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Old 05-12-2009, 08:15 AM   #9571
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when you guys get the lay shafts done let me know i want one
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:18 PM   #9572
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Default yeah ...

yeah me to,on that lay shaft..
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:06 PM   #9573
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As we speak the 1st stage of the 1st batch of layshafts (50 or so) are being turned. I believe finishing them off will happen before the end of the week. I'm sure Paul will let you know when he has some finished. He managed to find someone who will allow him to use the machinery himself to turn out decent numbers quickly so that will reduce the cost per unit.
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:26 PM   #9574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schreff View Post
There is no part number difference. There was a running change in the trays that fixed some fitment issues in the car and some batteries. It was mainly just changing the size of the pocket in the tray to just a tick bigger and double checking tolerances on it fitting the car.
Thanks, i'll look into it.

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I don't know why you guys use a metal tray unless you have very light lipos. Almost all the weight on my chassis is over the front to get it nicely balanced.

On that note...

Who would be interesed in a chassis conversion kit to better balance this chassis f/r? It is an idea being looked at to eliminate the spread of weight from one end of the chassis to the other and focus it in the middle. In theroy you will have more rotation speed (faster steering) with the same setup and electronics positioned better (not right up front with long wires running to the motor). Anyway its a work in progress at the moment.
About the weight thing, i think most guys who run tp lipos are still underweight, and a metal plate adds around 100-150 grams (depending on which one you have) in order to make ROAR min. weight for rubber tire (1500 i think?)

About the conversion kit, sounds promising, but it kind of reminds me of the hpi pro 3 as far as layout ballast goes. Moving the motor a touch more forward would be an interesting change. I guess only experimenting and time will tell! Would it have the same effect as say... moving the arms backward, but to a greater extent?
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:32 PM   #9575
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Default cool.

cool cool.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:23 PM   #9576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_main_attendee View Post
Thanks, i'll look into it.



About the weight thing, i think most guys who run tp lipos are still underweight, and a metal plate adds around 100-150 grams (depending on which one you have) in order to make ROAR min. weight for rubber tire (1500 i think?)
I only have just over a 100gms on my chassis. All of it is in front of the battery. I imagine that if I had a metal tray then my chassis would certainly have rear weight bias. They other element is that a steel tray effects the chassis. It reduces flex and stores tweak if it gets twisted.

Quote:
About the conversion kit, sounds promising, but it kind of reminds me of the hpi pro 3 as far as layout ballast goes. Moving the motor a touch more forward would be an interesting change. I guess only experimenting and time will tell! Would it have the same effect as say... moving the arms backward, but to a greater extent?
The layout would most likely be almost identical to the pro3, but with losi parts. The explination I have been using is this. Get a weight and tie it to the end of a string. Swing it round as fast as you can. You will find there is a limit to how fast you can go. Now grab the string closer to the weight and try again. You will be able to swing it around alot faster. This is the same effect we are looking at with this mod. The JRXS chassis is the best chassis on the market for centering weight l/r but this results in a large f/r split. Considering that everyone runs more weight on one side of the chassis to balance their speedy, Why not just move the servo there and tighten up the f/r split. I can see any negatives to this so far. The million dollar question is do we move the layshaft forward with the motor or move it behind the motor? I like the idea of moving the layshaft backwards. This gives you a long front belt and inherently more steering as a side effect.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:39 AM   #9577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I can see any negatives to this so far.
I think you mean CAN'T.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:03 AM   #9578
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The steel tray is invaluable. I have never had a problem with it either stiffining the chassis or tweak.
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Old 05-16-2009, 05:47 PM   #9579
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hey guys
which lipo pack fits the losi with the least amount or no mods???
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:28 PM   #9580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris08527 View Post
hey guys
which lipo pack fits the losi with the least amount or no mods???
Losi packs from what I hear. No mods at all. I am running the Protek 4000's in mine and just ground the case where the pullies would rub. I did not want to shave the pullies at all.
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:01 PM   #9581
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I think the TP 40c fits with the "new" steel battery tray with very little or no mods.

Even if you have to mod it, its worth it to fit to be able to run the tp 40c.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:53 PM   #9582
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Where can you get the metal tray?
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:05 PM   #9583
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Where can you get the metal tray?
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA4312
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:07 AM   #9584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_main_attendee View Post
I think the TP 40c fits with the "new" steel battery tray with very little or no mods.

Even if you have to mod it, its worth it to fit to be able to run the tp 40c.
is that the 5000/40c
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:48 PM   #9585
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Default Steps to get rear traction Godzilla

I may have asked this before but .... with this many pages in the thread I can't find it so i'm putting it in the title this time to make it easily searchable (hence the godzilla keyword ).

Situation:
Low temperature (track was 56*) medium bite surface relatively high speed

Major areas of my setup :
45/40 front rear shock oil, 17.5 springs all the way around
both diff's low (tried high/low front rear as well)
high roll center front (tried low low as well)
Low roll center in rear (1 washer under front roll center thingy)
tried both jr links and camber links in front
rear is 4 inside and farthest one from shock tower on the hub (B i think)
rear shocks are straight up and down
front shocks are second hole from up and down.
RP24 tires
6.5mm ride height, and 2mm droop all the way around.

I was really loose in the rear coming out of the corners, going in the corners i was good.

I also tried both over drive (smaller front pulley) and even.

What steps would I take to lock the rear of the car in more.
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