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Old 11-12-2008, 08:37 PM   #8416
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The stock thrust bearing seems to desintegrate after a a few runs with mod motors, and should last a while with 10.5/13.5BL power...any other thrust bearings you guys recommend? Will Xray T2 work?
the xray thrust bearing is perfect, havent replaced mine in 6months. I am racing with it every weekends.

but if you can find the losi ones theyre much cheaper and works great too just lube it properly and set the diff right.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:42 PM   #8417
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Man I love this car! Just had to throw that out there...

Last Friday was my first club race with the car. Tight indoor carpet track with foams. There were 7 sedans and for my first race I couldn't believe how hooked up I was. People were coming up to me and raving about the car... I owe a lot to this thread I guess, but the car is just dialed. Competition consisted of another Type R, a TC4, 2 XXXS's and an old saddle pack XRay. My results were 3rd, 1st, 2nd, 3rd in the main. Poor results were totally my fault as an amateur on-roader, but I'll get em this week.

As a side note, does anyone make alloy castor blocks out there? I saw some earlier posts on using Tamalie TC5 blocks, but that's it. I've snapped a couple now and it seems to be the weak spot on the car. I'd pay for a set of 4 degree blocks!

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where are u ordering from...losi parts house?
Sorry for the late response... My local shop had the tray on back order for a couple months now and finally got it in!
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:49 PM   #8418
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No alloy ones I am aware of, but if you have axle protruding out past the nut I suggest you cut it down flush with the nut so it is not catching the boards. That can be an issue causing you to break hubs. Well not causing, but helping out when you are hitting boards.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:09 AM   #8419
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No alloy ones I am aware of, but if you have axle protruding out past the nut I suggest you cut it down flush with the nut so it is not catching the boards. That can be an issue causing you to break hubs. Well not causing, but helping out when you are hitting boards.
Ha! Thanks for schoolin the noob... ( I didn't see the purpose of trimming the axels until your post. Duh. )
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:21 AM   #8420
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3 magicians because i have only blown 1 thrust bearing. And you were gracious enough to provide me with a new one.
Now I know what was wrong with your old car.
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:56 AM   #8421
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I haven't yet tried the mcmaster but I have tried the offroad losi (non caged) and the Axiom set, I prefer the axiom because it's caged,
We now have the solid caged with ceramic balls pressed in for an even smoother diff and the solid brass piece is a little thicker now to hold up even longer.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:15 PM   #8422
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Now I know what was wrong with your old car.
It is running great for me.
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Old 11-15-2008, 12:15 AM   #8423
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Alright, so building my second jrxs-r. First one I bought used.

Building the diffs, it seems the diff spring is too long. I noticed that it didn't seem right for the thrust bearing to be exposed, tightening one for a while figuring it would collapse the spring, but eventually I heard a loud crack and it didn't compress the spring at all.

Finally took apart a diff from the first car. Comparing the diff springs, the correct one is silver in color, 3 turns in the spring and .267in. The ones I got in this kit are black in color, 4 turns in the spring and .429 in.

Suggestions?
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Old 11-15-2008, 01:17 AM   #8424
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I have a pair of ti ball studs from Losi to set up a front camber link on my car in case I wanted to ditch the JR link. (Part #LOSA9949)

I would like to set up a long rear camber link set-up on my car... I know I need a 1 inch Lunsford turnbuckle, but does anyone know the correct ball stud to get for the outer hub carrier position? Will the one I have work or is there too much thread? I see "long ball stud" a lot in set ups, but which one?
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:08 AM   #8425
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Originally Posted by JoelV View Post
Alright, so building my second jrxs-r. First one I bought used.

Building the diffs, it seems the diff spring is too long. I noticed that it didn't seem right for the thrust bearing to be exposed, tightening one for a while figuring it would collapse the spring, but eventually I heard a loud crack and it didn't compress the spring at all.

Finally took apart a diff from the first car. Comparing the diff springs, the correct one is silver in color, 3 turns in the spring and .267in. The ones I got in this kit are black in color, 4 turns in the spring and .429 in.

Suggestions?
the silver one is the right one, the black one sounds like a XXX-CR slipper spring.
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:44 AM   #8426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelV View Post
Alright, so building my second jrxs-r. First one I bought used.

Building the diffs, it seems the diff spring is too long. I noticed that it didn't seem right for the thrust bearing to be exposed, tightening one for a while figuring it would collapse the spring, but eventually I heard a loud crack and it didn't compress the spring at all.

Finally took apart a diff from the first car. Comparing the diff springs, the correct one is silver in color, 3 turns in the spring and .267in. The ones I got in this kit are black in color, 4 turns in the spring and .429 in.

Suggestions?
JoelV- I had the same issue. Losi packaged the diff spring out of a gen 2 off-road transmission instead of the short diff spring. Call Losi customer service and they will take care of you.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:44 AM   #8427
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Hmm... seems to be like the packing division has occasional hic-ups... I received a 41 tooth pulley with the one-way and a JRX-S 42 pulley in a JRXS-R pulley set...
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:47 AM   #8428
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Originally Posted by Uncle Cliffy View Post
I have a pair of ti ball studs from Losi to set up a front camber link on my car in case I wanted to ditch the JR link. (Part #LOSA9949)

I would like to set up a long rear camber link set-up on my car... I know I need a 1 inch Lunsford turnbuckle, but does anyone know the correct ball stud to get for the outer hub carrier position? Will the one I have work or is there too much thread? I see "long ball stud" a lot in set ups, but which one?
You don't have to get the Lunsford turnbuckle if you don't want to. I use offroad ball cups on the tower side of the link to give me the length I need to run the long camber link. You have to cut a little off to get it to work right but cheaper then buying turn buckles. The long ball stud has nothing to do with the thread, but how high the head of the ball stud sticks up from the base.
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:19 AM   #8429
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Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
You don't have to get the Lunsford turnbuckle if you don't want to. I use offroad ball cups on the tower side of the link to give me the length I need to run the long camber link. You have to cut a little off to get it to work right but cheaper then buying turn buckles. The long ball stud has nothing to do with the thread, but how high the head of the ball stud sticks up from the base.
Cool. I have some RPM ball cups that I thought would work for that. Is it maybe better to get some of the grey "hard" ball cups instead?

On the ball stud question; I thought it wasn't the thread length... What ball stud should I get though?
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Old 11-15-2008, 11:32 AM   #8430
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I got my Type R all put together. Tomorrow will be the first race. I am a rookie to electric onroad, but am very experienced in 1/8th buggy. I have a question. I am using a novak gtb with 10.5 motor and foam tires. What throttle profile on the speed control should I use? The track is a tight small course with lots of low speed turns.
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