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Old 07-24-2009, 10:50 PM   #9931
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
From personal exerience the GTB is the slowest Brushless ESC I have used (high end ESC's). The rave at the moment is the Tekin RS or try a SP GT2.0 (what I use) or a LRP SPX. All of these will improve the performance of the same motor you currently use. Advise for software on both the SP and Tekin speedies can be found on their respective threads.

As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
I have an RS and love it in my XXX-T CR. I have a couple of SP 1.1s I run in my TA cars. I'll probably put this one in something else and then upgrade to an RS eventually in this car, but right now it will not help my driving. I need to practice more before I sink another couple hundred into a speedo. So far it hasn't let me down. If I could afford it, I'd sell off all of them and replace them with RSs. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:35 AM   #9932
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
From personal exerience the GTB is the slowest Brushless ESC I have used (high end ESC's). The rave at the moment is the Tekin RS or try a SP GT2.0 (what I use) or a LRP SPX. All of these will improve the performance of the same motor you currently use. Advise for software on both the SP and Tekin speedies can be found on their respective threads.

As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
The fastest ESC's on the market are now GM Genius 90 and Genius 120, they really rock in Europe!
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:47 AM   #9933
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Hi,
This might be a silly question but what was wrong with the original front engined JRX-S that made Losi design the Type R?
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:53 AM   #9934
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Its a GTB, Profile 1, with Braking maxed and a SS13.5. The whole car and electronics package was purchased used (assembled) that way and is plenty fast for my ability, but getting close to 180* at the end of a 6 min. run. I know its close on temp, but I like them to operate under 150 if possible.
With a gtb i had to run about 4.3 to be competitive at the tracks i frequent. Try the rollout you suggest, and see where your laptimes are, then push your self to set an average lap time (over 10 laps) to be 1sec faster. There will be a little tweaking involved here, go up a tooth, then down a tooth do the same thing average out your lap times changing nothing else. See what kind of patter develops. 5.0 is a good place to start, but i suspect you will only end up back in the mid to lower 4s to be competitive.

I own a GTB and that is where i started, it was a great solid speedo for me to get started in brushless but unfortunately it will not allow you to go as fast as you like and keep the temps down. As a for instance, moving from software version 1.89 to software version 1.98 on my Tekin Rs and changing nothing else brought my temps down by about 10*F and made me faster.

Your speedo is going to be the limiting factor in you getting to below the 150* mark. As well, 180* is not healthy for your motor. I've got a couple exploded rotors from that line of motors to prove it .

I by no means am suggesting that you go out and spend money, only helping you set the proper expectations as to what you will get out of the GTB. If you gear down by 2 teeth you will be in the temp range you suggest, depending on your track size the 5.0 ish roll out can give you some decent low end but your top end may be lacking.

If you troll around on the for sale section of rc tech you will now and again see a Tekin rs for around 115$ to 1254. GTB's still fetch about 80$ to 100$ so you may be looking at a low out of pocket if you chose the used route to upgrade.
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:55 AM   #9935
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Originally Posted by Taffyjnr5 View Post
Hi,
This might be a silly question but what was wrong with the original front engined JRX-S that made Losi design the Type R?
My understanding is original model was lacking on power steering for mod. I know it worked pretty well for stock and 19T when it came out.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:49 AM   #9936
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Hi,
This might be a silly question but what was wrong with the original front engined JRX-S that made Losi design the Type R?
I thought it was decent car. Diff access was a real pain, but the kicker was it would never fit a lipo of the time, let alone the monsters of today.
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:13 PM   #9937
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I know Flying Fox RC is working on a new chassis layout to improve the f/r weight balance for lipo/brushless. This should fit any modern lipo with ease when it is ready.
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:28 PM   #9938
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
With a gtb i had to run about 4.3 to be competitive at the tracks i frequent. Try the rollout you suggest, and see where your laptimes are, then push your self to set an average lap time (over 10 laps) to be 1sec faster. There will be a little tweaking involved here, go up a tooth, then down a tooth do the same thing average out your lap times changing nothing else. See what kind of patter develops. 5.0 is a good place to start, but i suspect you will only end up back in the mid to lower 4s to be competitive.

I own a GTB and that is where i started, it was a great solid speedo for me to get started in brushless but unfortunately it will not allow you to go as fast as you like and keep the temps down. As a for instance, moving from software version 1.89 to software version 1.98 on my Tekin Rs and changing nothing else brought my temps down by about 10*F and made me faster.

Your speedo is going to be the limiting factor in you getting to below the 150* mark. As well, 180* is not healthy for your motor. I've got a couple exploded rotors from that line of motors to prove it .

I by no means am suggesting that you go out and spend money, only helping you set the proper expectations as to what you will get out of the GTB. If you gear down by 2 teeth you will be in the temp range you suggest, depending on your track size the 5.0 ish roll out can give you some decent low end but your top end may be lacking.

If you troll around on the for sale section of rc tech you will now and again see a Tekin rs for around 115$ to 1254. GTB's still fetch about 80$ to 100$ so you may be looking at a low out of pocket if you chose the used route to upgrade.
Solid advice. I'll probably bite the bullet after I feel like the speedo becomes my limiting factor.
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Old 07-26-2009, 12:19 AM   #9939
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I know Flying Fox RC is working on a new chassis layout to improve the f/r weight balance for lipo/brushless. This should fit any modern lipo with ease when it is ready.
Hi,
Is this chassis layout design for the original JRX-S or the Type R.......
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Old 07-26-2009, 04:49 AM   #9940
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Originally Posted by Taffyjnr5 View Post
Hi,
Is this chassis layout design for the original JRX-S or the Type R.......
Just for the Type R. Another area the Type R is different from the JRXS is the suspension arms. The JRXS arms are shorter.
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Old 07-26-2009, 06:40 AM   #9941
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All I'm having rear diff issues and cannot seem to get it as smooth as I'd like. I have bulit many diffs over the years so its not not a lack of skill. I seem to remember there was some good advice way back but after ages looking through the thread I cannot find it. Can anyone help.

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Old 07-26-2009, 07:45 PM   #9942
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Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
All I'm having rear diff issues and cannot seem to get it as smooth as I'd like. I have bulit many diffs over the years so its not not a lack of skill. I seem to remember there was some good advice way back but after ages looking through the thread I cannot find it. Can anyone help.

Thanks
First thing I can recommend you is do the D-ring mod, with taht copper ring on one side I can't never tell when is "the right point" by holding a spur and spin the wheels test.

after dothat mod you will need to remove that copper ring as well, I thought need that in there to make up the thickness but wasnt right, I guess D ring is thicker than a o shaped ring.

you also wanted to get a better thrust from either Xray or some company that Todd Hodge recommended, that s whrere I got mine from and it works lot better than a stock one.

anyone remember that company name?
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Old 07-26-2009, 08:39 PM   #9943
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
First thing I can recommend you is do the D-ring mod, with taht copper ring on one side I can't never tell when is "the right point" by holding a spur and spin the wheels test.

after dothat mod you will need to remove that copper ring as well, I thought need that in there to make up the thickness but wasnt right, I guess D ring is thicker than a o shaped ring.

you also wanted to get a better thrust from either Xray or some company that Todd Hodge recommended, that s whrere I got mine from and it works lot better than a stock one.

anyone remember that company name?
this is the site you would get the thrust bearing from, as for size i cant remember its been awhile since i ran a losi...

http://www.mcmaster.com/
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:25 PM   #9944
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this is the site you would get the thrust bearing from, as for size i cant remember its been awhile since i ran a losi...

http://www.mcmaster.com/

that s da company! I think this is the part http://www.mcmaster.com/#7806k53/=2x8js3


oh BTW Joey!

YOU TRAITOR!
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:34 PM   #9945
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Here are some pics of a production spool. Its about 1gram lighter than the prototype. Its lightened on the inside rather than the outside like the prototype. All testing has gone very well. Should be available in 1 week.
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Team Losi JRXS Type-R-sdc11502a.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-sdc11501a.jpg  
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