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Old 03-08-2009, 01:50 AM   #9286
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Which is better and why?
The EA3 plastic is the most recent plastic Losi has released. It is meant to be a bit more flexable and not break as easily.
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:23 AM   #9287
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Has anybody tried the 52% - 48% balance ratio that is recommended in the back of the instruction manual. Seems a bit extreme.
I ran my chassis with this balance today with the new speedy and wiring setup. Car was fast. I also ran it with the LTC-R for the 1st time so hard to guage the change VS the previous meet with the chassis but what ever the case I was 0.5sec faster on my best lap (14.7sec) than the next fastest 10.5 guy in the field. This was backed up by more than 10 14.8sec laps so it was no fluke. I tend to find that with front weight bias the car can feel a little loose in the rear on long extended turns so be prepared.

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Thanks for all of the input. I will move the ESC to the side once I get some longer motor wires. I'm new to the sport and have many questions about setup. I have only raced in two events. One was the Florida State series (17.5 class at Kississme Raceway and the other was a heads up 13.5 shootout at Superior Hobbies in Casselberry. Both events I raced a Corally RDX PHI, LRP SPX ESC, Novak 17.5/13.5 that I bought at Snowbirds. A good friend of mine owns the local hobby shop convinced me to partner up with him and start racing a product that he sells. So we chose the JRX-S and ordered six kits. Three for him and three for me. The plan is to race the 17.5 and the 13.5 class with a backup car each. Heres my next question. When I was walking around Snowbirds I saw people with these scales weighing their cars on all four tires. So I built one. Pics Below. Here is what I found. The car with body weighted 3lbs. 5.25oz. total. The Left Front 404 grams, Right Front 315 grams, Left Rear 342 grams, and Right Rear 448 grams. Racing outdoors on asphalt what numbers should I be looking for? Perfect balance or the 52/48 percent? Seams to be way off. I have a Corally Tweaker and tweaked it. It was way off. I had to loosen the Lipo tray to do so. I will move the ESC before I make any changes. Thanks again for the help.
1st of all buy 4 cars each to guarantee you have parts for 3. Both my kits had incorrect or missing parts. Losi seem to have a rep for this problem.

I have tried the scale thing and it dosen't seem to work out consistently. Its better to guage your tweak against properly setup droop. This produces a straight chassis everytime. To do your f/r balance stick something under the front and rear of your chassis under the axles and guage it there with either one or two sets of scales. The reading will be close enough. The chassis comes with holes in the bottom for l/r balancing so I suggest you use them too.

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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
Tried running a low rear roll center for the first time and noticed that it took away a lot of rear grip to the point I lost all confidence driving the car. Anyone else found this? I have also noticed that?
Most rubber/asphalt setups I have read have high front low rear roll center. Is that to find more steering?
Generally rubber runs low rollcenters. Mine are max low all round and car is fast. Higher rollcenters will decrease mid corner bite which can be done easily with swaybars.
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:32 AM   #9288
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Originally Posted by dcuz383 View Post
Thanks for all of the input. I will move the ESC to the side once I get some longer motor wires. I'm new to the sport and have many questions about setup. I have only raced in two events. One was the Florida State series (17.5 class at Kississme Raceway and the other was a heads up 13.5 shootout at Superior Hobbies in Casselberry. Both events I raced a Corally RDX PHI, LRP SPX ESC, Novak 17.5/13.5 that I bought at Snowbirds. A good friend of mine owns the local hobby shop convinced me to partner up with him and start racing a product that he sells. So we chose the JRX-S and ordered six kits. Three for him and three for me. The plan is to race the 17.5 and the 13.5 class with a backup car each. Heres my next question. When I was walking around Snowbirds I saw people with these scales weighing their cars on all four tires. So I built one. Pics Below. Here is what I found. The car with body weighted 3lbs. 5.25oz. total. The Left Front 404 grams, Right Front 315 grams, Left Rear 342 grams, and Right Rear 448 grams. Racing outdoors on asphalt what numbers should I be looking for? Perfect balance or the 52/48 percent? Seams to be way off. I have a Corally Tweaker and tweaked it. It was way off. I had to loosen the Lipo tray to do so. I will move the ESC before I make any changes. Thanks again for the help.
If I were you I'd save myself a huge hassle and just use a tweek station. Scales have there use in RC but touring cat is not where it is. They are way to precise and you can drive your self crazy trying to get it just right on them.
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:10 AM   #9289
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
Tried running a low rear roll center for the first time and noticed that it took away a lot of rear grip to the point I lost all confidence driving the car. Anyone else found this? I have also noticed that?
Most rubber/asphalt setups I have read have high front low rear roll center. Is that to find more steering?
I run mine with high front and low+30thou rear roll centers on rubber tyres on asphalt. Drives well, but am going lower on the rears for the next meet. Are your spring and damper rates the same as the high roll centers you had before?
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:26 AM   #9290
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I run mine with high front and low+30thou rear roll centers on rubber tyres on asphalt. Drives well, but am going lower on the rears for the next meet. Are your spring and damper rates the same as the high roll centers you had before?

Everything else was the same. I know changing the hight of the lower pins is one of the biggest changes you can make but this was huge. After the first run I went back to high rear roll center and it drove as I am used to. I really have been chasing rear grip the whole time I've had this car.

Does your car seem balanced with high front low rear? Are you after more steering or rear traction?

Will try low all round next time. Seems as though Dragonfire had his car workng like that today.
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:11 AM   #9291
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
Everything else was the same. I know changing the hight of the lower pins is one of the biggest changes you can make but this was huge. After the first run I went back to high rear roll center and it drove as I am used to. I really have been chasing rear grip the whole time I've had this car.

Does your car seem balanced with high front low rear? Are you after more steering or rear traction?

Will try low all round next time. Seems as though Dragonfire had his car workng like that today.
I run 17.5lb springs front and 12.5lb rears with diffs front and rear. The car was very balanced (for me). I tried low all around, but the car was very unresponsive compared with the current setup. Going to high front low rears has given me more stability.

When i first got the car i too was chasing rear traction. In comparision to other brands, the JRXS-R has a bit more steering than usual. I drove a T2 009 on the same track with the same tyres with a very similar setup (high front low rear) and it had gobs of rear traction. I think it has a lot to do with the flex of the chassis. The R has a very stiff chassis setup, and it can be a pain to dial it into a low grip track.

This is my 2 cents... others might have a differing opinion...
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:02 PM   #9292
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Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
I run 17.5lb springs front and 12.5lb rears with diffs front and rear. The car was very balanced (for me). I tried low all around, but the car was very unresponsive compared with the current setup. Going to high front low rears has given me more stability.

When i first got the car i too was chasing rear traction. In comparision to other brands, the JRXS-R has a bit more steering than usual. I drove a T2 009 on the same track with the same tyres with a very similar setup (high front low rear) and it had gobs of rear traction. I think it has a lot to do with the flex of the chassis. The R has a very stiff chassis setup, and it can be a pain to dial it into a low grip track.

This is my 2 cents... others might have a differing opinion...
I race at a low to medium grip carpet track and the type R seams to like heavier rear springs. I asked the same question about why other cars I have driven like the softer spring and low roll center combo and the R does not.

I think it the weight down the center does not allow for the same amount of weight transfer as other cars so spring pressure is needed to make the car "grip"

I have used a higher roll center in the rear to get more grip at times.
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:33 PM   #9293
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I moved the ESC and transponder. Here are the pics. Let me know what you think. The weight is close.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrx-s-rev-1-004.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrx-s-rev-1-006.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrx-s-rev-1-008.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrx-s-rev-1-015.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-jrx-s-rev-1-016.jpg  

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Old 03-08-2009, 07:48 PM   #9294
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I moved the ESC and transponder. Here are the pics. Let me know what you think. The weight is close.
looks good to me...what lipo is that in there..still running nimh here..
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:50 PM   #9295
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I moved the ESC and transponder. Here are the pics. Let me know what you think. The weight is close.
Thats a very clean setup. Might move my speedo from the right to the left now I've seen that.

Morris, looks like a losi lipo.
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:56 PM   #9296
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Thats a very clean setup. Might move my speedo from the right to the left now I've seen that.

Morris, looks like a losi lipo.
Have you rebuilt your shocks??
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:35 PM   #9297
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Have you rebuilt your shocks??
Yep. They feel super smooth. Have you had a chance to feel the difference between low and high roll centers?
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:55 PM   #9298
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Yep. They feel super smooth. Have you had a chance to feel the difference between low and high roll centers?
No but in general cases by lowering roll centre you will get more grip everywhere. and by raising them you will get less grip more stability but increase response high speed steering and corner speed. usually for carpet or foam you raise front and drop rear for rubber on asphalt you raise rear and lower front or run the same!! when you changed did you check droop again and check ride height and all the usual ? if not then by lowering rear you will have no droop and ride height will be too high!
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:21 PM   #9299
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No but in general cases by lowering roll centre you will get more grip everywhere. and by raising them you will get less grip more stability but increase response high speed steering and corner speed. usually for carpet or foam you raise front and drop rear for rubber on asphalt you raise rear and lower front or run the same!! when you changed did you check droop again and check ride height and all the usual ? if not then by lowering rear you will have no droop and ride height will be too high!
I tried a setup that seems common between the top USA drivers. Most seem to run High front and low rear roll centers for rubber/asphalt. It took me half a lap to relize it turned in so hard I couldn't keep the back from coming around. As soon I changed back to high all round I was quite fast. I will head out for a test day tomorrow and try some more combinations.
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:30 PM   #9300
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Interesting in that all the rubber setups I have run have been high front, low rear for rubber. Sometimes high front and medium rear. Medium rear would be low roll center with washers under it. Current rubber setup is high front with low rear and .03 anti squat. This is also a spool setup I am running currently on carpet.
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