SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

thats for damn sure, I m not comparing my tires to his, I got the idea from it, cause many said Jaco blue tended to create a inside ring very quickly.

after I switched to Jrlink I had a less ring with same chassis, same john doe driving skill

with proper assembly and maintenance Jrlink shoud be consider as another tuning option for us.

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

Tried to post the roll centre calculator zip file, but it is over the 200 kilobyte limit..

Here is the link again.. I tested it and it works fine..

http://www.mediafire.com/file/4m4tgm...CentreV162.zip

Hyper_Mike

iTrader: (8)

Firstly, thank you to those who responded to my post last week about thoughts on the pros/cons of the JRXS-R vs. TM E4.

After much research and thought I've decided I'm going to get a JRXS-R to get back into Touring Car.

I was hoping those of you in the know could give a me a list of "must-haves" to go along with the kit itself. So far I'm thinking:

Steel Lipo tray
PRS Adapter or Flying Fox layshaft
a few sets of different springs (for rubber on carpet)
Spool and/or One-way
Front/Rear arms

Anything else that you'd suggest?

Cheers,
Mike

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

With all the talk of new lower weight limits i wouldn't bother with the steel tray unless you don't care about f/r balance. the FF layshaft and spool are great, and also grab a few spare knuckles/c-hubs/rear uprights. Even the best of us stick it in the wall from time to time.

Run the car with your choice setup and then work out what other bits you want/need based on how the chassis works for you. It is very capable out of the box.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The Parma Hard front bumper. Saves you on front arms.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

Swaybars and all of the hex adaptors (3 widths made by Losi). I too wouldn't bother buying the steel tray, as it weighs down the middle of the car, but many setups favor a bit more front weight.

l.urbain

Hi guys !

I'd like to make a little point about the ring that apears on the tires.
I also had this problem on my first races with the type R. At this time I always used the JRLink (because I had never tried a regular link) with 2° of camber as I always did with my former cars.

Then I just tried to reduce the camber and it just made the car better, more front grip and more steering everywhere. That shows the tire works better like this (I mean flatter). I think tire wear is a good indication of how the suspension is working. You wouldn't even need a bench to set the camber, a look at your tire is enough. I usually set my camber between 0.5° and 1° both front and rear, it's strange but that's the way it works.

Now I almost always use a regular link on both carpet and asphalt tracks, it gives more steering at corner entry and at corner exit as well. With the regular link I still have those rings on the tires but it only apears after 4 or 5 runs. But tires don't all react the same. I mainly have this issue with sorex tires which are those we have to use in France

Lucas.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

cool Lucas, congrats on French cup! yes even tire wear is what I'm after on camber set up.

I been running your flex chassis set in stock class (17.5/13.5), I had too much initial steering with a camber link, that leead me to the Jrlink for less camber gain. 4-5 runs in modified class with a set of Sorex ! nice!

talk to you soon

jrxs-r

iTrader: (11)

Don't forget to cut the axles down as they do stick out past the wheel nuts a fair bit. This will save you breaking stuff if you do brush a pipe.

TillRodsFly

Sorry, I didn't read through all 711 pages so this may have already been answered. Can anyone tell me what the wheelbase is of this car? I have searched but can't find anything on it.

If I have read is correct, I think it is adjustable, if so, can someone tell me the total wheelbase ranges? I.E. 257mm-262mm ect....not that you can adjust it 3mm.....

Thanks!

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

Mike, its nice to see that you decided to go with the type-r. In addition to the arms, I would suggest c-hubs. I would suggest the steel tray to ensure that you make the 1500g weight limit. Or purchase the weights that go into the battery slots, re: rcmushroom. I have the steel tray and like it because the battery never falls out.

The last Airdrie outing, one guy had his lipo fall out 2/3 times. That is a major piss off in my eyes, nothing worse when it happens during a race.

Lastly if you want to combine on some mail orders, let me know.

morris

iTrader: (44)

its been a year since running the car.just wondering if there are any changes to what lipo to use.i actually will be buying another type-r.last car i had i had to do a bunch of dremeling to make the lipo i had work in there...do you guys know if losi hardcase lipo is a direct fit?

lmk and thx,
matt

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Matt

the thunder power packs fit with out any mods to the car. I always ran the 5000 40c pack in my cars.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

The Thunder Power and their cousins the Fantom Racing 40c will fit without modificaiton.

The Flying Fox layshaft will allow you to use some other lipo's as well as it widens the clearance in the rear of the battery compartment by a little.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Parts are in from Australia! Guys I'm working now to get these things out to the post office as quick as earthly possible!!

You will all get emails with the status's of your particular order. Thanks again for your patience.