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Old 03-11-2008, 04:11 PM   #6751
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Can anybody recommend me a good lipo battery for running TC Modified with 3.5 / 3.0 LRP Brushless motor. With 3.5 motor i could just barely run 5min with LRP 5000mAh pack. So i was looking at Maxamps 8000 7.4V. I am mostly concern about the quality because LRP batteries were very bad. Does any body use maxapms and could tell me about the quality or recommend other brand of lipo.
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:49 PM   #6752
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Nelarozi,
I have started to run the SMC 28c 5000 and so far been pleased with the results. It is a VERY TIGHT fit in the R but will fit. I can't say anything one way or the other about runtime as I never even get close to the bottom of the tank, but I would think better cells will provide more usable energy. I will say that I find it hard to believe you will find a bigger lipo that will fit. The SMC uses literally every bit of space under the deck to fit and in fact only fits one way thanks to a taper in the battery case.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:36 PM   #6753
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Well after a few emails to losi about the steel lipo tray, got an answer back. They are indeed making them again, and expected to be back in stores in 6-8 weeks. No information on price was given, but this is good news indeed!
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:39 PM   #6754
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Frank,

Since some of the lipos are a tight fit or very tight fit, is there a chance the lipos will tweak the chassis? Being a tight fit and putting pressure on the battery plate (downward) and on the top chassis plate (upward) won't these cause tweak on the car. Just me thinking too much but wondering if anyone notice this when changing batteries (the battery would not be in the exact position each battery change).
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:14 PM   #6755
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Nice work hobbipro! Now lets hope they dont delay the things for forever like Losi is famous for doing.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:33 PM   #6756
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vabroom,
while I suppose tweak is possible it would seem to me to be in the vertical arch plane and therefore very unlikely. I would think that a very tight fit would in fact aid in the prevention of tweak in the torsional plane(twisting). Granted the greater strength would be more likely to hold a tweak once developed but I would think it would prevent its occurrence in the first place. I guess it's a catch-22. I'll say I haven't noticed any issues that would imply tweak from the new batteries.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:58 PM   #6757
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Can someone please tell me if this is advantageous or should I switch it back?
The guy I bought my type r from has taken off the upper arms and in their place he has put a steering tierod type link. It looks much more simple, and its probably a little lighter, but should I put the upper arms back on? Is there a specific reason to do this?
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:16 PM   #6758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jla8874 View Post
Can someone please tell me if this is advantageous or should I switch it back?
The guy I bought my type r from has taken off the upper arms and in their place he has put a steering tierod type link. It looks much more simple, and its probably a little lighter, but should I put the upper arms back on? Is there a specific reason to do this?
By upper arms I'm assuming you mean camber links? If that is the case many people have said they get more steering using the traditional ball cup and ball stud vs. the jr link. Personally I have found a very insignificant difference. I use the jr link on my asphalt car and an associated ball cup on my carpet car. The only reason I do this is due to the fact that with my carpet setup I need that little bit of steering in the car as most do with foams (point and shoot), on asphalt things are more fluid and you either have the steering in your car or you need a new setup.

On another note, but in the same vein. I have never been longing for steering with this car no matter what surface or amount of traction on the track. 100% better than the original, but I'm sure that I'm preaching to the choir. Thanks to the r&d team and all the drivers that helped or are currently helping to make a super product!!
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:27 AM   #6759
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Thats it mojo. It was the JR link I was referring to, compared to the upper arms. I'm starting out racing foams on carpet, so I am debating as to whether to put the upper arms back on. I think the best thing for me to do is to drive it like it is, then put the upper arms back on that way I can see for myself the differences between them.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:34 AM   #6760
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For me, the JR link lacks a bit of initial steering but has alot of mid and exit corner steering. Also seems to keep the car "flatter" in the corner. The standard link gives me a bit more initial steering but not as much mid and exit corner steering as the JR link. Try both and see what you like better.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:18 AM   #6761
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Good idea Matt. Are you running a brushless setup? If so, whatcha got?
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:28 PM   #6762
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what positon are you guy running the diffs on asphalt with rubber tires?
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:40 PM   #6763
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I run both High...
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:41 PM   #6764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbipro View Post
Well after a few emails to losi about the steel lipo tray, got an answer back. They are indeed making them again, and expected to be back in stores in 6-8 weeks. No information on price was given, but this is good news indeed!

MOJO this is your time to shine lol
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:34 AM   #6765
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What about MaxAmps 6000mah 7.4, they are smaller than my LIPO 5000 mah pack, but i wonder what the quality is like because with lrp 5000mah i can only get 2800mAh at 15A discharge. Does anybody have an information how much can the MP 6000mah putout. And another question, what kind of balancing connector is compatable with polyquest connector?
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