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Old 01-31-2009, 11:43 PM   #8926
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Ok guys.... I think I have sorted out what you get in the kit and what else you need. I still have to find out what shock pistons it comes with but they are cheap so will make little difference to the cost.

So to run 2 cars I though I would get the following...

3x kits $329.99
2x Losi JRX-S Type R Rear Hub Carriers -0.5 degree, EA3 (2) $4.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Hub Carriers-0 degree, EA3 (2) $4.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Front Spindles and Carriers-4 degree, EA3 $7.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Front Upper Suspension Arms, EA3 (2) $7.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Front Suspension Arms, EA3 (2) $5.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Rear Suspension Arms, EA3 (2) $8.95
4x Losi JRX-S Type R Front or Rear Sway Bar Set (4 bars) $11.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R RCD Driveshaft Set, 45mm $25.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R LCD Driveshaft Set, 45mm $33.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R RCD Rebuild Kit $5.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R LCD Rebuild Kit $7.95
2x Losi JRX-S Kevlar Spur Gear-48 pitch, 90 tooth $3.95
2x Losi JRX-S Kevlar Spur Gear-48 pitch, 92 tooth $3.95
2x Losi JRX-S Kevlar Spur Gear-48 pitch, 94 tooth $3.95
4x Losi JRX-S Spool Pulley and Pads, 42 tooth $8.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Front Drive Belt $8.95
1x Losi JRX-S Type R Rear Drive Belt $6.95
4x Losi JRX-S Type R Diff Hub $7.95
4x Losi JRX-S Type R Diff Outdrive $5.95
2x Losi JRX-S Type R 10mm Shock Springs-.75" x 12.5 rate (2) $2.95
2x Losi JRX-S Type R 10mm Shock Springs-.75" x 15 rate (2) $2.95
2x Losi JRX-S Type R 10mm Shock Springs-.75" x 20 rate (2) $2.95

This is for rubber/asphalt racing. I believe I have all the logic spares covered and with a spare kit I have the odd spares (like decks/bulkheads) covered too. Let me know if there are any common parts that wear/break easy that I have missed considering one is for 10.5 and one is for mod.

Cheers.
i would get 4 arms, front and rear....they only go in one place....so it isnt that many

and many more caster blocks....like 6....or more...these go in spurts....

just my .02
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Old 01-31-2009, 11:51 PM   #8927
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Originally Posted by mr. losi View Post
i would get 4 arms, front and rear....they only go in one place....so it isnt that many

and many more caster blocks....like 6....or more...these go in spurts....

just my .02
Cheers thanks for the input.... I'll add an extra set of arms and caster blocks although there are only two tracks I would consider hard on the car in Sydney. Any idea about the shock pistons? Whats in the kit? I noticed stormer is out of stock of the white pistons (which look the smallest). Are they the popular ones?

Thanks..
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:31 AM   #8928
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Cheers thanks for the input.... I'll add an extra set of arms and caster blocks although there are only two tracks I would consider hard on the car in Sydney. Any idea about the shock pistons? Whats in the kit? I noticed stormer is out of stock of the white pistons (which look the smallest). Are they the popular ones?

Thanks..
the kit comes with 56...i use 57 frt and 56 rear...
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Old 02-01-2009, 02:46 AM   #8929
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If you are planning to run LiPos, don't forget to get the drive pullies that sit on the layshaft machined down 2 or so mm to clear the side of the LiPo, but that will depend a lot on what brand LiPos you run. I had to machine mine down to fit the IP3800 packs.

PM me if anyone here needs pics on what to do.. I had my machinist turn them down for me on a lathe.
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Old 02-01-2009, 02:49 AM   #8930
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Let me know if there are any common parts that wear/break easy that I have missed considering one is for 10.5 and one is for mod.

Cheers.
Order yourself 4x sets of diff balls and HD thrust bearings along with the diff screw and springs, 2x packets of diff rings of each type (1packet does both front and rear diffs).
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:56 AM   #8931
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Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
If you are planning to run LiPos, don't forget to get the drive pullies that sit on the layshaft machined down 2 or so mm to clear the side of the LiPo, but that will depend a lot on what brand LiPos you run. I had to machine mine down to fit the IP3800 packs.

PM me if anyone here needs pics on what to do.. I had my machinist turn them down for me on a lathe.
Thats a funny question.. Who dosen't run lipo?

Are you sure you need to mod the jrx-s type r for lipo? The pics on the losi site show a lipo in the chassis so it must clear the pullies. What ever the case it sounds very simple to do if it what I think. A file and a 3.5 will fix the problem real quick.
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Old 02-01-2009, 05:09 AM   #8932
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Yep... there's some posts on this page.

Team Losi JRXS Type-R
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:23 AM   #8933
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Yep... there's some posts on this page.

Team Losi JRXS Type-R
Thanks for that... Looks like a bit of everything really.. but if its only a bit then it is no serious issue. I currently run a couple of the IP3800's, a couple of Chargery 5200's and a Feral 5000. I should be able to mod anything I need to easy enuf at home if this is the case.

Currently researching source for kits and parts both locally and overseas. I would prefer locally if the price is sensible (which it sounds like). But currently 90% certain this is my next car.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:59 AM   #8934
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The Lipo fitament issue is more about the Lipos then the car it's self. There seems to be no standard sizing when it comes to cases for Lipos. They are all over the place. The Orions and any ones that look like them are the worst since they are so wide.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:05 AM   #8935
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Dragonfire,

I coudn't attach files on PM so here is my setup.
I think 10.5lb rear springs were causing the rear to bottom out. This could explain the unpredictable rear end through some of the high speed turns. Most setups I've read have higher spring rates on the back than 10.5.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf JRXS-R_Setup 30_01_09.pdf (400.6 KB, 114 views)
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:35 PM   #8936
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Dragonfire,

I coudn't attach files on PM so here is my setup.
I think 10.5lb rear springs were causing the rear to bottom out. This could explain the unpredictable rear end through some of the high speed turns. Most setups I've read have higher spring rates on the back than 10.5.
Most normal TC setups use around 15lbs on the rear and 18lbs on the front.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:01 PM   #8937
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I recently picked up a corally, and I have some old xray springs, a 17lb spring between the 3 brands are very different stiffness's dues too the different way the springs are made, with the losi being softer than the others.
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:40 PM   #8938
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I recently picked up a corally, and I have some old xray springs, a 17lb spring between the 3 brands are very different stiffness's dues too the different way the springs are made, with the losi being softer than the others.
What you are refering to is progressiveness. The more progressive the spring, the less compression is required for it to get harder. Considering the short arm configuration of the losi will limit roll anyway, a less progressive spring should be better.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:44 PM   #8939
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
Dragonfire,

I coudn't attach files on PM so here is my setup.
I think 10.5lb rear springs were causing the rear to bottom out. This could explain the unpredictable rear end through some of the high speed turns. Most setups I've read have higher spring rates on the back than 10.5.
hey its darren here from the other night. if you were running 10 pound then that was part of the problem the rear was taking to long to settle in. but the car is certainly nice to drive just a bit of practice of driving on power. but i did have a tc5 before and they talked about running green springs on the rear which were only 15 so i couldnt see it needing any less than 12.5 and the most
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Old 02-02-2009, 01:02 PM   #8940
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I only have 1 problem with my type R and that is the diff.

Whenever i put it together it just doesn't feel smooth.

I've tried different diff balls, different lubricant,...
But still it feels like it has sand in it although it is as clean as can be.

It is always like this and has been like this from the beginning.
This is my 5th electric car and i never had a problem like this.

Does everybody have this problem with the Type R diffs ?
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