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Old 06-19-2008, 07:32 AM   #7396
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Would a 118 tooth and a 46 tooth be ok?
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.

But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
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File Type: zip spurs.zip (20.3 KB, 33 views)
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:39 AM   #7397
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New to electrics and need some help. I cant seem to get my losi 10.5 brushless to fit. Is there any tricks, tips to get them to line up. Basically i cant get it far back to get the gears to mesh?
You should be able to make it fit, but have to do a little dremel work on the left rear arm mount. I can fit a 118/54 on my car with a Losi or Novak motor. The SP/Feiago based motors have a longer endbell that stops me at a 52 tooth. All you do is dremel the arm mount down little by little to get the motor to slide back. If dremeling the arm mount isn't your cup of tea, then the PRS adapter with a smaller spur is the way to go.

At the 2 tracks I've run 10.5 at, I haven't gone higher than 118/49. Otherwise it gets too hot and bad things happen.
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:46 AM   #7398
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I am changing from the JR-link to standard camber link to get more on power steering. Is there a photo of the standard camber link setup out there somewhere? any tips for ball stud height etc?
The standard camber link is pretty straight forward. You just need another camber link for the front using the same turnbuckles/ball cups that are used on every other part of the car. As far as the ball studs, we usually work with a standard ballstud or a shortneck. The difference in height between the 2 is .030. That might now sound like much, but it changes camber gain on the Type R quite a bit. More often than not anymore, we're running a shortneck on in the caster block.

Standard - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9947

Short - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9949
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:07 AM   #7399
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
You should be able to make it fit, but have to do a little dremel work on the left rear arm mount. I can fit a 118/54 on my car with a Losi or Novak motor. The SP/Feiago based motors have a longer endbell that stops me at a 52 tooth. All you do is dremel the arm mount down little by little to get the motor to slide back. If dremeling the arm mount isn't your cup of tea, then the PRS adapter with a smaller spur is the way to go.

At the 2 tracks I've run 10.5 at, I haven't gone higher than 118/49. Otherwise it gets too hot and bad things happen.
Jason,

Thanks for the help. I was at Jackson with you a couple weeks back. I was the new guy talking to you and Todd about the losi. I went with the same setup as you guys. Are you talking about the inner pivot block or the actuall motor mount? Mine seems to hit the pivot block. If you are talking about the motor mount, do you mean where the screws go onto the motor?
Thanks for the help...
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:10 AM   #7400
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.

But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
The folder is corrupted...When you say dual rates do you mean too muych throw causing some binding?
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:10 AM   #7401
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I use a 48/114 but i'm a touch under geared for my track, i've attached a spreadsheet that gives you the ratio w/ the 2 different pulley combo's (same sized pulleys). Others at my track use 54/108 but i can't control my throttle finger enough to keep motor temps down.

But it really depends on your track and other variables, good example i had my dual rate up WAAAY too high so it was causing the car to work harder to get through the turns raising up my motor temps, i lowered my dual rate, i can still get through the corners, and my temps came down 30 degrees allowing me to gear up.
The folder is corrupted...When you say dual rates do you mean too much throw causing some binding?
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:32 AM   #7402
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The folder is corrupted...When you say dual rates do you mean too much throw causing some binding?
had someone here at work try it and they got it o.k., pm me your email addy and i will send it to you uncompressed, i can't attach xls in the forum.

No i adjusted the throw to make sure the servo isn't straining at the end of it's travel separately from dual rate, I made that adjustment w/ dual rate at 100%. By dual rate i mean the adjustment on your radio that maps the amount of front wheel travel to the amount of throw on your radio's wheel or stick (dam that was hard to verbalize!!) hopefully i'm not making it more confusing.

Either way your radio has a dual rate adjustment, back it down until you just can't make it around the corners at full lock then go up by 5 to 10%.

This information is not my own btw, i was doing it all wrong until last weekend a more experienced racer (a main all the dam time, the bastard) pointed out that my wheels were turning too much in the corner and that was part of my motor temp problem i had been complaining about.
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:45 AM   #7403
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The standard camber link is pretty straight forward. You just need another camber link for the front using the same turnbuckles/ball cups that are used on every other part of the car. As far as the ball studs, we usually work with a standard ballstud or a shortneck. The difference in height between the 2 is .030. That might now sound like much, but it changes camber gain on the Type R quite a bit. More often than not anymore, we're running a shortneck on in the caster block.

Standard - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9947

Short - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9949
Thanks Schreff, I have the standard ones in my pit box, i'll give those a shot at the blue diamond today. I've been reading quite a bit about camber gain, what should i look for that would clue me in as to when i need more or less camber gain on the front or rear of the type-r?

I have the xxx-main tc setup book and i've been re-reading it over the last couple of weeks and trying to relate the scenarios in the book to the type-r and i'm having some issues as to where to start making adjustments for major issues and where to make adjustments for fine tuning.

For instance the small changes you made to ride height/droop when we were at the bowl it made a world of difference to the behavior center corner out!
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:59 AM   #7404
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Jason,

Thanks for the help. I was at Jackson with you a couple weeks back. I was the new guy talking to you and Todd about the losi. I went with the same setup as you guys. Are you talking about the inner pivot block or the actuall motor mount? Mine seems to hit the pivot block. If you are talking about the motor mount, do you mean where the screws go onto the motor?
Thanks for the help...
I'm talking about the inner pivot block. The part that is actually hitting the endbell of the motor stopping it from moving further. I took as much material off of it as I could without sacrificing structural integrity. The only problem with mine is if I want to run HIGH rear roll center, I'll have to dremel down another block just for that. Both Larry and myself have done the same thing to continue to use Losi spur gears on the car. Keep in mind, this is only good for 13.5 and 10.5. If you plan on running 17.5, you'll definitely need the PRS adapter to slam a ton of gear on it.
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:08 AM   #7405
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I'm talking about the inner pivot block. The part that is actually hitting the endbell of the motor stopping it from moving further. I took as much material off of it as I could without sacrificing structural integrity. The only problem with mine is if I want to run HIGH rear roll center, I'll have to dremel down another block just for that. Both Larry and myself have done the same thing to continue to use Losi spur gears on the car. Keep in mind, this is only good for 13.5 and 10.5. If you plan on running 17.5, you'll definitely need the PRS adapter to slam a ton of gear on it.

Got it!!! Thanks...I noticed it was hitting it. I figured there had to be something i was doing wrong. I guess the dremel will work...thanks
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:10 AM   #7406
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Thanks Schreff, I have the standard ones in my pit box, i'll give those a shot at the blue diamond today. I've been reading quite a bit about camber gain, what should i look for that would clue me in as to when i need more or less camber gain on the front or rear of the type-r?

I have the xxx-main tc setup book and i've been re-reading it over the last couple of weeks and trying to relate the scenarios in the book to the type-r and i'm having some issues as to where to start making adjustments for major issues and where to make adjustments for fine tuning.

For instance the small changes you made to ride height/droop when we were at the bowl it made a world of difference to the behavior center corner out!
I would say camber gain is more towards the end of a fine tune adjustment. On asphalt, the car has more of a numb feel courtesy of rubber tires. Adding camber doesn't always help and can sometimes hurt the handling on rubber tires. On foam, it's a completely different story. For quick notes sake... raising the ball stud on the rear hub or front caster block increases camber gain. From testing, a .030 adjustment in height can yield as much as 1* of gain throughout suspension travel.

As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:32 AM   #7407
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try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
i know somone has asked this befor but i couldn't find it
how do you adjust the droop so it's 2-3mm above ride height?
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:45 AM   #7408
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i know somone has asked this befor but i couldn't find it
how do you adjust the droop so it's 2-3mm above ride height?
Measure your ride height, lift the car while keeping the tires firmly planted on the board and re-measure your height. This is droop over ride height. It's the gap between your chassis fully weighted at rest vs. max down travel of the suspension.
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:00 AM   #7409
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I would say camber gain is more towards the end of a fine tune adjustment. On asphalt, the car has more of a numb feel courtesy of rubber tires. Adding camber doesn't always help and can sometimes hurt the handling on rubber tires. On foam, it's a completely different story. For quick notes sake... raising the ball stud on the rear hub or front caster block increases camber gain. From testing, a .030 adjustment in height can yield as much as 1* of gain throughout suspension travel.

As far as the adjustments I made to your car at the Bowl... that track isn't exactly smooth like Blue Diamond. Your car almost had NO droop so the car didn't have the ability of transferring weight front to rear in an efficient manor. After adjusting that, the car should've been more controllable between off and on power cornering. On asphalt... try to keep the droop about 2-3mm above ride height front and rear.
Thanks again!! I'll start w/ 2mm at blue diamond.
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:42 PM   #7410
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So i am confused about this whole droop business. So in the back of the manual in the build set up it says droop is 1mm above right height in the front. Do i do A or B?

a) Measure ride height, then max height with wheels still on the ground and the difference is droop. To decrease droop i actually tighten the downstop to remove down travel

OR

b) Taking the handy droop guage that comes with the kit and measuring 1mm using the chasis and set screw boss as reference, and make sure screw boss just clears the 1mm mark. I decrease droop here by loosening the downstop and adding down travel.

If it matters, i am suspecting the A is my answer. thanks alot.
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