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Old 03-01-2009, 12:32 PM   #9241
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Hi guys,

I recently bought and built up a Type R to race here in Australia. I haven't actually raced it yet as I'm going to try it out in 17.5T brushless stock (I tried a 10.5T brushless not having driven one before and found it too quick for my skill level just now). I have a couple of questions if I may:

(1) Can you buy the 4 degree C hubs just in pairs without the steering knuckles?

(2) Is the car considered to be generally pretty robust? In my couple of testing outings with the 10.5, clipped the boards pretty lightly and broke a suspension arm and a c-hub on separate occasions.

(3) Are there any aftermarket parts that are stronger than the kit parts? (like the aforementioned arms and c-hubs)

Thanks in advance,

Steve
1. C Hubs will always come with the spindles. I am usually the other way around and would rather have just the spindles.
2.The car is not that bad unless you tend to hit a lot of boards. There were a bad batch of A arms when the car first came out, but I would think they are gone by now. I use the Graphite C hubs as well as the rear hubs. They are from the original XXXS/JRXS. They seem to hold up alot better for me.
3.Aftermarket as in Aluminum? You don't want that for it will just end up tearing up something else on the car. Work on your driving and you won't be replacing said parts as often.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:15 PM   #9242
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Originally Posted by stephenianjames View Post
Hi guys,

I recently bought and built up a Type R to race here in Australia. I haven't actually raced it yet as I'm going to try it out in 17.5T brushless stock (I tried a 10.5T brushless not having driven one before and found it too quick for my skill level just now). I have a couple of questions if I may:

(1) Can you buy the 4 degree C hubs just in pairs without the steering knuckles?

(2) Is the car considered to be generally pretty robust? In my couple of testing outings with the 10.5, clipped the boards pretty lightly and broke a suspension arm and a c-hub on separate occasions.

(3) Are there any aftermarket parts that are stronger than the kit parts? (like the aforementioned arms and c-hubs)

Thanks in advance,

Steve
1st make sure you have the PRS spur adaptor as you will need it for 17.5 gearing.

The hubs and spindles come together but you can buy aftermarket alloy seprately.

I have only had the chassis for a limited time so far but it does seem to be quite strong. The EA3 material that the type R suspension is made of is very strong but brittle. It will take most hits well but everything brakes when you hit stuff eventually.

Where bouts in oz you race?
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:13 PM   #9243
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Thanks guys for the rapid responses.

I take it on board that upgrading to aluminium hubs will only transfer the breakage to another (and more expensive) component. I understand these parts are sacrificial but in 2 brief outings with the 10.5T, only lightly hit the boards causing the breakage.

I have bought the PRS adaptor to change the FDR...is about 3.5-3.6 about right?

Dragonfire...I race in Boronia in Melbourne weekly on Wednesday nights. Great club atmosphere and the track layout is changed each week, but unfortunately is defined by boards which takes it's toll. Having said that, I was racing a TA05 and TB03 in 540 pro...didn't hit the wall much but when I did, some hits were quite hard and only broke a c-hub once in quite a few races.

Thanks again guys...gotta work on my driving!

Steve
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:15 PM   #9244
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i'd really take a good look at this ride for nats in oct this yr since its takin place in my backyard. but can some1 point me to the correct # for the 1way unit and who actually has 1. all i hear is that no1 can get a 1way for the car.

thx

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Old 03-01-2009, 03:43 PM   #9245
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http://www.roguerc.com/product.php?productid=40951
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:05 PM   #9246
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1st make sure you have the PRS spur adaptor as you will need it for 17.5 gearing.

The hubs and spindles come together but you can buy aftermarket alloy seprately.

I have only had the chassis for a limited time so far but it does seem to be quite strong. The EA3 material that the type R suspension is made of is very strong but brittle. It will take most hits well but everything brakes when you hit stuff eventually.

Where bouts in oz you race?
Just asking but i do not know what is a PRS spur adaptor ? I plan on running a 17.5 turn brushless motor, do I need this? and also what is a good 17.5 motor, i am using a gtb esc? any info needed, thanks.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:12 PM   #9247
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Just asking but i do not know what is a PRS spur adaptor ? I plan on running a 17.5 turn brushless motor, do I need this? and also what is a good 17.5 motor, i am using a gtb esc? any info needed, thanks.
http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/products/18 This allows you to use smaller spurs then what Losi provides for the car. I would highly recommend it if you want to be able to get your gearing where you need it. I have one on all three of my cars.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:27 PM   #9248
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Just asking but i do not know what is a PRS spur adaptor ? I plan on running a 17.5 turn brushless motor, do I need this? and also what is a good 17.5 motor, i am using a gtb esc? any info needed, thanks.
The highest rollout you can achive with losi spurs is around 44mm which is way undergeared for a 17.5. The PRS adaptor as stated above allows you to run normal spurs so you can get small spurs for higher rollout.

There is a guy here in oz designing a replacment layshaft that has a normal spur adaptor on the end. This will solve both the spur gear problem and the lipo/pulley problem in one hit plus be 1/2 the weight of the stockl layshaft. Hoping he gets the new proto type done this week and I'll post a pic when I have it.
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:17 PM   #9249
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Working on a 4mm prototype right now for you Dragonfire.

Also in regards to 6deg caster. Been runnung 6deg for a few weeks at Windsor. The car seemed to maintain great turn in and be a little more stable on power out of tight turns where power oversteer used to trouble me.

The Losi setup guide say's more off and less on power steering with more caster which is about what I experienced. I always thought it was the other way around with other cars??
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:54 PM   #9250
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Thanks dragonforce and jaz, you guys were right on. Both diff springs were the wrong ones. Black and too long. Again, thanks for the help guys.
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:59 PM   #9251
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Thanks guys for the info on the spur gear adaptor, i will be getting one of those really soon.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:29 AM   #9252
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Can you believe that S%@T! C'mon Losi... Stop giving your packaging team free JB to drink during working hours! 2 kits both with incorrect or missing parts, BOTH spools with 41 pulleys instesad of 42's!

Time for some offensive e-mails




Yes mums tablecloth is great. The camera didn't like my white setup board so this actually worked good. Weights are on as well now minus 10g but have 20g on front bumper and around 90g on left front. Currently on 51/49% f/r. Would have liked more over the front.

Pull off the flat ring from the 41 T pulley and put it in the 42 T pulley
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:54 AM   #9253
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Hey guys,

Here's some pics of the pullies that i had lathed/turned down to clear some LiPos. I took about 1.2-1.5mm off each face (arrowed in red). There is a pic with the pullies assembled, and you can see the amount of clearance gained.

Looking at the pic with the pullies on the layshaft, if there are concerns about the drive pin for the front drive pulley slipping out, you can always slip an appropriately sized O ring over the drive pulley to stop that from happening.

Last 2 pics are of the wiring layout that I use with the wires along the side of the chassis. I use 3M 'Command' Decorating Clips (part number 17026) to hold the wire down with cable ties.

Hope this helps a few...




Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pict0147.jpg

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Team Losi JRXS Type-R-pict0154.jpg

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Old 03-02-2009, 07:24 AM   #9254
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Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
Hey guys,

Here's some pics of the pullies that i had lathed/turned down to clear some LiPos. I took about 1.2-1.5mm off each face (arrowed in red). There is a pic with the pullies assembled, and you can see the amount of clearance gained.

Looking at the pic with the pullies on the layshaft, if there are concerns about the drive pin for the front drive pulley slipping out, you can always slip an appropriately sized O ring over the drive pulley to stop that from happening.

Last 2 pics are of the wiring layout that I use with the wires along the side of the chassis. I use 3M 'Command' Decorating Clips (part number 17026) to hold the wire down with cable ties.

Hope this helps a few...




Attachment 424302

Attachment 424303

Attachment 424304

Attachment 424305

Attachment 424306
Just something to try, I had put weight on the top deck, even mounted the speedo up there once, the car feels better with all the weight down low, I think this car rolls enough that the weight up high can make it feel lazy.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:10 AM   #9255
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Just something to try, I had put weight on the top deck, even mounted the speedo up there once, the car feels better with all the weight down low, I think this car rolls enough that the weight up high can make it feel lazy.
Agreed... i've another 100g on the other side where it can't be seen... I've been trying to find a way to relocate the weights lower and still keep the balance to 50/50 front rear and left right. Might try finding space either side of the batts...

How much weight do you guys run? I've got about 160g...
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