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Old 02-11-2009, 10:01 PM   #9001
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Zip file is Invalid
attached is the file again.. I also included my version of the setup sheet

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So has anyone come up with an ingenious way to mark their springs?
I mark my springs with a silver sharpie. I got mine at home depot. This works much better than adding weight or using the dremel to mark the spring.

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I was rebuilding the diff and noticed that no matter how tight I set the diff it still slips. I figured out that the suspect part is the plastic diff drive (LOSA3318). With all that aluminum it still acts like a plactic diff because of that one part. It can't stand up to the clamping force exerted by the screw.
Does anybody know of an aluminum replacement part ?
Thanks.
I had the same problem and fixed this by grinding a 4-40 nut small enough to slide into the hub. My diff never comes loose after this mod.
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File Type: zip Type R FDR.xls.zip (14.7 KB, 42 views)
File Type: zip setup sheet.xls.zip (22.5 KB, 31 views)
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:14 PM   #9002
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ive been running this car for about a year now and have only broke one c-hub, and ive had my share of meetings with the boards, did u file down the axel that sticks past the wheel nut? helps alot
you have to cut your axles other wise the c-hubs will break very easy... also I run a parma bumper on my cars
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:33 PM   #9003
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Interesting, I was wondering about that. Why would they design the diff to slip a little when everyone else has 'd' rings on both halves ? I would think the mod foam guys would
hate that.
Thanks.
I actually think it was designed this way for Mod drivers. Todd made mention of it that it allows a little slip to save the diffs from frequent rebuilds. So yes, it was made that way on purpose.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:38 AM   #9004
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you have to cut your axles other wise the c-hubs will break very easy... also I run a parma bumper on my cars
My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:41 AM   #9005
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My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!
Are you using the EA-3 or graphite parts? I have yet to break an EA-3 caster block in over a year of running the car.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:53 AM   #9006
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Havent broke a C hub in a year or so probably. EA3 is way more durable than the graphite.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:57 AM   #9007
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Are you using the EA-3 or graphite parts? I have yet to break an EA-3 caster block in over a year of running the car.
I'll have to check. I am still getting up to speed on this car. I suspect they are not EA3. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:58 AM   #9008
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My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!
I honestly believe that some batches of parts are better than others. I have put a kydex bymper from a phi under a hard parma bumper on my car (a few people at our track now run this), it needs some trimming, but nothing crazy, and 2 holes for the posts. This helps a lot.
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Old 02-12-2009, 08:06 AM   #9009
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ive been running this car for about a year now and have only broke one c-hub, and ive had my share of meetings with the boards, did u file down the axel that sticks past the wheel nut? helps alot
same here.


with my xray, I was breaking chub almost everynight. + the xray part are double the price of losi price !!!!!

do you have a good bumper?
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Old 02-12-2009, 08:17 AM   #9010
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Just checked and my C hubs are EA3.

The only bumper on the car is the Losi foam bumper with the small plastic bumper assembly that holds the body posts.

I am not a beginner, so its not a constant crashfest or anything.
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Old 02-12-2009, 08:33 AM   #9011
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I havenít cut my axles yet and I havenít broken a c hub in about a year.
But now that I say that I will break one the next time out
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:40 PM   #9012
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anyone know where i can get a conversion kit to turn a jrxs to a type r
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:46 PM   #9013
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anyone know where i can get a conversion kit to turn a jrxs to a type r
Both cars only really share spur gears, spur shafts, bearings, hubs and caster blocks... It really wouldn't be worth it. It would be FAR more economical to purchase either a new or used Type R.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:50 PM   #9014
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Both cars only really share spur gears, spur shafts, bearings, hubs and caster blocks... It really wouldn't be worth it. It would be FAR more economical to purchase either a new or used Type R.
Glad I read that. I was leaning towards upgrading.
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:40 PM   #9015
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Glad I read that. I was leaning towards upgrading.
Chassis's are completely different. The only upgrade would be to sell your JRXS and get a Type R.
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