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Old 06-22-2008, 09:59 PM   #7441
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Originally Posted by metalracer2 View Post
anyone have any tips on how to get the rear end to hook up I'm running on asphalt with rubber
edit:: it's on a low bit track
I currently am running 35 wt in the rear with a 15 spring, longest camber link I can get 4/B. Washer under the ballstud on the hub, running .040 sways front and rear. 2/outside on the shock position, .165 hex in the rear .195 in the front, 45 wt oil front and a 17 spring. 5mm ride height with droop 2 above, high roll center front low rear, diff high in front and rear, low roll center rear. 1.5 camber front and rear, shock postition 2 on the front tower and I run the JR link low with a washer under the ball stud on the spindle. I got this info from Larry when I was having such a hard time getting my car to hook up. It worked awesome for me on Saturday with it allowing me to get faster every round I ran. 20 laps first heat, 21 second which I set TQ with, then 22 laps in the main and beat my TQ. I was running low to mid 14 second laps on the layout we had which was only a little bit slower then what the guys running 10.5 were doing. So I was quite happy with how it worked out.
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:38 PM   #7442
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I'm hunting the same thing and so far this is what i've found:

Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.

Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.

I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.

The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
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Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
I currently am running 35 wt in the rear with a 15 spring, longest camber link I can get 4/B. Washer under the ballstud on the hub, running .040 sways front and rear. 2/outside on the shock position, .165 hex in the rear .195 in the front, 45 wt oil front and a 17 spring. 5mm ride height with droop 2 above, high roll center front low rear, diff high in front and rear, low roll center rear. 1.5 camber front and rear, shock postition 2 on the front tower and I run the JR link low with a washer under the ball stud on the spindle. I got this info from Larry when I was having such a hard time getting my car to hook up. It worked awesome for me on Saturday with it allowing me to get faster every round I ran. 20 laps first heat, 21 second which I set TQ with, then 22 laps in the main and beat my TQ. I was running low to mid 14 second laps on the layout we had which was only a little bit slower then what the guys running 10.5 were doing. So I was quite happy with how it worked out.
cool thanks for the help guys
i will try both set ups next weekend.
this weekend i tq and ended up 2nd so next weekend i hope to have tq and finish first
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:08 AM   #7443
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anyone got a losi steel lipo tray they would be willing to sell? i am having a heck of a time finding one and it sounds like the won't be out in time for the 8th annual speedworld cup.
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:17 AM   #7444
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The trays are out I got mine from Horizon last week. Too bad the darn thing does not fit in the chassis. Why does everything invole breaking out the Dremel tool?
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:33 AM   #7445
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I would say the rear since you have them out of sync. You need to even the collars up and then set ride height trying to make sure you move both evenly so the whole car goes up the same. They may not end up being exactly the same due to maybe one spring being weaker then the other but should be pretty close. If the collars in the front are equal then those are fine.
Thanks for the tips!!
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:04 AM   #7446
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The trays are out I got mine from Horizon last week. Too bad the darn thing does not fit in the chassis. Why does everything invole breaking out the Dremel tool?
Yours needed to be Dremeled? Mine was alittle snug but fit pretty much perfectly.
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:26 AM   #7447
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Thanks for the tips!!
No problem at all. This seems to be the year when I finally start to understand all the little things such as that and what effect it has. Shame I could not learn that a few years ago.
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:32 AM   #7448
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks
On Saturday I tried one of Rudy's smc 4000 in the losi and it fit with no problem. He was using it in his xray and took it out for me to try.
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Old 06-23-2008, 10:34 AM   #7449
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does any know what spur/pinion to start with the losi 17.5 brushless system?
yeha i also would like to know what spur and pinion u guys are running
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Old 06-23-2008, 10:45 AM   #7450
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yeha i also would like to know what spur and pinion u guys are running
108/ low 50's
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:17 PM   #7451
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Hi all

Where is the best place to put the extra weight needed when running a Trakpower lipo. I need to add 150g but theres not a lot of room left with myu GTB fitted so was wondering if there is any tips for weight placement.

Thanks
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:55 PM   #7452
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Most guys are running the steel lipo tray to add there weight. Since you are loosing weight in the battery location the best thing to do it to put it back in the battery location. and or right down the middle. Try to keep a weight bias in the ballpark of 50/50. I try to run about 45F/55R. I don't run lipos however. You will probably have to add some to the reciever side of you car to ballance the GTB. I believe taht alot of guys run a little wight in the rear of the car to, maybe 21g. That is what I have, with 49g on the reciver side. Hope this helps.

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Old 06-23-2008, 04:22 PM   #7453
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Cool thanks for that. Are the Lipo trays counter sunk like the plastic ones so that they hold the lipo or are they just flat plates?

Thanks
Tim
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Old 06-23-2008, 04:32 PM   #7454
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Cool thanks for that. Are the Lipo trays counter sunk like the plastic ones so that they hold the lipo or are they just flat plates?

Thanks
Tim
Just like the plastic ones, but only metal and heavier.
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Old 06-23-2008, 04:43 PM   #7455
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Excellent. Where is the best place to get one as here in the uk Horizon dont do them

Thanks
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