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Old 08-04-2009, 01:11 AM   #10066
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Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2 rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
Nice to hear he has done well with it... it was very fast to watch.

Just a quick Q... Does the high rollcenter settings rely on the flex to work? I have tried high roll centers and no jr link before and the car was terrible.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:00 AM   #10067
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
An aodized one would be cool but I know its costly.
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I think anodizing was looked at but it just added cost to the product and I believe it also changed the size slightly which was not a constant value so in some ways it would be a lesser quality product if anodized.
Dragonfire has it right again. Depending on who does the anodizing, the thickness will vary. The diameter of the layshaft and spool has to be accurate to within 1/10th the thickness of a sheet of paper. This was especially difficult for the layshaft as it is a long an thin part. If machined normally it would flex and be nowhere near parallel. It was made in a way that caused the trademark pattern on the shaft.

Also important is the fact that both parts are not wearing parts and there would be no functional reason to surface harden them. Just be sure you don't have any dodgy bearings!
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:40 AM   #10068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2 rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Nice to hear he has done well with it... it was very fast to watch.

Just a quick Q... Does the high rollcenter settings rely on the flex to work? I have tried high roll centers and no jr link before and the car was terrible.
It really was a fantastic result. To TQ round 5 of qualy against the best in the world is probably the greatest achievement the Type R has had. Now we don't have to listen to idiots trying to tell us the Type R is old and uncompetative chassis.

I have also tried high roll center and found the car very difficult to drive. I suspect the tracks here in Australia have a lot less traction than in other parts of the world.

Phil what do you and Lucas think the difference is between diff heights. I have tried different combinations and couldn't feel any notacable difference. In theory a high diff should give more on power traction at that end of the car.
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Last edited by Pablo Diablo; 08-04-2009 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:25 AM   #10069
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Be interesting to hear the answer on this one. I run my diffs high all round to keep them clear of rubbish from the track. Also in theroy it will generate more side bite with less response but considering this chassis has response like no other I never factor that into setup.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:35 AM   #10070
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I too have tried high roll centers all around and found it difficult to drive too... Must be the Aussie tracks I think.. Too much red dust...
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:10 AM   #10071
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I almost always run the rear diff in the low position, I don't like how the high position makes the car ride flat in the rear.

The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.

I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL

Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car? I see how the rear of the plate was attached using the stock screw locations in the pics but can't tell how they keyed the front of the tray into the car.

Last edited by jkirkwood; 08-04-2009 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:27 AM   #10072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2 rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
Hello Phil, welcome to R forum

I gusee all that flex you created that you only need 2deg of RR toe, which can help more speed and more exit steering for the car.

I been running High front and Med roll center in Rear felt good.

one question

did you strap a battery to the battery plate with the strapping tape? or double side taped to the plate? or how did you taped them?

thank you and good luck
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Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 08-04-2009 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:35 AM   #10073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I almost always run the rear diff in the low position, I don't like how the high position makes the car ride flat in the rear.

The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.

I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL

Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car?
we wrote same question in same time about battery taped.


I adjust diff height according to my riding height/roll center, meaning I just want my CVD shaft to be pararell to the ground.

thats the habit I m having since RC10 gold tub days and I think it does make good sense by how straight joint run more efficiently, I do that and forget about diff height then adjust chassis in many other way that we do.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:11 PM   #10074
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Hi Guys !

Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :


Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite

Front Suspension

Toe : 0
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long

Front Drivetrain

Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195

Shocks

OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none


Rear Suspension

Toe : 2
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0
Rear Pivot : 2
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long

Rear Drivetrain

Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165

Shocks

OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none

Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform

Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery tray mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50C.


Concerning the battery tray, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic tray only two srews are needed.


I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).

Last edited by l.urbain; 08-04-2009 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:23 PM   #10075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l.urbain View Post
Hi Guys !


Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50C.


Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.


I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).

thanks Lucas Great run at the ETC! we were all excited by your results!

so how did you taped your battery? did you modify the tray to fits the tape in lengthwise?

keep up the good work and hope you can Hang with us often in this forum
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:23 PM   #10076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l.urbain View Post
Hi Guys !

Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :


Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite

Front Suspension

Toe : 0
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long

Front Drivetrain

Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195

Shocks

OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none


Rear Suspension

Toe : 2
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0
Rear Pivot : 2
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long

Rear Drivetrain

Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165

Shocks

OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none

Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform

Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50C.


Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.


I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
Thanks Lucas, great racing and excellent first post.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:33 PM   #10077
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Originally Posted by l.urbain View Post
Hi Guys !

Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer

I thnink you ment #1 hole, according to picture on Redrc, #2 is for XXX-S ? right?
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:38 PM   #10078
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I didn't even modify the tray, just fixed the batery as in a normal car, it may move a bit verticaly but you can fix it by pasting some foam pad under the top deck. I use tape just to avoid the battery moving backward.

I think that from now on you'll see me more often on this forum

Lucas.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:42 PM   #10079
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
I thnink you ment #1 hole, according to picture on Redrc, #2 is for XXX-S ? right?

Oops sorry you're right :s, I ment #1... But I've never had a XXX-S before, so I can't tell you, that's my first Losi actually.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:47 PM   #10080
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Originally Posted by l.urbain View Post
Oops sorry you're right :s, I ment #1... But I've never had a XXX-S before, so I can't tell you, that's my first Losi actually.
Thanks

I thought so, no xxx-s for you? man.... you missed one hell of a belt skipping ride!

Hey Lucas can you visit my blog and leave some words?

thanks in advance
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