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Old 11-19-2008, 06:49 PM   #8491
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the IRS has a distinctive dead spot on center, I found that I needed 7g more on one side when I compared between what was balanced between the hudy and the IRS. The IRS are easier to use, but less accurate. Is getting within 7g enough, yeah for mortals and fairtrace, some people buy 4 digital scales to get it to the .1th
Mike, don't start with the 4 digital scales. Larry might come on here guns blazing about that. I remember Snowbirds '06. Larry and I were running FK05s and were using scales to tweak the cars. Larry's car was always off for some reason. I've NEVER seen anyone tear a car down soo many times as I saw Larry rebuild that FK05 trying to figure it out. That year, we both didn't make the stock TC A main. A week later, we started using an MIP tweak station and NEVER had a problem since. Scales can be inconsistent and you MUST put the car in the same exact spot every time in order to get an accurate reading.

I, too, haven't balanced my cars lately with the switch to Lipo/BL. I'm sure the balance is off on my cars as well, but so far, I haven't seen any true ill effects which means it can't be that far off. I'm also running the speedo on the left like Larry.
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:56 PM   #8492
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Don't forget to add weight to the reciever side. I have 28g on the right side.
That is the differance between my reciever and speedo.

RedRocket
Also wanted to add that with this combo and the plastic lipo tray, I am about 5g over weight.

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Old 11-19-2008, 06:57 PM   #8493
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Mike, don't start with the 4 digital scales. Larry might come on here guns blazing about that. I remember Snowbirds '06. Larry and I were running FK05s and were using scales to tweak the cars. Larry's car was always off for some reason. I've NEVER seen anyone tear a car down soo many times as I saw Larry rebuild that FK05 trying to figure it out. That year, we both didn't make the stock TC A main. A week later, we started using an MIP tweak station and NEVER had a problem since. Scales can be inconsistent and you MUST put the car in the same exact spot every time in order to get an accurate reading.

I, too, haven't balanced my cars lately with the switch to Lipo/BL. I'm sure the balance is off on my cars as well, but so far, I haven't seen any true ill effects which means it can't be that far off. I'm also running the speedo on the left like Larry.
problem with scales is that each scale is slightly different than the other, even from same brand and model...you'll almost never get an exact reading from 2 scales.

By the way in 06, didnt you drive a Surikarn Cyclone as well?
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #8494
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Mike, don't start with the 4 digital scales. Larry might come on here guns blazing about that. I remember Snowbirds '06. Larry and I were running FK05s and were using scales to tweak the cars. Larry's car was always off for some reason. I've NEVER seen anyone tear a car down soo many times as I saw Larry rebuild that FK05 trying to figure it out. That year, we both didn't make the stock TC A main. A week later, we started using an MIP tweak station and NEVER had a problem since. Scales can be inconsistent and you MUST put the car in the same exact spot every time in order to get an accurate reading.

I, too, haven't balanced my cars lately with the switch to Lipo/BL. I'm sure the balance is off on my cars as well, but so far, I haven't seen any true ill effects which means it can't be that far off. I'm also running the speedo on the left like Larry.

Lol, that must have been a sight. The few times I've been able to put my car on more than one tweak station, from laser to the unity, my used $20 MIP gave the same results. I started putting the speedo on the left, getting it forward seemed to get the f/r balance almost right on it's own. I only check it if I switch electronics, but since some of us can't "drive a wreck" we waste more time trying to get the car perfect
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:45 PM   #8495
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has anyone else had their high dollar front one way bearing fall apart? Unfortunatley you have to buy the entire oneway tube for 45 bucks and can't find the oneway bearing to just replace it. Has anyone else had this happen?
yes i have...
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:35 AM   #8496
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problem with scales is that each scale is slightly different than the other, even from same brand and model...you'll almost never get an exact reading from 2 scales.

By the way in 06, didnt you drive a Surikarn Cyclone as well?
I agree on the scales part.

And no, here's my car tenure from SnowBirds before signing with Losi...

2004 - Yokomo MR4TC-SD
2005 - Yokomo MR4TC-SD
2006 - Xray FK05
2007 - HB Cyclone (Standard Car) in Stock TC and X-Ray '007 in 19T
2008 - Losi Type R

I only actually ran the Surikarn Cyclone at the IIC in 2006.

I started running for Losi in March '07 and haven't looked back.
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:40 AM   #8497
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yes i have...
The reason the type-r oneway is more expensive is that there are 2 one way bearings in it due to the width of our diff, other cars get away with a single bearing.
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:47 AM   #8498
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I agree on the scales part.

And no, here's my car tenure from SnowBirds before signing with Losi...

2004 - Yokomo MR4TC-SD
2005 - Yokomo MR4TC-SD
2006 - Xray FK05
2007 - HB Cyclone (Standard Car) in Stock TC and X-Ray '007 in 19T
2008 - Losi Type R

I only actually ran the Surikarn Cyclone at the IIC in 2006.

I started running for Losi in March '07 and haven't looked back.
dont forget the BMI Cyclone
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:38 AM   #8499
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hey guys, will using 30wt oil and 17lb springs all around make a car more reactive or more lazy than using 40wt oil and 17lb springs all around on the same surface? I'm trying figure out which oil & spring combination makes cars more responsive vs more smooth and stable. Sorry for the silly question
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:58 AM   #8500
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yes i have...
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hey guys, will using 30wt oil and 17lb springs all around make a car more reactive or more lazy than using 40wt oil and 17lb springs all around on the same surface? I'm trying figure out which oil & spring combination makes cars more responsive vs more smooth and stable. Sorry for the silly question
Softer dampening will have the lazier feel, but might also have more grip.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:23 AM   #8501
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hey guys, will using 30wt oil and 17lb springs all around make a car more reactive or more lazy than using 40wt oil and 17lb springs all around on the same surface? I'm trying figure out which oil & spring combination makes cars more responsive vs more smooth and stable. Sorry for the silly question
I would think it will be more reactive as it has less dampening.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:40 AM   #8502
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I would think it will be more reactive as it has less dampening.
Doesn't stiffer/more damped respond faster since the weight is transferred faster instead of absorbed in roll?


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Old 11-20-2008, 09:58 AM   #8503
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Doesn't stiffer/more damped respond faster since the weight is transferred faster instead of absorbed in roll?


heavier damping makes the car more stable and makes it handle more smoothly, when damping is too heavy,traction could be lost in bumpy sections and can also change direction slower.

softer damping makes the car react quicker
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:20 PM   #8504
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Have an odd setup issue that I think I have figured out but just checking for some other feedback...

I last raced my Type R at the USVTA Nationals. Carpet track using the HPI tires and inserts and all. Anyways my car worked really well for the first 2-3 minutes. It was fast, smooth, basically a monkey car. The last 2-minutes or so the rear end would get looser and looser to the point the car was un-driveable. To this point I had thought of a few possibilities:

1) The front tires were taking that long to come up to temp
2) The rear tires were getting overheated by that point
3) There was air in the shocks and it was taking that long to affect the handling
4) The tires were picking up crap from the track, causing a build-up problem.

Going back to a conversation that I had with Billy Fischer back at the Horizon Hobby Shootout, I think I may have found the issue
5) The diff lube was breaking down and causing the diffs to overly diff-out.

I was using the brown Losi grease on the thrust bearings and the clear Losi stuff on the balls. I just rebuilt the diffs with AE Stealth and Black grease on the balls and on the thrust assembly. I also replaced the thrust washer assembly by tossing the thrust cages and using a total of 8-thrust balls on each diff in lieu of the standard 6. I won't be able to test this till Sunday, but I ran the exact same tires/tire dope on a different chassis 2-weeks ago and it never happened. It's not a tire deal, it's gotta be a chassis/setup deal. Any thoughts?

OH, and me sucking as a driver IS a valid explanation too
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:40 PM   #8505
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Definately break in the diff after a rebuild, clean the tires really really well and apply something like jack the gripper to them afterwords (a major help for me when combating buildup with jaco blues at my local track), perhaps take some weight off of the front, such as stiffer spring, more front downtravle, etc.

I have never ran with hpi vintage tires though, so it seems as if it may be a tire issue.
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