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Old 08-02-2009, 06:18 PM   #10036
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Make sure you are using the correct size pin. I thought I broke another joint piece because of the spool, but it turned out I accidently put a wheel hex pin in it and was too short. Lasted a couple weeks before it fell out.
Very good point!

I think I used LCD pins on my wheel axle once before, I snapped 2 of them same day.

I m getting a new lcd package next week, I ll measure to see the diffrence.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:45 PM   #10037
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Hey guys I got some SMC 40c hard pack lipos and they don't fit the lipo tray. They are barely too big to fit inside the lip. Does any one use thee and have any tricks? What lipos are you guys using that do fit?
Team Checkpoint/Trakpower 4900s fit right in also.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:48 PM   #10038
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So here some pics of getting the smc 40c to fit.

Well, here's a pic of my car now. After all was done.




1. As you can see in this pic I dremeled some the top deck there so the wires could come up through.





2. Install the FlyingFox layshafter. As you can see in pic where the blue tape is I added to show where the battery end is.


3. Had to grind down the rear bulkheads/screw some to accommidate the height of the pack.


4. Now I ground down some the plastic in the back of the pack too, but do that at own risk. Be careful. Blue tape is the spots ground. This pic shows the lipo tray modified to fit.



Or, if I was to do it again. I would probably get the TP packs. lol. O well, it's down and is fine.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #10039
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btw: I LOL at the Tamiya Jilla's thread. going on 3 pages of, "Hey grats on the win!" Geeze!@ Enough already!


And a another pic of my car. Cause I think poeple are like me and enjoy the pics.


Last edited by vr6cj; 08-02-2009 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:59 PM   #10040
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btw: I LOL at the Tamiya Jilla's thread. going on 3 pages of, "Hey grats on the win!" Geeze!@ Enough already!


And a another pic of my car. Cause I think poeple are like me and enjoy the pics.


wow did you paint that yourself? nice!


I had to do all that griding and pullies for SMC too.

suggestion on your wiring, if you solder those 3 moto wires from the other side of the tabs it would be neater.

nice car!
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:04 PM   #10041
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wow did you paint that yourself? nice!


I had to do all that griding and pullies for SMC too.

suggestion on your wiring, if you wire those 3 moto wires from the other side of the tabs it would be neater.

nice car!
Thanks, yeah, I did the paint. Still getting back into the airbrushing thing. Been awhile. Sorry for pics. A little grainy. Iphone pics you know.

On the wiring....yeah, I'll have to do that. I used to have the fans on there, so the wiring would hit it if not on other side, but since cooling hasnt been to much of a issue I havent used it.
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:39 PM   #10042
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Thanks, yeah, I did the paint. Still getting back into the airbrushing thing. Been awhile. Sorry for pics. A little grainy. Iphone pics you know.

On the wiring....yeah, I'll have to do that. I used to have the fans on there, so the wiring would hit it if not on other side, but since cooling hasnt been to much of a issue I havent used it.
Is that pack sitting completely flat in the tray? Most trays require some dremeling to get the pack to sit all the way in, this would have limited the amount you had to grind the pack, if you ever run at a roar sanctioned race, they will not allow you to run that pack.
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:57 PM   #10043
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Is that pack sitting completely flat in the tray? Most trays require some dremeling to get the pack to sit all the way in, this would have limited the amount you had to grind the pack, if you ever run at a roar sanctioned race, they will not allow you to run that pack.
Yes this is a good point. You are not allowed to modify the battery case in any way on lipo packs. Its best to look around for packs that fit the chassis better from the start.

As for the LCD's. Cut the heatshrink a bit long then shrink it over the top. Use a hobby knife to trim around the edges a bit so there is no overhang. This setup has worked fine for me with motors down to 3.5t. I also run 90% steering lock all the time with no problems. I am now trying this same setup on the rear RCD's as I have had the pin come out on a few occasions so far. I believe the heatshrink is better than a grubscrew.
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:35 PM   #10044
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I'm using the smc 40cs and I had to break out the dremel and get the www.FlyingFoxRC.com layshaft so the pullys are spaced out more.
I noticed how close the pulleys were. Do you have any pics to show me with the battery in. I appreciate the help it's all so tight in there.
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:42 PM   #10045
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Yes this is a good point. You are not allowed to modify the battery case in any way on lipo packs. Its best to look around for packs that fit the chassis better from the start.

As for the LCD's. Cut the heatshrink a bit long then shrink it over the top. Use a hobby knife to trim around the edges a bit so there is no overhang. This setup has worked fine for me with motors down to 3.5t. I also run 90% steering lock all the time with no problems. I am now trying this same setup on the rear RCD's as I have had the pin come out on a few occasions so far. I believe the heatshrink is better than a grubscrew.

that hold s grerase better too, my shrink wrap became reusable as well. it is better than a set screw.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:27 PM   #10046
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Nice man those pics will sure help. I have an aluminum tray which I think is going to have to gofor the plastic one like you have. I thought for sure these would fit with of course notching the to plate. I love these packs 5200 and 40c is hard to beat. Well thanks again looks like I have some work to do but quite all right I need to wait for my rspro to come in still. I do like pics my favorite thread on electric on road is the cleanest wireing one. That really helps when it comes to wireing.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:44 PM   #10047
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I noticed how close the pulleys were. Do you have any pics to show me with the battery in. I appreciate the help it's all so tight in there.
Well, as far as the battery goes. I can say I dremeled to much on the end of it. I tried fitting it before the layshaft and grinding. The battery doesnt hit the topdeck at all. It's held in snug by the rear bulkhead and lipo tray.

Blue tape sure comes in handy. lol See it's snug to bulkhead.


Reference to battery height.


There shouldn't be any need to grind anything on the battery now after grinding the rear bulkheads and getting the FlyingFoxLayshaft in. So I should be golden for another one. It's the only 40C SMC pack I have.

Pic to show the pulley and battery closeness.


Hey John. So, had a little time tonight and cleaned up the car a tad. Also did some work on that top deck to get some flex. Well see how it works Saturday. :P

Left my motor wires a little long for gearing.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:29 AM   #10048
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Looks clean with the speed controller on that side. I got my battery all in trimmed all the case out of the top corners and exposed the cells very carefully and didn't shave down the bulk head but it fits good. Just need to give flying fox a call in the morning. What brand spurs do you run and what gearing I see you run 13.5 as well. My local track has 100 foot straight.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:05 PM   #10049
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Well, as far as the battery goes. I can say I dremeled to much on the end of it. I tried fitting it before the layshaft and grinding. The battery doesnt hit the topdeck at all. It's held in snug by the rear bulkhead and lipo tray.

Blue tape sure comes in handy. lol See it's snug to bulkhead.


Reference to battery height.


There shouldn't be any need to grind anything on the battery now after grinding the rear bulkheads and getting the FlyingFoxLayshaft in. So I should be golden for another one. It's the only 40C SMC pack I have.

Pic to show the pulley and battery closeness.


Hey John. So, had a little time tonight and cleaned up the car a tad. Also did some work on that top deck to get some flex. Well see how it works Saturday. :P

Left my motor wires a little long for gearing.
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
Looks clean with the speed controller on that side. I got my battery all in trimmed all the case out of the top corners and exposed the cells very carefully and didn't shave down the bulk head but it fits good. Just need to give flying fox a call in the morning. What brand spurs do you run and what gearing I see you run 13.5 as well. My local track has 100 foot straight.
yeah Chris nice ride dude

cause the servo is on right hand side I dont think we need a ESC on same side, no fan for you? maybe that SXX helping you stay cool, I run TC spec sphere/Losi motor for 4.1 FGR cooking @ 160F in 90F ambient with 2 fans, come to my blog chris and everyone

my track is 140 ft long
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:34 PM   #10050
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yeah Chris nice ride dude

cause the servo is on right hand side I dont think we need a ESC on same side, no fan for you? maybe that SXX helping you stay cool, I run TC spec sphere/Losi motor for 4.1 FGR cooking @ 160F in 90F ambient with 2 fans, come to my blog chris and everyone

my track is 140 ft long
Nice looking blog so far John. You should add Jiles diff building vid too.

I do run a motor heat sink and fan. Just not in the picture there because one the fans started making lots of noises. But this weekend will be my first actually race with the new sxx tc so not sure how hot it'll get. The heatsink is attached to the board itself of the esc and cant be removed, so I would imangine it'll do well to disapate heat. The instructions says the fan isnt even needed(yeah right!). So didnt want to comment on my gearing because it's still a "unknown" until I get some run time in.

So far though I am diggin the sxxtc. Alot smaller in size and the wires come out front to back which is a great help in this car! This ESC makes the SP look like a brick. :P
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