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Old 02-28-2009, 01:18 PM   #9226
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Originally Posted by Hetfield6J View Post
Hi all. I'm new to electric sedan, and recently purchased a type-R. I must have made a mistake on the front diff assembly because when i turn any of the wheels without all the wheels moving, it loosens the diff to the point it would actually come apart if you kept turning. I un-assembled and re-assembled the diff with no effect. Any quick idea's on what may be causing it?

Thanks for any help.
Look for a mispackaged diff spring that is too long. In my friends kit they included two diff springs that were black in color and too long. The diff springs are silver and when installed the diff screw will be close to the "v" on the dif tube. The incorrect spring will show on the "v" area of the diff tube.
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Old 02-28-2009, 03:25 PM   #9227
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Default Need Help !! Losi type-r

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Last edited by Brooklyn41; 05-13-2009 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 02-28-2009, 04:20 PM   #9228
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ones that ive seen that are really small in the type-r are the orion 3200 carbon editions and the 3400 25c race spec orion as well. Maybe those will work.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:13 PM   #9229
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Hi,

what thermofans for the motor is recommended and where is the best place to locate them on the type R? i know there is 3 positions.

how do they get wired in?
can anyone help? i have a brushless 17.5 which runs pretty hot.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:20 PM   #9230
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can anyone help? i have a brushless 17.5 which runs pretty hot.
Fans seem pretty inefficient considering today's brushless motors and the lack of vents. There would be no penetrating cool, and only the outside will be slightly effected. Your best bet would be to gear down.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:24 PM   #9231
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Fans seem pretty inefficient considering today's brushless motors and the lack of vents. There would be no penetrating cool, and only the outside will be slightly effected. Your best bet would be to gear down.
yes the fan doesnt do crap correct me if im wrong but be close to a 3.5 fdr and that should lower the temp
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:47 PM   #9232
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Rubber Tire Newbie here...

Running pretty much Haynes setup on med bite carpet with Jaco Blues. Car works pretty good, but in a few corners wants to traction roll too easy. Have tried various changes, but really haven't gotten the traction roll out of it. Throw some ideas at me to try.

Thanks in advance.
i tride his set-up as well to....lay the front shocks down all the way...how are you setting droop?
i run 2mm over ride height...lmk
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:54 PM   #9233
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i tride his set-up as well to....lay the front shocks down all the way...how are you setting droop?
i run 2mm over ride height...lmk
when i have traction rolling problems i add more droop
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:28 PM   #9234
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i think that adding drrop makes it worse....


i ran mikes setup and i could not get it to tip......if anthing it was too stable.....

make sure the car is square and not bound up.....just how you set ride height, tweek, and droop can make your car handle poorly
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:48 PM   #9235
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yes the fan doesnt do crap correct me if im wrong but be close to a 3.5 fdr and that should lower the temp
Its quite simple a fan by itself won't do jack really but if you get a heat sink fan then you can drop your temps by 10 to 15 degrees. i think my heatsink fan is yeah racing. but basically with the extra surface area of the heatsink it has to first heat the heatsink but with the air flow from the fan it's harder to get hot. i recommend that you have thin long fins and that you run your fan at 7.2 volt. this enables me to go from 38mm rollout on my sp 10.5 to 41mm rollout without going over 75 degrees celcius and really wakes up the motor as sometimes undergearing is no good for some spec motors. hope this is helpful but i consider it a must to any spec racer!!
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:50 PM   #9236
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I'll run 6 degree on a large asphalt track... It has too little on-power steering for carpet though. On carpet i'll run 4 degrees, 2 degrees is a little much, and 0 degrees is damn near undrivable.
Are you running the 6 degree with rubber of foam on carpet? I run 4 degree with rubber and 6 with foam. There is plenty of on power steering when running them with foam. I personally never had an issue running the 4 degree on asphalt with rubber. That is the only hub I run on asphalt.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:33 AM   #9237
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Are you running the 6 degree with rubber of foam on carpet? I run 4 degree with rubber and 6 with foam. There is plenty of on power steering when running them with foam. I personally never had an issue running the 4 degree on asphalt with rubber. That is the only hub I run on asphalt.
Yeah, i should have specified that the 4 on carpet is rubber. On foam i forgot to mention that i ran 6 degree. I havn't ran foam since 2007 though.

About asphalt, it depends what track... If i go to a larger track (that caters more to the nitro guys) i'll run 6, a smaller track 4. I've never tried 8 degrees anywhere and i havn't found any practical use for 0 and 2, plus, its easier to keep a pit box full of 4's.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:19 AM   #9238
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Has anybody had any problem with servo arm going on a jr servo, i have the jrx-s type r and any suggestions on where to mount the esc and reciever I just got done building it I am going to run the novak gtb and futaba 2.4 reciever just curious where some good advice on mounting locations are any info would be helpful,thanks.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:44 AM   #9239
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Has anybody had any problem with servo arm going on a jr servo, i have the jrx-s type r and any suggestions on where to mount the esc and reciever I just got done building it I am going to run the novak gtb and futaba 2.4 reciever just curious where some good advice on mounting locations are any info would be helpful,thanks.
Mount them both towards the front of the car, it helps balance weight front to back.
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:22 PM   #9240
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Hi guys,

I recently bought and built up a Type R to race here in Australia. I haven't actually raced it yet as I'm going to try it out in 17.5T brushless stock (I tried a 10.5T brushless not having driven one before and found it too quick for my skill level just now). I have a couple of questions if I may:

(1) Can you buy the 4 degree C hubs just in pairs without the steering knuckles?

(2) Is the car considered to be generally pretty robust? In my couple of testing outings with the 10.5, clipped the boards pretty lightly and broke a suspension arm and a c-hub on separate occasions.

(3) Are there any aftermarket parts that are stronger than the kit parts? (like the aforementioned arms and c-hubs)

Thanks in advance,

Steve
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