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Old 09-06-2009, 03:55 AM   #10426
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Originally Posted by Spillertwo View Post
Hello MaxRain,

Interesting stuff you are talking about but what do you mean when you say "taking the cage" ?
Maybe you could post some pictures of the mod to make it clear ?

Still looking myself how to make these diffs good and last longer.

Thanks :-)
Basically he has just removed the thrust balls from the cage and added a few extra to fill in the gaps. You need to use some grease to hold everything together during assembly I have tried this and it does work ok but an xray thrust is better again. I have yet to try the McMaster thrust but that will be interesting too. I have a couple of after market xray ceramic thrust bearings on the way. They are the same design as the stock thrust but with ceramic balls. They should be here in the next couple of days so I'll let you know how they feel. One of the best things you can do with your diff is go out and get some TC5 diff balls for it, they are fantastic.
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:02 AM   #10427
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Basically he has just removed the thrust balls from the cage and added a few extra to fill in the gaps. You need to use some grease to hold everything together during assembly I have tried this and it does work ok but an xray thrust is better again. I have yet to try the McMaster thrust but that will be interesting too. I have a couple of after market xray ceramic thrust bearings on the way. They are the same design as the stock thrust but with ceramic balls. They should be here in the next couple of days so I'll let you know how they feel. One of the best things you can do with your diff is go out and get some TC5 diff balls for it, they are fantastic.
Dragonfire explained this correctly. I would take a photo of the "cage" but unfortunatetly I put it in the garbage. Basically the tiny little balls cut thru the wall of the holder and connected two pre-cut holes.

Thinking about the TC5 balls, download the manual and you will see what I am talking about as I think this is the way the thrust bearing is built.

I am also curious about these diff balls. The kit thrust bearing balls are 1/16" (1.5875 millimeters) and the TC5 are 5/64" (1.984375 millimeters). Do they fit closer together?
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Last edited by MaxRain; 09-07-2009 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:32 AM   #10428
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Okay now it's completely clear to me :-)
Had the TC3 long time ago and still remember that diff, so no problem.
I think i even have some TC3 diff balls somewhere to try this mod. Will give it a go.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:40 AM   #10429
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Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post


...omissis...

I am also curious about these diff balls. The kit thrust bearing balls are 1/16" (1.5875 millimeters) and the TC5 are 5/64" (1.984375 millimeters). Do they fit closer together?
Hi.
With #9 5/64" (or 2 millimiters) ceramic balls, the thrust bearing work really great.
Again, if you switch from steel spring to cone washer is better too
ciao ciao
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:45 AM   #10430
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What type of shims are being used to adjust the roll center between the high and low settings? I see .05 and .03, is this being done by just washers?

Jared, Good job on your asphalt win!
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:52 AM   #10431
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What type of shims are being used to adjust the roll center between the high and low settings? I see .05 and .03, is this being done by just washers?

Jared, Good job on your asphalt win!


You can use any common washers. I personally use old brushed motor washers. I run .030 Anti Squat and those brass shims work well....
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:47 PM   #10432
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Thanks for the info.

What is the deal with cutting every other tooth off of the belt? Does it free up the car that much more?
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:22 PM   #10433
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We use to do that with the XXXS but the JRXS drive train is so free and the belts are some of the best on the market. I don't think it's worth the time doing that.

Last edited by jkirkwood; 09-08-2009 at 06:52 AM. Reason: corrected spelling
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:33 PM   #10434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
Dragonfire explained this correctly. I would take a photo of the "cage" but unfortunatetly I put it in the garbage. Basically the tiny little balls cut thru the wall of the holder and connected two pre-cut holes.

Thinking about the TC5 balls, download the manual and you will see what I am talking about as I think this is the way the thrust bearing is built.

I am also curious about these diff balls. The kit thrust bearing balls are 1/16" (1.5875 millimeters) and the TC5 are 5/64" (1.984375 millimeters). Do they fit closer together?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo View Post
Okay now it's completely clear to me :-)
Had the TC3 long time ago and still remember that diff, so no problem.
I think i even have some TC3 diff balls somewhere to try this mod. Will give it a go.
I just took all the team driver's advice and ran the mcmaster carr thrustbearings. They have a cage and i have the same ones in my cars from last season and my diffs are still smooth when I do a rebuild. I have them up on the site now for those who are out of the usa.

I still have to work on the international shipping module in my webshop. Ignore the pricing you get from it .. i think it is in league with the post office it quotes some crazy prices for shipping overseas.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:11 AM   #10435
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I have some of these McMaster bearings on order from skyrocketbatteries (Tory) so i will test these very soon i hope :-)

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I just took all the team driver's advice and ran the mcmaster carr thrustbearings. They have a cage and i have the same ones in my cars from last season and my diffs are still smooth when I do a rebuild. I have them up on the site now for those who are out of the usa.

I still have to work on the international shipping module in my webshop. Ignore the pricing you get from it .. i think it is in league with the post office it quotes some crazy prices for shipping overseas.
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Old 09-08-2009, 04:04 PM   #10436
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I just wrote requesting running change on losi forum regarding LCD and RCD axle pin hole placement, i already mentioned this on my blog about aluminium wheel hex adaptor issue and i thought that was my fault as i wrote here


I spent over $30 thought I made a mistake and bought all new hexes and new wheel nuts about a month ago

but this happened again today!

Then I realized this never happened on my xxx-s before, which shares same hubs and bearings.

I measured them side by side and found hole is drilled little bit closer on the type-r as pictured below




This is how to check if you are having a same issue
  1. remove hub carrier from the arm
  2. mount a wheel on a axle as you normally would and lock nut as you always do.
  3. spin the wheel, if it feel grindy or even locked then go to following link and make your voice heard.
  4. the link for losi forum to todd hodge,
I dont think we can fix this problem or ask other manufactures to make one for us, this is something must done by the Losi.

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Old 09-08-2009, 04:41 PM   #10437
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I have found lightly sanding the back of the allum. hexes really helps solve the grinding feeling. After I started doing this there ultra smooth feeling now on front.......
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Old 09-08-2009, 04:46 PM   #10438
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I have found lightly sanding the back of the allum. hexes really helps solve the grinding feeling. After I started doing this there ultra smooth feeling now on front.......
I tried that, it only worked for certain amount of run then locking again, like i said that never happend on my xxx-s before. this need to be fixed sooner better
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Old 09-08-2009, 05:37 PM   #10439
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I find this interesting john, as I've had 2 type-r's and never had this issue even on foam. Are you using losi bearings in the knuckles? I almost always still need a shim behind the pin on my axles.
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:13 PM   #10440
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/6318087-post174.html

Anyone in the know if there's any truth to this? You can still order it from Horizon, maybe they're trying to get rid of the last of them?
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