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Old 03-08-2009, 10:41 PM   #9301
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Originally Posted by Jaz406 View Post
I think it the weight down the center does not allow for the same amount of weight transfer as other cars so spring pressure is needed to make the car "grip"
I would have thought that the low polar weight of the car would mean the car rolls less than other cars and you would go softer to get a bit more roll.Doesn't more roll mean more weight over the outside wheels?
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:44 PM   #9302
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Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:19 AM   #9303
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
I agree with you 100%. And that is how my car felt too. But you have to agree that if people like Larry Fairtrace, Todd Hodge and Jason Schreffler use these setups to great success in some of the world biggest events there must be some good in it.

It just may be that they do race on tracks with very high grip levels. The setup attached is Larry Fairtrace's winning setup from last years Reedy Race.
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Team Losi JRXS Type-R-fairtrace-reedy-setup.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:25 AM   #9304
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Originally Posted by morris View Post
looks good to me...what lipo is that in there..still running nimh here..
Losi 7.2V 4400mAh High Performance Lipo
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Old 03-09-2009, 01:04 AM   #9305
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Just thought I would post a few pics of my adjusted layout on my chassis with the new speedy.

Speedy on the right, mounted side on and against battery tray to keep weight near center.

I removed the solder posts and put the wires straight into the holes to reduce weight up high and help keep things a little lower.

Power wires are setup to use packs with terminals on either side.

The capacitor is behind the speedy with the switch on top.

All wires excluding power and motor run under the top deck to keep weight low.

Reciever on left up near the front with transponder under and in front of the front diff.

There is 40g on front left in front of reciever to balnce chassis left to right.

There is 60g over the front with 20g on the back of the servo, 20g on the back side of the front bumper (nice spot here being well forward), and 20g around the transponder.

The weight and placement gives the chassis 52/48% f/r weight balance and a ready to run weight of 1488g (without swaybars which should turn up tomorrow)

There is also a fan heatsink on the motor but I have yet to put the fan on it which will slightly effect the balance but it won't be much.

This layout was not to bad to drive considering there was no swaybars and was over 0.5sec a lap up on the nearest guy in 10.5 rubber at my home club.
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Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pic_00025.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pic_00026.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pic_00029.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pic_00033.jpg  
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:27 AM   #9306
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Default 1 of my Type R for sale

I have a Type R for sale RTR listed below:

Losi Type R (RTR) Rubber Setup

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:08 AM   #9307
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
That has always been popular to help get rubber cars to rotate and have a good balance, the high front pin keeps the car from washing or just dumping on the nose especially when running a spool.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:11 AM   #9308
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
That has always been popular to help get rubber cars to rotate and have a good balance, the high front pin keeps the car from washing or just dumping on the nose especially when running a spool.
So does that mean high rear pins will help settle down to much rotation? My car is turning in great but doesn't want to stop rotating causing me to have to be realy carefull getting back on power.

I've tried different camber link combinations and different spring rates but it always wants to keep turning. The only thing working is very soft(10.5lb) rear springs.

Thanks for continuing to help out us Type R guy's.
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:30 PM   #9309
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Higher rear pins will usually give you more rear side bite, you may also consider running more toe in, i was runner 4 per side in rubber the last few races i ran a type r.
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:18 PM   #9310
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Hi Mike.

I'm one of the few peeps using the type R over here in the UK, I still think its great. I haven't done too bad with the car in Pro-stock (10.5 b/l). For this year going back to Mod. Should be fun (Losi better make lots of spares).

Would you able to post up or send me ( To post on my setup pages ) your final rubbers setups. Did you just use the 1 deg toe in blocks with the 2 deg pivot or did you achieve it another way.

Many thanks for all the help you gave us over the time with the team. All the best with the Mission.

Cheers

Tim
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:12 PM   #9311
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
Higher rear pins will usually give you more rear side bite, you may also consider running more toe in, i was runner 4 per side in rubber the last few races i ran a type r.
Well my swaybars should be here this week so I'll run them 1st then try high rollcenters the following meet.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:31 PM   #9312
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
Higher rear pins will usually give you more rear side bite, you may also consider running more toe in, i was runner 4 per side in rubber the last few races i ran a type r.


Mike, when running the higher rear pins do (did) you raise the rear inner camber link at the same time to keep the same camber gain ?
Thanks.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:47 PM   #9313
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Mike, when running the higher rear pins do (did) you raise the rear inner camber link at the same time to keep the same camber gain ?
Thanks.
Generally you try to match the angle to what you had before otherwise you are making two changes at once.
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:39 PM   #9314
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Mike, when running the higher rear pins do (did) you raise the rear inner camber link at the same time to keep the same camber gain ?
Thanks.
I'm sure mike has tried that link, but no we do not change it with the pin height, typically if we change the link it will be shorter, or going from inside to outside on the hub.
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:55 PM   #9315
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Anyone have any luck getting a Trinity 5000 mah lipo,TRI20808, to fit?

I bought one and it seems a little tall in the rear, but the front seems ok.
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