Originally Posted by Catbutt
I know it's a little late in the game but I thought I'd share some pics of my new type R. I did not include any under the hood pics as I'm sure by now everyone knows what to expect there
I'm new to on-road (experienced in off-road-Losi 8ight electric conversion) and this is my first. The car is brilliant and was easy to build. It is also a unique design and comes LiPO ready right from the box-nice touches and helped my descision. I run on ad-hoc parking lot tracks against X-Ray and Kyosho nitros with high-end racing modified mills and hang with them with ease. Under the hood I run a Novak GTB, 3.5r brushless, TrueRC 5000 LiPO, Nomadio reciever and all 3 fans on the can. I am having problems keeping the rear from stepping out under acceleration after hard turns. To combat this I installed a 41 tooth overdrive pulley up front and now the rear comes around on me during hard breaking turns or hard off power turns. Any ideas for a fix in this area would be welcome. My next step is to try a different set-up like Schreff's Jackson set-up which is very divergent from where I'm set now.
I have been running this car for a short while now and have had good success with it. The biggest problem I have had with this chassis is getting a good smooth and tight rear diff. I have tried many parts to improve it so far and these are the things that have made an improvement so far...
* Mill/File the alloy diff tube (large allloy piece that the diff bearings run on) to allow the use of a d-ring type diff ring on both sides of the pulley. This will eliminate the "tweaked" feeling you get on power when the diff slips.
* Dissasemble two thrust bearing cages and make up a thrust bearing using the standard washers but use loose balls. This allows you to have a 10 ball thrust bearing vs the 7 in the cage.
* Get better diff balls. I have found the associated diff balls (TC5) to be the best I have used so far. Stay away from ceramic in modified, they slip too easy under load.
Also use a bit of super glue on the thread of the diff hub before assembling the diff as this helps to keep the diff from loosening up during a run. Another thing to consider is your motor. I have found a 4.0 is the most you will need and is what all the pro drivers run with 6cell/lipo. The 3.5 will take its toll on the chassis and its performance with too much power. Ultimatley if you run on dirty surfaces like a car park you will find your diff only good for about 2 competative runs anyway as it will fill with dirt real quick. I suggest you build a few diffs up so you can swap them out every couple of runs when they start feeling "gritty".
Hope this helps.