tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

the xray is the other manual i have on hand, and yes it is an excellent piece of reference material, that is why i kept it when i got rid of the car.. i'm really having a bear of a time tame the rear end of my R on asphalt with rubber tires and even though the track has above average traction it is constantly loose.. there must be something broken or bent i'm missing. i have tried everything..

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Here is what Im running..

gear 110x45 13.5 motor 4600 Batteries
Tires Both Jaco Blues and RP30s

Springs 17 front 15 rear
Oil 40 front 30 rear
Stock pistons

Rear wheel base short
Camber link outside hub inside top tower(long)
shocks #2 in hole in tower out arm
stock rear hubs
2* block
diff high
high roll center rear

Front
4* caster bocks
middle wheel base
High diff/spool
High roll center
shocks #2 in on tower
tall ball stud on caster block
camber link top inside
1* front block(sweep)
.040 sway bar


Car drives real easy and been to a few low bite tracks and was good.

Car does not always react to changes from other types of cars the same due to batts being in center. Craig X and Schreff has shown me this first hand.

RussB

check the front lcd's. if they are binding up the rear will feel loose. also check for cracks in the castor blocks.

aside from that, the car seems to like rear toe.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

good advice on the lcd's i'll give them a look-see. the caster blocks are new.. are most peeps running high roll center on asphalt? i have seen a few setups that way.. just seems contrary..

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

I ran Low and Low and was loose beyond. I went to High high as advised and was good.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

i'll try it again and see what happens.. i have made other changes since then so hopefully that is the missing ingredient..

tag, any rear swaybar?

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

I have, Just seemed too loose on Jaco blues. I ran Blues at Easley SC w/o rear bar and it was real good.

PDM

Check your spool is not slipping.

Happened to me once. I had to put some contact glue in the surfaces to get some extra grip in the spool.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

if you managed good grip at easley you were doing real good.. i'll check the spool too..

walden

Hi All

Does anyone know where i can get a titanium screw kit from for the type R

I weighed my car today at a race meeting and i'm 70 grams over weight

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Lunsford racing..http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...Category_Code=

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

What's up buddy...its Yohan. I see your still having the same issues, although last Wednesday your car didnt seem so loose. It was a bit loose in the rear.

High Roll center- the reason why on the TYPE R high roll centers are better for outdoor asphalt is because since the weight is in the center, it will cause the tires to work more to get traction. Here's what Team Losi's Todd Hodge tells us about roll center on the Type R:

"The suspension mounts offer a lot more in the roll center adjustability. By running a lower roll center, pins closer to the chassis, you will gain more roll in your chassis, which results in less use of the tire. By running a higher roll center, pins higher, you have a car that now drives flatter and places more of a load on the tire for traction. Generally speaking, a lower roll center will have less traction where a higher roll center has more traction. You can easily see this with foam tires, a place where we never use high roll center since it will make the car traction roll due to the increased traction capabilities of the higher roll centers"...


Please keep in mind this works with cars with weight down the middle like Type R and E4...on other cars it doesnt seem to work as well. Other cars like to use low roll centers and use body roll to generate grip.

In all asphalt testing for the past 3 months with the Type R, I've been shocked and amazed at how much better the car is using high roll center, especially up front, than using low roll centers.

With the set up you had on Wednesday, and with high traction at MDI, the car should actually have very good rear grip, and possible understeer/pushing.

You had 3 deg rear toe, and 35WT oil, with 12lb rear springs, if I remember correctly.

I'd defenitely check your LCD's and RCD's and make sure no pins are loose or sticking out, and no binding is going on.

Also check the front spool as previously suggested, and after make sure your body is not mounted too low where its rubbing with the tires, or the wheel wells are cut so that your tires are getting caught on them.

Check also for suspension binding. Take off the shocks and sway bars and make sure arms can move freely up and down w/o any binding, and that your bearings are OK and free.

Check also how tight your diff is set...if its too tight it might cause erratic handling on and off power.

If all this is OK, then work on the rear set up.

Would you please be so kind to post what your current set up is?

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

currently..


front:

30wt, .56 pistons, high roll center, low diff, jr link (low) hole #3, arms long (middle spacing), 15# spring, steering 2, spindle 1, .04 sway, 5mm ride height

rear:

30wt, .56, high roll center (was low), low diff (was high), camber link b-4, arms long forward spaced (was back), spring 12.5#, .03 sway. 4.5mm ride height

i have now taken both diffs down and cleaned all the bearings as they were a little gritty, but apart from that were otherwise ok as are the lcd's and cvd's and the spool.. nothing is binding and has been checked and rechecked for tweek. i have put on some other tires (were well worn cs27's)as i only had one set last time to try. hopefully they were a big part of the problem.. also of note is that my car is a light (100 grams) and has a rearward weight bias ~45/55 front/rear.. i know peple like to get these 50/50 or more front biased..

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Ride Height: try 5mm front, and 5.5mm rear. This will help much at MDI getting over the bumps much better, and so that your rear doesnt bottom out so much.

Tires: try a fresh pack of tires as you said. Fresher newer tires make a huge difference.

Droop: front droop around 3mm over ride height, as well as rear, especially since you're 100g lighter, you need a bit more suspension travel to get the weight transfered a bit more. If you can, try to add the weight.

Rear Camber Link: you have B4...try B5 or A5 instead to increase rear traction...

Hopefully wednesday night you'll have much better results

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Thats same as I run too.. 5m front 5.5 rear and 3mm droop front and rear. Also I see you have 12.5 rear springs that could be to soft and to much roll also. My buddy Anthony went from loose 12 lbs to 17 lbs on his Corally saturday and gained all kinds of comfort. Went from mad to happy...

Rear softer springs dont always help,somtimes hurt,,,