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Old 09-03-2009, 09:54 PM   #10411
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Hey guys, i am building my kit now, and the diffs act like they dont tighten down all the way. the screw doesnt seem to thread far enough into the plastic outdrive. It says to tighten diff until slight resistance is felt, but it looks like its about a 1/4 inch from even being tight. theres still slack between the outdrive and the pulley.

what gives? surely it isnt normal
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:05 PM   #10412
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never mind, i figured it out. just have to really give it hell to get the diff tight
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:45 PM   #10413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
I bought a Tekin Redline system for my JRXS and I can't get the motor to fit. I have a Losi 90 tooth 48p spur and a 37 tooth pinion. I shaved some off the inside of the left side rear hinge block, but it seems like I'd have to take a lot more material off to get it to fit. Does any one have this motor in their car? can I see pics of the hinge block? I'd hate to have to take plastic off the back of the motor. Just for giggles I tried to fit a Xcelorin motor inn there as well, it fits, but just BARELY. If I hadn't removed the material to try to fit the Redline motor in I doubt that the Xcelorin would have fit either. Are all brushless motors going to be a tight fit in this car?
I have it in my car, it fits nicely once the block is shaved down. you don't have to shave the whole face down, just the part that intrudes into the motor bay. I would need a new block to change my roll center though. I picked up a couple different sized spurs to fit my FDR needs, but I can get 6 or 7 different pinions on before I need to swap out spurs. I have 41 to 52 pinions and 110, 114 and 118 PRS spurs.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:06 PM   #10414
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Will be hitting the asphalt for the first time with the car this weekend. Been running alot of rubber tire on carpet. Perhaps the setup will transfer with just a few changes.

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Old 09-04-2009, 02:19 PM   #10415
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I have it in my car, it fits nicely once the block is shaved down. you don't have to shave the whole face down, just the part that intrudes into the motor bay. I would need a new block to change my roll center though. I picked up a couple different sized spurs to fit my FDR needs, but I can get 6 or 7 different pinions on before I need to swap out spurs. I have 41 to 52 pinions and 110, 114 and 118 PRS spurs.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I may just keep the ESC and use a different motor. The ESC is the best part of the system anyways.

Nice paint JKirkwood. Did you do that yourself?
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:33 PM   #10416
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Nice paint JKirkwood. Did you do that yourself?
Yes. I can't take all the credit. Skipgear designed the paint scheme about 9 years ago for me that I've used since. I've just learned (with his permission) on how to paint it.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:08 PM   #10417
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Will be hitting the asphalt for the first time with the car this weekend. Been running alot of rubber tire on carpet. Perhaps the setup will transfer with just a few changes.
Very nice & Unique. GJ
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:57 PM   #10418
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Has anyone considered using these with the plastic tray? I think this would give more flex for those who are looking for it..

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=16802
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:02 PM   #10419
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Has anyone considered using these with the plastic tray? I think this would give more flex for those who are looking for it..

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=16802
With the new lower weight limit I run the plastic tray and my car comes in at 1418grams ready to set down on the track and its balanced. Just need to add a small bit of weight to get up to 1425
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:06 PM   #10420
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With the new lower weight limit I run the plastic tray and my car comes in at 1418grams ready to set down on the track and its balanced. Just need to add a small bit of weight to get up to 1425
Where were you last Saturday? I was at Bending Corners pretty much all day!!
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:50 AM   #10421
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:38 PM   #10422
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Car was great today on the asphalt. First time on an outdoor track for about 8 years. Took the TQ & A-main win. Only changed a few things from my carpet setup. Could had maybe needed a little more steering entering the turn but it got better all day as I got use to how the spool wanted to be driven. Probably would had been faster win a one-way after seeing the track but not sure if I would had of been as consistent.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:29 PM   #10423
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Recently there has been discussion about diff building so I decided to try something different by taking the cage that holds the diff balls on the thrust bearing. I then took extra balls and put them between the two washers with finish line teflon grease.

Then I use associated diff lub #6591 on the pulley and tighten it up. One mod that I have done to improve the tightness was to take a 4-40 nut, grind the edges down, slide it in the hub, result, no more stripping/coming loose.

I find that the balls don't have an opportunity to grind thru the cage now that it is gone and it is much smoother now than ever. One thing I did notice that on the front diff, the front right wheel would stop sooner than the left when applying brake. To remove this symptom, I tightened it up a little more and it went away.

The only problem I see with building the diff this way is the potential to loose the thrust balls when you do a rebuild. Other than that I am much happier with this method.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:58 PM   #10424
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Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
Where were you last Saturday? I was at Bending Corners pretty much all day!!
....
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:53 AM   #10425
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Hello MaxRain,

Interesting stuff you are talking about but what do you mean when you say "taking the cage" ?
Maybe you could post some pictures of the mod to make it clear ?

Still looking myself how to make these diffs good and last longer.

Thanks :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
Recently there has been discussion about diff building so I decided to try something different by taking the cage that holds the diff balls on the thrust bearing. I then took extra balls and put them between the two washers with finish line teflon grease.

Then I use associated diff lub #6591 on the pulley and tighten it up. One mod that I have done to improve the tightness was to take a 4-40 nut, grind the edges down, slide it in the hub, result, no more stripping/coming loose.

I find that the balls don't have an opportunity to grind thru the cage now that it is gone and it is much smoother now than ever. One thing I did notice that on the front diff, the front right wheel would stop sooner than the left when applying brake. To remove this symptom, I tightened it up a little more and it went away.

The only problem I see with building the diff this way is the potential to loose the thrust balls when you do a rebuild. Other than that I am much happier with this method.
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