R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-18-2008, 07:13 AM   #7846
Tech Elite
 
Yeti35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdog View Post
Hey guys just got my losi r put together and was wonder about the spool mainly the correct way to install it. Do you still use the thrust bearing and spring? Thanks any any help i can get.
Yes, you still use the thrust bearing and the spring. It goes together like the diff except you lock it down for no movement at all. Don't go too nuts on tightening it or you can strip the outdrive.
__________________
JRXS Type R, I have four of them!! ;) ( Yes, I still have them!!)
22 2.0
22T 2.0
Yeti35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2008, 11:16 AM   #7847
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,297
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Any tips for freeing up the tie rod ends? I tried to install the rpm ones and they are very tight..
thanks
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Reds Racing USA|Hot Race Tyres USA|Team CRC|Team Trinity|
Jackson RC|Horsham RC|Floyd Bennett|Blue Diamond
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2008, 11:42 AM   #7848
Tech Elite
 
Yeti35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Any tips for freeing up the tie rod ends? I tried to install the rpm ones and they are very tight..
thanks
I just use the ones that came with the car and never had a tightness issue at all. I do have standard long ball cups on the rear of my car to get a long camber link but I am using the Losi grey ball cups for that. I just have those in my box from my offroad stuff. They are not tight on the ballstud either.
__________________
JRXS Type R, I have four of them!! ;) ( Yes, I still have them!!)
22 2.0
22T 2.0
Yeti35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2008, 12:35 PM   #7849
Tech Addict
 
J@UNE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 621
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default For RPMs ball studs,

Once they are poped on, use some plyer to squish them over the ball stud...

I usualy do that 3-4 times and they become free enough.
J@UNE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2008, 03:49 PM   #7850
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,297
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
I just use the ones that came with the car and never had a tightness issue at all. I do have standard long ball cups on the rear of my car to get a long camber link but I am using the Losi grey ball cups for that. I just have those in my box from my offroad stuff. They are not tight on the ballstud either.
I have those too but wanted to try the rpm ones.

Quote:
Once they are poped on, use some plyer to squish them over the ball stud...

I usualy do that 3-4 times and they become free enough.
I will give that a try
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Reds Racing USA|Hot Race Tyres USA|Team CRC|Team Trinity|
Jackson RC|Horsham RC|Floyd Bennett|Blue Diamond
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2008, 08:12 PM   #7851
Tech Regular
 
MaxRain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 418
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
I just use the ones that came with the car and never had a tightness issue at all. I do have standard long ball cups on the rear of my car to get a long camber link but I am using the Losi grey ball cups for that. I just have those in my box from my offroad stuff. They are not tight on the ballstud either.
do you know what the part number is on those ball cups?
__________________
Gordon
Stock Car - Xray T3, Modified Car - Xray T4 '14; Xray X1; Tamiya M-06
My Youtube Channel: search "CARCAR videos" or follow this link https://youtu.be/owXBpsQkyjE
Facebook: CARCAR
MaxRain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2008, 09:33 PM   #7852
Tech Fanatic
 
vabroom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: dark side of the moon
Posts: 893
Default

Here all the Losi's ball cups:

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Categories

Sorry no dimensions.
vabroom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2008, 10:35 PM   #7853
Tech Elite
 
Yeti35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
do you know what the part number is on those ball cups?
Here is the stock kit ones: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...aptured/Detail

Here is the ones I used for the long camber link in the rear: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...id-Ball/Detail

I was not sure which ones you were asking about.
__________________
JRXS Type R, I have four of them!! ;) ( Yes, I still have them!!)
22 2.0
22T 2.0
Yeti35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2008, 08:32 AM   #7854
Tech Regular
 
MaxRain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 418
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
Here is the stock kit ones: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...aptured/Detail

Here is the ones I used for the long camber link in the rear: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...id-Ball/Detail

I was not sure which ones you were asking about.
the part # 6016 is what I was looking for. I too have tried making the link longer with the standard size cups that come with the kit, but I find that if you hit the wall it is a little fragile. The inside part of the cup doesn't seem to hold well. Largely due to the titanium rod beeing a little on the short side.

Thanks
__________________
Gordon
Stock Car - Xray T3, Modified Car - Xray T4 '14; Xray X1; Tamiya M-06
My Youtube Channel: search "CARCAR videos" or follow this link https://youtu.be/owXBpsQkyjE
Facebook: CARCAR
MaxRain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2008, 09:58 AM   #7855
Tech Elite
 
schreff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to schreff
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
the part # 6016 is what I was looking for. I too have tried making the link longer with the standard size cups that come with the kit, but I find that if you hit the wall it is a little fragile. The inside part of the cup doesn't seem to hold well. Largely due to the titanium rod beeing a little on the short side.

Thanks
Guys... just a quick FYI...

When Larry and I switched to using the long link in the rear, as in hole 4 on the tower and B on the hub, we replaced the small titanium tierod with a 1" Lunsford tierod. The 1" tierod is thicker and longer eliminating ball cup issues. Ever since switching to that, we never broke another rear ball cup or even had them pop off. For anyone running a longer rear link, get yourself a pair of the 1" lunsfords.
__________________
-Jason Schreffler-
TLR|Horizon Hobby|Spektrum|AKA|Team CRC|CR Graphics|TQ Wire|Radio Impound Podcast
schreff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2008, 11:50 AM   #7856
Ty
Tech Regular
 
Ty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 499
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Schreff,
Is the 1" exact length enough for that or will I need 1.125 or 1.25 or will those be too long? Thanks for the suggestion as I have had that problem and this will solve it.
Ty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2008, 12:49 PM   #7857
Tech Elite
 
schreff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to schreff
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ty View Post
Schreff,
Is the 1" exact length enough for that or will I need 1.125 or 1.25 or will those be too long? Thanks for the suggestion as I have had that problem and this will solve it.
Ty,

1" is the exact length of the tierod that we are using.
__________________
-Jason Schreffler-
TLR|Horizon Hobby|Spektrum|AKA|Team CRC|CR Graphics|TQ Wire|Radio Impound Podcast
schreff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2008, 07:39 PM   #7858
Tech Regular
 
MaxRain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 418
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by schreff View Post
Ty,

1" is the exact length of the tierod that we are using.
Schreff, thanks for the tip.. I was thinking of doing something like this also, as I was looking at an associated tierod, length was 0.825".

Seeing that you use the 1", I will make my way and pick a set up.

Also, for those who are curious, I got my Platinum Two's today.. Fit in the Type R with no mods, using both the plastic lipo tray and with the losi weighted lipo tray.

Will post picks later..
__________________
Gordon
Stock Car - Xray T3, Modified Car - Xray T4 '14; Xray X1; Tamiya M-06
My Youtube Channel: search "CARCAR videos" or follow this link https://youtu.be/owXBpsQkyjE
Facebook: CARCAR
MaxRain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2008, 05:51 AM   #7859
Tech Regular
 
JRXS_chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester, England
Posts: 386
Default An experiment...

In a quest for a little more tarmac capability I am conducting a little test next time out.

Them posts on the top deck are maintaining masses of chassis stiffness but this eliminates some of the tuning potential that the Xrays, Hotbodies etc can offer with regards to flex. Sooo off they come!

I had to dig around my parts box to see what I could use instead of the posts to keep the battery plate securely fastened. After a few minutes thinking and tinkering I found that some old XXXS shock towers would do the trick. I hacksawed off the camber link mounting holes and screwed them onto the chassis, the holes are perfectly placed.



You can see in the image what I have removed.



This is what the chassis looks like with them in place

(Apologies for the blur! Taken on my mobile!)

With the new bits on the chassis still resists tweak but offers a lot more flex.

Lets see how it goes!
JRXS_chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2008, 06:58 AM   #7860
Tech Elite
 
Yeti35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Are you running in a low bite situation in that you felt you needed flex for traction? I run on low bite as well but have a setup on the car that is planted and my post are still in the car. I think you need to look at your setup more rather then messing with chassis tweak by removing the post. There is no reason to remove them to get the car to handle. I am sure Schreff and Fairtrace would back me on this. Since they don't feel it is necessary to remove them either.
__________________
JRXS Type R, I have four of them!! ;) ( Yes, I still have them!!)
22 2.0
22T 2.0
Yeti35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
[FS] Team Losi JRXS-Type R squarehead R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 07-21-2012 12:59 AM
Team Losi JRXS Type R gtxpro2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 18 09-11-2008 08:45 PM
WTB: Team Losi JRXS Type R shifter R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 07-03-2008 03:30 PM
Team Losi JRXS TYPE-R John Q R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 10-03-2007 06:55 PM
Team Losi JRXS Type R New In Box Canyon R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 06-20-2007 04:50 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:09 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0