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Old 10-18-2007, 06:14 PM   #5761
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you hve to dremmel to get that in there? is that with the 13mm rotor or just the sintered?
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:25 PM   #5762
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what spurs are you guy with 10.5's running?
Im runing 118/44 with no problems ... and still have room to go up .. using the prs adaptor ...
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:20 PM   #5763
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IVE BEEN RUNNING A 118 50 WITH THE LOSI GEAR
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:16 PM   #5764
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
with the 10.5 Orion motor advance the timming 1mm counter clockwise and gear it around a 5.00FDR

with foams around a 39mm
what about with the novak 10.5? I ran one last week and ended up gearing up every round, in the main I ran a 35mm rollout and it felt good but I haven't tried going any higher..........yet
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:41 PM   #5765
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I run around a 54/108 with my 13mm 13.5 with no problem. Rollout near 50mm depending on tires. I think it's a little too high though. Plus, LiPo takes a bit more gear. I'm going to try something lower for nasty old NiMH next week.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:46 PM   #5766
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between orion and novak 10.5's are torque and rpm is what I've seen.......
orion has more torque and novak has more rpm, and based on limited info you can gear up higher with orion cause of the fan built in and based on more torque motor...........I'll find out soon enough

thanks for the quick reply marcos
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:51 PM   #5767
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between orion and novak 10.5's are torque and rpm is what I've seen.......
orion has more torque and novak has more rpm, and based on limited info you can gear up higher with orion cause of the fan built in and based on more torque motor...........I'll find out soon enough

thanks for the quick reply marcos
no problem thats why i mention to advance the timing a little bit to get more rpm
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:03 PM   #5768
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Has anyone had a problem with breaking rear arms? The last touring car I remember driving was my TC3 which I had a horrible time with because it kept breaking rear arms. The reason I ask is I am going to make an aluminum bash guard for my electronics (GTB and standard sized Spektrum RX) and was wondering if I should extend it out and back to act as a nerf bar.

p.s. I have yet to drive the car
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:34 PM   #5769
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About 4 months ago Todd sent me a new set of arms after I was having trouble breaking the original batch that was determined to be defective because of some flaw with the process. I've raced once or twice a week since then and still have the arms on there Todd sent me. So nope, no arms broken.

The only thing I seem to break are knuckles and C-hubs, and sometimes the plastic pieces that make up the front bumper. I find the car to be quite durable in general. Certainly more so than the one I came from.
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:36 PM   #5770
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118-44 = 2.68 posted on forum
108-54 = 2.00 posted on forum
112-41 = 2.73 posted on forum
128-38 = 3.37 direct info off type r chart for a 10.5 novak
biased on spur/pinion

118-44 = 4.91
108-54 = 3.66
112-41 = 5.00
128-38 = 6.16
biased on the JRXS Gearchart.com with 1.83 : 1

I have the Novak 13.5 sintered with 4000mah Lipo on Carpet/Foam.
track is 48*85 I have been running a 128 spur and 38 pinion with no problems

What is the bonus of these such drastically lower drive ratios? I would think it would strain the motors alot being geared for such a top speed.
Other than Gearchart.com what is another site that would help me?
I am a noob at all of this so I am trying a grasp all of this gearing talk sorry if I am missing something.
If possible please shed as much light as possible thanks guys.
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:58 PM   #5771
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I find that the brushless motors have so much torque that if it's geared too low, the torque will upset the car, and is hard on the diffs. Gearing it higher smoothes out the torque a bit, and tends to be faster. The 13.5 is a little hard to gear, because it will be pretty fast with almost any gear (big or small) and then really fast in a fairly small window. Finding that window can be tricky, since a lot of things come into play. First, the rotor you use will make a big difference on where you gear. Second, the size and layout of your track. Third, the size and type of tires can matter. And if that's not enough, running LiPo vs. NiMH will change how you gear things, since the higher voltage of NiMH will produce more RPM's, which makes more heat, and requires less gear.

*deep breath*

Here's what I do. I keep gearing the motor up until the lap times even out or drop off, and then I keep it there. If you're using the sintered rotor, the motor will slow down before it gets hot enough to reach thermal shutdown. So, keep throwing pinions at it, check your lap times, and enjoy the fact that messing with gearing is the only attention your motor will ever need.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:15 PM   #5772
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that makes sense. I guess I will stop at the local hobby store and pick up a few smaller spurs.
thanks for the info I will give it a shot.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:33 PM   #5773
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Originally Posted by tdeal823 View Post
that makes sense. I guess I will stop at the local hobby store and pick up a few smaller spurs.
thanks for the info I will give it a shot.
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Old 10-20-2007, 02:11 AM   #5774
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Default 41 and 42 pulleys

How do you tell the difference between the two. What markings do you look for? If you have pics, please post them..

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:24 AM   #5775
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I find that the brushless motors have so much torque that if it's geared too low, the torque will upset the car, and is hard on the diffs. Gearing it higher smoothes out the torque a bit, and tends to be faster. The 13.5 is a little hard to gear, because it will be pretty fast with almost any gear (big or small) and then really fast in a fairly small window. Finding that window can be tricky, since a lot of things come into play. First, the rotor you use will make a big difference on where you gear. Second, the size and layout of your track. Third, the size and type of tires can matter. And if that's not enough, running LiPo vs. NiMH will change how you gear things, since the higher voltage of NiMH will produce more RPM's, which makes more heat, and requires less gear.

*deep breath*

Here's what I do. I keep gearing the motor up until the lap times even out or drop off, and then I keep it there. If you're using the sintered rotor, the motor will slow down before it gets hot enough to reach thermal shutdown. So, keep throwing pinions at it, check your lap times, and enjoy the fact that messing with gearing is the only attention your motor will ever need.
I pulled my LRP 4.5 BL and put in the Novak 10.5 to lessen the punch. SO baised on the fact that you guys are loading the bl motors so much does this take away some of the punch and make the lower wind motors like the 4.5 a smoother and easier motor to drive?? With my lrp 4.5 I was running a 128-24 so maybe I should run the 4.5 with like a 128-36 or maybe even drop the spur to the 118.
What do you all think? sunday will be here fast and I don't have anymore practice days till the race. So i will be tunning during the practice time on sunday and throught the heats
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