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Old 05-07-2009, 11:58 PM   #9556
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Yes sir. I ground the topdeck a small amount just where the wires touch. Basically just to round the corners so if its jarred around in one of my horrendous wrecks it wont cut the wire. Other than that it fits right into one of the newer metal trays and into the car without any mods.
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:04 AM   #9557
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Yes sir. I ground the topdeck a small amount just where the wires touch. Basically just to round the corners so if its jarred around in one of my horrendous wrecks it wont cut the wire. Other than that it fits right into one of the newer metal trays and into the car without any mods.
Your advice is very much appriciated. Hope your success with the Type R continues and we all get to learn from you more.
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:32 AM   #9558
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Larry, so you are doing IIC this year? I assume you are draggin Schreff with you. It was not the same not having you guys there last year.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:16 AM   #9559
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Chris, get a TP pack and dont look back. The car needs no mods for the pack to fit and its the fastest pack around. Cheaper than SMC too. And you know I wouldnt bs you buddy.

See you next weekend.
Thanks Larry,
is that the TP 5000/40C
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:31 AM   #9560
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That's sound advice Larry,
We don't want your new nick name to be Mr.BlowUP!

You going to the Reedy Race?
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:26 AM   #9561
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What would be a good starting point pinion/spur for a 17.5 BL Orion vortex. I've got a 128 spur in the car but i'm open to any other combo of spur/pinion, thanks. Oh, i'm running asphalt with rubber tires.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:03 AM   #9562
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What would be a good starting point pinion/spur for a 17.5 BL Orion vortex. I've got a 128 spur in the car but i'm open to any other combo of spur/pinion, thanks. Oh, I'm running asphalt with rubber tires.
I run a 108/52 combo. That's on a small track. On other tracks I run 108/54. With a 128 spur I'm not sure you can get a large enough pinion on there to get the right FDR. Go to http://gearchart.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=chart.create
You want a FDR around 3.5. 128/67 would give you a 3.5 FDR. What ESC are you running?
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:42 PM   #9563
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Thanks!
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:44 PM   #9564
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Tekin RS, not the pro.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:46 PM   #9565
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I also run the tekin rs. I would start with 108/52. I run 0 timing on the motor and full boost on the esc.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:24 PM   #9566
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Yes sir. I ground the topdeck a small amount just where the wires touch. Basically just to round the corners so if its jarred around in one of my horrendous wrecks it wont cut the wire. Other than that it fits right into one of the newer metal trays and into the car without any mods.

Wait, newer...metal...trays?

I've been under a rock for quite a while now, what's the difference between the "newer" ones and the "older" ones? What is the part number?
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:56 AM   #9567
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Wait, newer...metal...trays?

I've been under a rock for quite a while now, what's the difference between the "newer" ones and the "older" ones? What is the part number?
I don't know why you guys use a metal tray unless you have very light lipos. Almost all the weight on my chassis is over the front to get it nicely balanced.

On that note...

Who would be interesed in a chassis conversion kit to better balance this chassis f/r? It is an idea being looked at to eliminate the spread of weight from one end of the chassis to the other and focus it in the middle. In theroy you will have more rotation speed (faster steering) with the same setup and electronics positioned better (not right up front with long wires running to the motor). Anyway its a work in progress at the moment.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:06 AM   #9568
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Wait, newer...metal...trays?

I've been under a rock for quite a while now, what's the difference between the "newer" ones and the "older" ones? What is the part number?
There is no part number difference. There was a running change in the trays that fixed some fitment issues in the car and some batteries. It was mainly just changing the size of the pocket in the tray to just a tick bigger and double checking tolerances on it fitting the car.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:25 AM   #9569
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There is no part number difference. There was a running change in the trays that fixed some fitment issues in the car and some batteries. It was mainly just changing the size of the pocket in the tray to just a tick bigger and double checking tolerances on it fitting the car.
That is nice that they did that since I already had mine milled out in the pocket as well as ground some of the outside edge to make it fit. I remember seeing Haynes last year grinding the crap out of his at IIC to make a SMC pack fit his car so the tray would not bulge below the chassis.

Jason, are you and Larry doing IIC this year?
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:43 AM   #9570
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
I don't know why you guys use a metal tray unless you have very light lipos. Almost all the weight on my chassis is over the front to get it nicely balanced.

On that note...

Who would be interesed in a chassis conversion kit to better balance this chassis f/r? It is an idea being looked at to eliminate the spread of weight from one end of the chassis to the other and focus it in the middle. In theroy you will have more rotation speed (faster steering) with the same setup and electronics positioned better (not right up front with long wires running to the motor). Anyway its a work in progress at the moment.
This conversion would mount the motor and lipo forward around 25mm or 1 inch and relocate the servo to the side a bit like a Team magic E4. With the relatively light weight lipos we now run its really not needed to have nearly 200g of motor so far back in the car. In theory, with these changes, the car should rotate into a turn more willingly and pull out of a turn more easily.

Dragonfire Im already working on it and promise you will get your hands on the fist working prototype to test.

Also for those of you interested in the layshaft we have been working on, we started production on the first batch today. I will post pics and maybe a video of the CNC turning. Been a long time coming but when you are making small runs on very expensive machinery, patience is sometimes needed.
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