fast.

Prolly the biggest achivement for this chassis though was my brothers 1st outing with it at this event. I couldn't 100% duplicate my setup direction with his chassis at this stage but 1st time out and he finished 15th in stock (17.5). Not bad for someone who has raced less than 10 times. I personally belive he had the fastest stock car on the track as I personally did many mid to low 19 second laps with it on the practice day while all the stock boys where trying to figure out how to get into the 19's in the hot weather. His diff held up fine in the dusty conditions running all weekend without a rebuild.

Anyway I need to do a little more testing to find a BASE SETUP for the current chassis config. I'll post it when I have it sorted. Note you may need my upper deck mod to get the best out my setups.

Droop: I measure droop as suspension down travel over ride height. In other words its how far the suspension moves down as you lift the chassis upwards. I don't think its important as to how you measure this (I use setup wheels for droop and ride height and calculate from there) as long as you can measure it correctly. In essence droop "limits" how far your chassis can transfer weight from one end or side to the other. Running lots of droop will allow your chassis to "roll" to a greater degree if sufficient force is applied. Running minimal droop will prevent your chassis from rolling even under large loads with soft springs/swaybars. Like all setup components its up to you to find the settings and characteristics that best suit your track and driving style.
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 02:21 PM   #11020
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
............ I am measuring droop with a standard ride height gauge.

what standard ride hieght gauge?

a Truggy gauge?

__________________
SweepRacingUSA.com 2014 &2015 US. NATIONAL CHAMPION!
10th Buggy F1 TC 8th Buggy 8th Truggy GT8 M-Chassis Monster Truck(SRC) Bodies&Wings
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 02:23 PM   #11021
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

edited
__________________
SweepRacingUSA.com 2014 &2015 US. NATIONAL CHAMPION!
10th Buggy F1 TC 8th Buggy 8th Truggy GT8 M-Chassis Monster Truck(SRC) Bodies&Wings
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 02:23 PM   #11022
Tech Champion
 
Kwikvdub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 5,947
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Kwikvdub
Default

__________________
Alex Valdes

TQRacing / 360 v2 RC Raceway
Kwikvdub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 03:18 PM   #11023
Tech Master
 
jkirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,223
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Its amazing how well the high roll centers and no JR link worked with a little chassis flex. It basically brought the car to "life" with crazy response into and out of turns. The most notable change on the car though was the reduction of rear toe which let the car rotate so much faster. That was a fine balancing act to keep the car straight and go fast.
...
I've been running high roll centers all around for the past 6-8 mo. I've even experimented pushing them another .30 and .60" but found no noticeable improvement in lap time with doing that. I also use the short (non-JR) link on the front. I've used this setup indoor and out. The only thing I've been changing from track to track is rear sway bar off or on, and then front springs. I typically run 12.5 lb spring all around but if the front of the car is dumping out under braking causing a push going into the turn I will go to 15 or 17.5 lb spring. I find my setups to be very easy on tires and I usually will get a few more golden runs off a set.

The thing I like most about the high roll centers is the feel I get out of the corners. It's like the car just squares up and goes where a low roll center car for me always seems to stay into the corner too much for my liking.

I do think turning circle should be looked at when running high roll centers more so than the tradition setups. I typically run about a 1 meter turning circle.
__________________
SMC Racing | AKA Products | Serpent America | Android Nitro Runtime Calculator
jkirkwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 01:30 PM   #11024
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I've been running high roll centers all around for the past 6-8 mo. I've even experimented pushing them another .30 and .60" but found no noticeable improvement in lap time with doing that. I also use the short (non-JR) link on the front. I've used this setup indoor and out. The only thing I've been changing from track to track is rear sway bar off or on, and then front springs. I typically run 12.5 lb spring all around but if the front of the car is dumping out under braking causing a push going into the turn I will go to 15 or 17.5 lb spring. I find my setups to be very easy on tires and I usually will get a few more golden runs off a set.

The thing I like most about the high roll centers is the feel I get out of the corners. It's like the car just squares up and goes where a low roll center car for me always seems to stay into the corner too much for my liking.

I do think turning circle should be looked at when running high roll centers more so than the tradition setups. I typically run about a 1 meter turning circle.
I plan to try some very soft springs next time I get out to play. I agree with you that the car is very "square" with the high rollcenters which did allow me to run very little rear toe in (2 degrees). I always run steering lock at maximum (filed knuckles) and just use what I need. This does however make the car less forgiving to drive so it depends on how much steering you can handle. If you don't run a lot of steering lock I suggest you try less ackerman for more steering everywhere.
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 08:29 PM   #11025
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

Kirkwood,
are you still running the spool? I tried the spool with the 12.5 springs and could not get it to work. I keep going back to the old diff. I did find that the changes to improve lap times with the diff. The only issue it is a bit more difficult to drive. I did not use that setup the last time we raced (did not have time).
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
[FS] Team Losi JRXS-Type R squarehead R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 07-21-2012 12:59 AM
Team Losi JRXS Type R gtxpro2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 18 09-11-2008 08:45 PM
WTB: Team Losi JRXS Type R shifter R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 07-03-2008 03:30 PM
Team Losi JRXS TYPE-R John Q R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 10-03-2007 06:55 PM
Team Losi JRXS Type R New In Box Canyon R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 06-20-2007 04:50 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:55 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0