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Old 08-05-2008, 09:14 AM   #7756
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There is NO question that the JRX-S Type R can keep up with Xray or RDX or any other Touring Car for that matter.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:41 AM   #7757
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Why it is not on first positions on any european competition?? Is it in the USA?
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:50 AM   #7758
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Why it is not on first positions on any european competition?? Is it in the USA?
Because there is no more a "team" Losi in europe (at least in electric touring car) But the car is very good and can keep up with any other car in the market.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:56 AM   #7759
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Because there is no more a "team" Losi in europe (at least in electric touring car)
There are only a hand full of guys in the US still sponsered by Losi and none of them or full on Pro's. Nothing wrong with the car and it is quite capable of winning any race in the right hands. Schreff, Fairtrace and Haynes proved that.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:02 AM   #7760
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FS 2 complete cars and enough parts to build a kit (almost) see ad in sale/trade forum, included motors, tires, batteries, brand new GTX Speed control, throwing in XS3 Pro TRans + Receiver, Hudy all in one, lathe, brush cutter, brush serrator, and more $1000 + shipping
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:04 AM   #7761
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quite capable of winning any race in the right hands. Schreff, Fairtrace and Haynes proved that.


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Old 08-06-2008, 03:01 PM   #7762
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for rubber on asphalt what rear toe block are you guys using?
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:32 PM   #7763
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for rubber on asphalt what rear toe block are you guys using?
i run three, if i feel balsy enough, i'll try 2 but ive never liked it.
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:36 PM   #7764
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for rubber on asphalt what rear toe block are you guys using?
Larry and I usually end up with either a 0 or a 1 for a rear toe block.

Reason being... we always use 1 degree outboard hubs now. And don't forget the car has 1 degree built into the chassis plate. So if you run a 0 block with the 1 degree outboards, you're already at 2*. Lately, Larry has been running a 1* rear block to get 3* rear toe. I've pretty much stuck with the 0 block keeping 2* toe.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:04 PM   #7765
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Larry and I usually end up with either a 0 or a 1 for a rear toe block.

Reason being... we always use 1 degree outboard hubs now. And don't forget the car has 1 degree built into the chassis plate. So if you run a 0 block with the 1 degree outboards, you're already at 2*. Lately, Larry has been running a 1* rear block to get 3* rear toe. I've pretty much stuck with the 0 block keeping 2* toe.
Will it be noticable change to have the outboard toe in the rear of the car as compared to just the 3* in the block only? Explain why you guys are running the toe in the hub. What kind of a feel can someone expect fron that change?

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Old 08-06-2008, 06:11 PM   #7766
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Anyone get the Trinity Lipo 3800 25 to fit in the car with the Losi steel tray and no mods? Looking to buy that specific lipo pack as I have been hearing good things about it, but I do not want to grind away the bulkheads and center pulley clearance as well. Any firsthand feedback and experience is appreciated.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:14 PM   #7767
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Will it be noticable change to have the outboard toe in the rear of the car as compared to just the 3* in the block only? Explain why you guys are running the toe in the hub. What kind of a feel can someone expect fron that change?

RedRocket
I think Larry would agree with me with that the feel is almost like it makes the car lighter on it's feet. Especially on corner entry. The car seems to turn a little easier. We first got to try it on carpet and it was an awesome change that yielded us at least a tenth per lap easy. Since it worked soo well there, we just never went back to 0 degree hubs.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:21 PM   #7768
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Anyone get the Trinity Lipo 3800 25 to fit in the car with the Losi steel tray and no mods? Looking to buy that specific lipo pack as I have been hearing good things about it, but I do not want to grind away the bulkheads and center pulley clearance as well. Any firsthand feedback and experience is appreciated.
Man, I'm a post whore today.

The Trinity IP3800 lipo does fit the car fine, but you will need to do a little dremel work on the steel lipo tray. The Trinity pack is wider than the Trackpower, CheckPoint, and Losi lipos. Because of that, you have to dremel the left and right inner shoulders on the lipo tray to make it sit into the tray correctly. I did it to mine and it works like a champ. You'll need to do 2 small mods to the car itself. First, you'll need to trim the top deck to allow room for the plugs into the battery. It will not hurt the strength of the top deck. The second thing is the trim those 3 little nubs off the inner sides of the center layshaft pullies. They might touch the battery, but would probably wear off in a pack anyway.

The most work out of all that is the lipo tray, but a good cut off wheel on a dremel and 10 minutes and you're good to go. It does not affect the fitment to other batteries either.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:28 PM   #7769
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schreff,
Thanks, that is exactly what I need to know. Thanks for the details. Also, how does the Trinity lipo perform in your opinion?

Thanks,
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:20 PM   #7770
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
I think Larry would agree with me with that the feel is almost like it makes the car lighter on it's feet. Especially on corner entry. The car seems to turn a little easier. We first got to try it on carpet and it was an awesome change that yielded us at least a tenth per lap easy. Since it worked soo well there, we just never went back to 0 degree hubs.
So, it kind of gives the car a freeness in the rotation of the car with control. Doesn't make you feel like you don't have enough side grip but still give you a free feel in the rotation of the rear end. If that makes sense. They are just the standard rear 1* hubs.

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