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Old 08-19-2009, 03:34 PM   #10246
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What parts are you replacing after 2 runs?
I don't replace any parts, I do however sand the plates with 1200. Its more a problem that the diff gets too much rubbish in it and goes all gritty. Its relative to the power being used.
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:43 PM   #10247
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OMG ! I'm sorry I badly understood :s
For my defence I'll say that I'm french -__-'

No I've never used those screws (because I've never tried).

Yes you are right, I used a 1deg block at the euro and 0deg hub, so 2deg rear toe.

Mike : I basicly did the flex modification to get more steering. In fact it gave me more stability at corner entry, more mid corner steering, more overall grip and a little bit less corner speed. It's usually faster like this (up to 2/10 a lap).
I tried doing some flex work last night at one of our local tracks. Hard to say if the lap times improved... mayb a tenth. The car was however more settled on the track, had much better low speed steering and less high speed. This was only with all of the battery brace supports disconnected from the upper deck and the front two screws removed from the rear bulkheads (lower deck). I would be more tempted to lean towards stiffer springs though for better braking and throttle performance than high roll centers.

I will give it a more though test this weekend on our nationals track. Hope to have a crack at that title in a couple of months.
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:55 PM   #10248
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Hey guys,
I'm thinking about buying a JRX-S Type R. Is there anything I should know about the car before I buy it? Any weak spots? or fixes that should be done while building? Is the standard asphalt setup good?
I'll have to dig around in this thread a bit tonight and see what I can find, but with 500+ pages it's tough to find exactly what your looking for sometimes.

Anybody have a JRX-S R for sale? Please PM me!
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:11 PM   #10249
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Originally Posted by l.urbain View Post
OMG ! I'm sorry I badly understood :s
For my defence I'll say that I'm french -__-'

No I've never used those screws (because I've never tried).

Yes you are right, I used a 1deg block at the euro and 0deg hub, so 2deg rear toe.

Mike : I basicly did the flex modification to get more steering. In fact it gave me more stability at corner entry, more mid corner steering, more overall grip and a little bit less corner speed. It's usually faster like this (up to 2/10 a lap).
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I tried doing some flex work last night at one of our local tracks. Hard to say if the lap times improved... mayb a tenth. The car was however more settled on the track, had much better low speed steering and less high speed. This was only with all of the battery brace supports disconnected from the upper deck and the front two screws removed from the rear bulkheads (lower deck). I would be more tempted to lean towards stiffer springs though for better braking and throttle performance than high roll centers.

I will give it a more though test this weekend on our nationals track. Hope to have a crack at that title in a couple of months.

O.k. let me know what you come up with i haven't gotten the carbon cut yet, so i still have time to make adjustments. I'm waiting on some detaield photos but if we can come up with a more flexible (pun intended) i'm game to have it produced.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:28 PM   #10250
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Hey guys,
I'm thinking about buying a JRX-S Type R. Is there anything I should know about the car before I buy it? Any weak spots? or fixes that should be done while building? Is the standard asphalt setup good?
I'll have to dig around in this thread a bit tonight and see what I can find, but with 500+ pages it's tough to find exactly what your looking for sometimes.

Anybody have a JRX-S R for sale? Please PM me!

no weak spots, just usual suspects, have a set of front A arm and maybe a castor block for spares. jsut follow the manual, like cutting a shrink tubing for LCD correct length...manual set up should be okay to start with, or look for a haynes carpet set up for iic and make shock oil little lighter. (1step lighter) get a shereded nuts for wheels....
I have a Losi touring blog, come on down. there is few item that can help you.
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:22 AM   #10251
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O.k. let me know what you come up with i haven't gotten the carbon cut yet, so i still have time to make adjustments. I'm waiting on some detaield photos but if we can come up with a more flexible (pun intended) i'm game to have it produced.
I wouldn't think here is too much rocket science to it.... I would suggest if you are going to make em up just make room for the steering posts and then run two beams down the middle like most other high end TC's. I would tend to keep them a little spaced apart too.

Just a question about all this flex modding. It occurred to me that the battery is applying pressure to this now "soft flexible" area so mayb we should look at replacing the current upper deck supports with a battery brace of some sort so the battery does not come into contact with the upper deck?

Food for thought...
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:03 AM   #10252
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Tape the battery to the tray. Remove the foam padding from the bottom of the top deck. if you use the plastic trays. They are cheap enough to have one per battery.
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:58 PM   #10253
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Ok guys I'm assembling my JRXS and I got to the point of putting the front end together. I used the heat shrink to hold in the pin on the drive axles in place. I was stunned at the amount of plastic I was going to have to cut away for the axle to fit though the castor block. Is there a trick I can use instead of the heat shrink tubing? Would shoe goo do the trick? Or am I left with cutting the castor blocks.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:27 PM   #10254
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Ok guys I'm assembling my JRXS and I got to the point of putting the front end together. I used the heat shrink to hold in the pin on the drive axles in place. I was stunned at the amount of plastic I was going to have to cut away for the axle to fit though the castor block. Is there a trick I can use instead of the heat shrink tubing? Would shoe goo do the trick? Or am I left with cutting the castor blocks.
You made the hole big enough for the LCD joint to fit through the castor block? You are suppose to take things apart to get the axle in, not make the hole big enough to fit in w/o taking it apart.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:29 PM   #10255
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Ok guys I'm assembling my JRXS and I got to the point of putting the front end together. I used the heat shrink to hold in the pin on the drive axles in place. I was stunned at the amount of plastic I was going to have to cut away for the axle to fit though the castor block. Is there a trick I can use instead of the heat shrink tubing? Would shoe goo do the trick? Or am I left with cutting the castor blocks.

no no no ....you dont have to remove too much from a castor block. just about 2mm. just make sure you trimmed the shrink tubing in right length. the shrink tube just have to go over a pins, no longer than that.

bielive me shrink tubing is da BEST.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:31 PM   #10256
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You made the hole big enough for the LCD joint to fit through the castor block? You are suppose to take things apart to get the axle in, not make the hole big enough to fit in w/o taking it apart.

no way!! is that what he did?
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:07 PM   #10257
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no no no ....you dont have to remove too much from a castor block. just about 2mm. just make sure you trimmed the shrink tubing in right length. the shrink tube just have to go over a pins, no longer than that.

bielive me shrink tubing is da BEST.
I never cut anything away from my castor blocks to get my LCD's to fit. After I shrink the heat shrink I then trim it so there is nothing overhanging. It has been so effective that I have removed the grub screw from my RCD's and use heat shrink on them too.

I have a wicked idea I will run by paul for a simple fix to retaining batteries with the flex setup.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:15 PM   #10258
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I never cut anything away from my castor blocks to get my LCD's to fit. After I shrink the heat shrink I then trim it so there is nothing overhanging. It has been so effective that I have removed the grub screw from my RCD's and use heat shrink on them too.

I have a wicked idea I will run by paul for a simple fix to retaining batteries with the flex setup.
I think inside wheel rub just a little, once I forgto to trim then found lil bit of rubbed sign there.


I just let my battery hang there without any foam tapes on upper deck or taped to the bottom plate, didnt have any problem, I guess thick wires with deans helped holding battery in place.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:21 PM   #10259
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I think inside wheel rub just a little, once I forgto to trim then found lil bit of rubbed sign there.


I just let my battery hang there without any foam tapes on upper deck or taped to the bottom plate, didnt have any problem, I guess thick wires with deans helped holding battery in place.
I believe I have a really simple and sweet idea. I'll just have to bodge some up to test 1st. I'll have a serious test session on sunday at the track our nationals are on later this year. If I can get the car to turn low 16's or better on old rubber it will be a weapon come the nats.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:25 PM   #10260
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I believe I have a really simple and sweet idea. I'll just have to bodge some up to test 1st. I'll have a serious test session on sunday at the track our nationals are on later this year. If I can get the car to turn low 16's or better on old rubber it will be a weapon come the nats.
cool cant wait to see it! good luck at the NATS!
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