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Old 09-12-2009, 11:38 AM   #10516
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Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
You do not have to remove the the four stand off screws to get it to work on asphalt. It works just fine with the screws where they belong. If you need flex to get the car to work then your setup is off.

There are at least four people running Type R's I know of running the car at IIC. Myself in 13.5 rubber and foam. Friend of mine from SLC running it in 13.5 rubber and Mod rubber. Two guys from Maui running in 17.5 amatuer class. These are the only R's I am aware of at IIC.
Good luck at the race!

car works good on asphalt no dought but car feel more planted with out 4 srews.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:51 PM   #10517
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Hi guys, I've been snooping on here for a bit since I got my R from ebay three weeks ago. I like it A LOT more than the S. I could never get the old car to lose its on power rear kickout, the new car seems to be planted much better. John, I tried your setup from last weekend today for my first race with the car but I opted to use the front diff as the track I raced on had hairpins at 5 of the 7 turns and was ultra tight for an outdoor asphalt track. Second fastest lap, Tq'd and won the main. Jaco blues didn't seem to come alive until two minutes or so into the run but when they did...Woa!

just a note: I stripped the special servo horn and the shop didnt have any in stock. If this happens to anyone else, 1.25" aluminum dynamite horn will work if you turn the ballcup 90deg. The top deck needs a tiny bit of clearance too but not much. Also loosen the servo saver a bit.
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Old 09-12-2009, 04:24 PM   #10518
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Hi guys, I've been snooping on here for a bit since I got my R from ebay three weeks ago. I like it A LOT more than the S. I could never get the old car to lose its on power rear kickout, the new car seems to be planted much better. John, I tried your setup from last weekend today for my first race with the car but I opted to use the front diff as the track I raced on had hairpins at 5 of the 7 turns and was ultra tight for an outdoor asphalt track. Second fastest lap, Tq'd and won the main. Jaco blues didn't seem to come alive until two minutes or so into the run but when they did...Woa!

just a note: I stripped the special servo horn and the shop didnt have any in stock. If this happens to anyone else, 1.25" aluminum dynamite horn will work if you turn the ballcup 90deg. The top deck needs a tiny bit of clearance too but not much. Also loosen the servo saver a bit.
hey welcome to club R~

I ended up 500 oil, outside shock tower hole on front. with a Sorex 32.

good catch on the servo horm, do you have a part # for that?
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:36 PM   #10519
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No I threw away the tag already. The right side (when it steers right) needs trimming on the top deck. You'll also need to use a short neck ball stud on the bellcrank arm. It's a quick fix though, I can't say that it wont cause stress to another area of the steering during an impact.

I would post a picture but I havnt made enough posts apparently,
heres a link to copy and paste to the one I used.

rcware.com/images/Hanger9.jpg
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:41 PM   #10520
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No I threw away the tag already. The right side (when it steers right) needs trimming on the top deck. You'll also need to use a short neck ball stud on the bellcrank arm. It's a quick fix though, I can't say that it wont cause stress to another area of the steering during an impact.

I would post a picture but I havnt made enough posts apparently,
heres a link to copy and paste to the one I used.

rcware.com/images/Hanger9.jpg
hmm that url is not working
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #10521
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sor, you might have to add the www the forum was still giving me errors trying to post a link.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:15 PM   #10522
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sor, you might have to add the www the forum was still giving me errors trying to post a link.
http://www.rcware.com/images/Hanger9.jpg
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:13 PM   #10523
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The IP5000 needs major surgery to fit with steel tray and some for plastic one
well , it seemed to need less than the other batteries I tried with the similar capacities. Offer your opinion to help us out.
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:34 PM   #10524
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Hi guys, I ran the car on asphalt today and it felt good.. Started off with soft springs, and decided to move to stiffer ones. Result, the side bit was up, but the outside edge of the jaco blues (rim) got beat up pretty good.

I set the car with negative 1 camber on the front, (with ballstud) and zero on the rear. Both the front and rear had the same result.. I will try to take a photo.

The tires were old to begin with, but I say I got the most I could out of them.. Track layout, 2 hairpins, two chicans, large sweeper, and a second smaller sweeper.

I found the car to be fast in certain sections, but my setup didn't leave too much room for error, specialy when you need to recover if you overshot a corner.

I asked questions about running the thrust bearing without the cage and one advised that the balls could eventually move away from the grove on the washer. I thought that this was a valid point, anyone have issues with this?
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:26 AM   #10525
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Hi guys, I ran the car on asphalt today and it felt good.. Started off with soft springs, and decided to move to stiffer ones. Result, the side bit was up, but the outside edge of the jaco blues (rim) got beat up pretty good.

I set the car with negative 1 camber on the front, (with ballstud) and zero on the rear. Both the front and rear had the same result.. I will try to take a photo.

The tires were old to begin with, but I say I got the most I could out of them.. Track layout, 2 hairpins, two chicans, large sweeper, and a second smaller sweeper.

I found the car to be fast in certain sections, but my setup didn't leave too much room for error, specialy when you need to recover if you overshot a corner.

I asked questions about running the thrust bearing without the cage and one advised that the balls could eventually move away from the grove on the washer. I thought that this was a valid point, anyone have issues with this?
If the balls on the thrust bearing fall out of the groove then you have bigger problems than losing some balls. Try the xray or McMaster thrust bearings for a better solution to the kit unit.
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:16 AM   #10526
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I set the car with negative 1 camber on the front, (with ballstud) and zero on the rear. Both the front and rear had the same result.. I will try to take a photo.
Yeah, I've never had any luck running as low as 1deg of camber. Try going to 2deg and work through the setup that way.
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:39 AM   #10527
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I typically run 1.5 to 2.25 deg of camber. I can feel small changes of camber on this car pretty easily. If you add some camber front and rear I think you car will get instantly better.
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:51 AM   #10528
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well , it seemed to need less than the other batteries I tried with the similar capacities. Offer your opinion to help us out.
Fantom/Thunderpower, or even Checkpoint. They all fit without modifications.

The other issue is there are 2 production runs of the steel tray. The second run has a bigger "pocket" or cutout in it than the first gen tray other than measuring the thickness of the sidewall of your tray it's kinda hard to tell what version of it you have.

If you have a first gen tray i'd suggest finding someone to machine away just a little bit more material from the inside of the "pocket" to make it a little more lipo friendly.
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:57 AM   #10529
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Hey all.... Just finished WA's annual A1 Signs Classic race held in Bunbury. Track is outdoor asphalt, slightly coarse, and its shared with nitro cars too. The Type R ran like a dream all weekend, pity about the driver though... I TQ'd the TC10.5 qualifiers with the nearest driver approximately 4 secs away to put me on pole position for the 3 finals.....

This is where the gremlins started coming into play...

Final 1 - I jumped the start, receiving a stop-go penalty, dropping to 5th or 6th position. Decided to put my head down and try to recover as many places as I could, and ended up in 3rd place, 4-5 secs off the leader.

Final 2 - Had a clean start to the second final, and built up about a 2 second lead about halfway into the race. Came up on a couple of backmarkers, and just my luck I got taken out by accident. It was a pretty big smash, with cars everywhere! Came out of the smash in 2nd position, with 3rd place a car length behind. Noticed a slight wheel wobble on the straights, and right in the middle of the second last corner, the wheel decided to run the race of its own and left the hub! Luckily I was running the Flying Fox spool, and limped it through the last corner netting myself a 4th place....

Final 3 - Awesome start, came flying through the first corner and after the second corner, I never looked back! Set the quickest lap of the day, and the fastest time of the day too (by over 4 secs). Car had a very direct feel to it, and I could almost place it anywhere on the track where I wanted to.


Ran the car with all the chassis screws in it, and I think the setup was spot on. Will post my setup as soon as I have cleaned it up and taken a few measurements.
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:25 AM   #10530
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I asked questions about running the thrust bearing without the cage and one advised that the balls could eventually move away from the grove on the washer. I thought that this was a valid point, anyone have issues with this?

I've been wanting to chime in on this, This was the way that trust bearings have been assembled since diffs showed up in rc cars. I first saw a cage in the Bk and MF XXX cars and thought "pretty sweet". The jrx-r 's was the first time I heard of it blowing up. As far as the balls moving away from the grove, back in the day without the cages, they didn't even have a grove in the washers. Theres an incredible amount of pressure on the balls, as long as the cylinder that contains them has tight tolerances they wont go anywhere.
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