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Old 08-31-2009, 11:21 AM   #10381
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
The funny thing is we all had different setups. You had all the flex, Brian and I didn't have much of the same.
your car was hooked yesterday Rui, yes this car have lots of potential, as long as car is built right this car can handle any set up and run well, basic design of the car is good. (period)
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:24 AM   #10382
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your car was hooked yesterday Rui, yes this car have lots of potential, as long as car is built right this car can handle any set up and run well, basic design of the car is good. (period)
Thanks..It really came together in the main
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:59 PM   #10383
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Originally Posted by Spillertwo View Post
Quick question:
if you do the double D ring modification on the diff do you take out the bronze diff ring shim or do you let it in ?

Just ordered the extra D ring today so will try it next week probably :-)
Hope it makes the diff better.
+2 on leave it out.

I suggest you only do the d-ring mod if you are having problems with the diff slipping. Otherwise leave it be.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:13 PM   #10384
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I want to make the front camber link mod. Change the JR links to Ti. rod links. What size and brand of Ti. rods do I need to use.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:56 PM   #10385
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I want to make the front camber link mod. Change the JR links to Ti. rod links. What size and brand of Ti. rods do I need to use.
use the one from rear to front and order a 1" lunsford set for the rear.

more detail is in my blog show how to do it.

http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:46 AM   #10386
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Default diff building

hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:18 AM   #10387
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Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
wow, instead of get rid of a ring you guyse make it work extra hard.....hmmm I'll give it a shot next time.

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:07 AM   #10388
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Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
You have access to McMaster thrust bearings now . I have them in stock and I'll be putting them on the site inventory very soon! I ship world wide global priority mail flat rate envelope is 14$ (for shipping check usps.com) and 12$ for the bearings, if you do a group purchase it may take the sting off the shipping.

Oh and i'll have the RW spur gears in stock very soon, the titanium racing ceramic coated pinions came in yesterday :-D they are hot to death!
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:17 PM   #10389
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The great thing with tiny parts like bearings: They fit in a $0.50 stamped letter.
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:55 AM   #10390
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Oh and i'll have the RW spur gears in stock very soon, the titanium racing ceramic coated pinions came in yesterday :-D they are hot to death!
Well you have the best of both worlds there don't you. I love the RW spurs although they can be a little loud! I used to run the TiR pinions years ago and they were great... was just hard to get em though. I run the RW's now and so far they have been bullet proof. They are steel however so more suited to 10.5 and lower turn motors.
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:07 PM   #10391
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Does anybody have any pics of their electronics setups on their car? More specifically using a novak GTB esc? Just got my kit today. Thanks in advance!

zachwgarner@yahoo.com
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:19 PM   #10392
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The manual says to lube both sides of the copper ring. I think many people tend to forget that.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:00 PM   #10393
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
use the one from rear to front and order a 1" lunsford set for the rear.

more detail is in my blog show how to do it.

http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
I decided to try LOSA1233.. they fit perfectly in the c-hub
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:11 PM   #10394
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I decided to try LOSA1233.. they fit perfectly in the c-hub
that s what I had untill I made my own, problem was I had to pop out the ball cups everytime, instead of unscrewing it like any other joints on whole car.

IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:55 PM   #10395
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
that s what I had untill I made my own, problem was I had to pop out the ball cups everytime, instead of unscrewing it like any other joints on whole car.

IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~
I use this with the regular rod ends with no problem. what I like most about the studs is that they are longer than the Losa6026. When you put them on, the are flush with the bottom edge of the c-hub. Only downfall is that you have to use the losi wrench to screw them on and off. Other than that, they work great.
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