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Old 10-10-2007, 10:37 AM   #5716
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I was going through the thread and notice the guys was talking about light weight bodys, does it make any difference if you use light or reg body? I can't see how because all the cars must meet the race weight and even with the reg body I still add weight to the car to make the weight.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:02 AM   #5717
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I was going through the thread and notice the guys was talking about light weight bodys, does it make any difference if you use light or reg body? I can't see how because all the cars must meet the race weight and even with the reg body I still add weight to the car to make the weight.
It does make a difference with a lightweight body. The car's response is a little more direct with a lightweight. Sure, you have to add more lead, but you're adding it to the chassis plate itself instead of up high with the body. If you're car is really good, handling wise, with a regular weight... it will be a little better with a lightweight. It might not transmit into super fast lap times, but it's a feel thing more than anything else. I've had people tell me it's worth 2 tenths a lap, but I disagree. It might be worth half a tenth with a lightweight.

That's just my opinion though. Take it for what it's worth.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:15 AM   #5718
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I really liked how the car felt, but I'm going to have to get a regular body and see how much of a difference I can really feel and see in lap times. Now I understand why people do so many things to keep those bodies from tucking. It doesn't take much. :-)
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:16 PM   #5719
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That's just my opinion though. Take it for what it's worth.
Thank you, that clear my question.
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:50 PM   #5720
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Default tall ball stud

what are you guys using for tall ball studs on the camber links?
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Old 10-10-2007, 07:13 PM   #5721
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what are you guys using for tall ball studs on the camber links?
Just to give you an idea...

I personally consider this a "tall" ball stud...(the stock kit steel ones are tall too)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA9947

These are the "short" ball studs...
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA9949

There's about a .030 difference in height of the ball just like Larry posted in a previous post.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:54 PM   #5722
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thanks shreff, i just looked back, didnt even know that question was just asked. guess i used the wrong words to search! thanks again
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Old 10-11-2007, 03:47 AM   #5723
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Just out of interest were there any guys running a TypeR in any of the rubber classes at the IIC?
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Old 10-11-2007, 07:18 AM   #5724
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Just out of interest were there any guys running a TypeR in any of the rubber classes at the IIC?
I was and so was Tag, not sure about others since I did not pay that close attention to that. I am sure there had to be others.
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Old 10-11-2007, 02:02 PM   #5725
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Cool, how did it go for you? Did you note down any setups at all?
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:01 PM   #5726
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Cool, how did it go for you? Did you note down any setups at all?
I was running an asphalt setup that Schreff gave me earlier in the summer. It originally called for a standard link in the front for camber and I used the JR Link. Only change I made to it for LV was to remove the spool and insert a oneway. Car felt good but I was stripping spur gears and later figured it had to maybe do with the oneway since I had not stripped any on the car all summer with a spool. Theory being when I would hit stuff under power it was trying to spin the drivetrain in reverse while the motor was moving forward, hence the stripped gears.
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Old 10-12-2007, 08:20 AM   #5727
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This might be a silly question, but how do you make a spool? I have the spool plates, but now i don't know what to do with them.

O, and can you guy's post as many setups as possible, i really need more outdoor rubber/foam ones
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Old 10-12-2007, 09:03 AM   #5728
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This might be a silly question, but how do you make a spool? I have the spool plates, but now i don't know what to do with them.

O, and can you guy's post as many setups as possible, i really need more outdoor rubber/foam ones
take out the diff balls clean the diff rings then put it back together with the spool plates and tighten the diff screw but not too much you may strip the plastic hub
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:16 PM   #5729
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I just ran my "new to me" type-r yesterday and I've got a couple questions (I'm a nooob to 4wd touring but not rc cars):

1) What is the benifit of the new upper link on the front arms? Is there a specific track condition that would be better w/ the older standard link?

2) I've read in this thread about the strength of the ea3 plastic, i broke a rear arm yesterday. I've only broken one of the graphites in a season on my pro and that was because it got caught on a protruding nail in the board. What is the consensus on ea3.

2a) If i don't like the new arms can i run the old graphite arms (they fit but don't know about geometry etc).

3) Tire compounds, are cs27's better in cooler temps than rp30's what about cs32's? Are sorex 28's softer than cs27's? Is there some super secret cheat sheet on these blasted tire number somewhere!?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for previous posts! This thread has been a great help in pushing me to upgrade to the type-r from the pro and helping me get it setup properly.
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Old 10-13-2007, 10:12 PM   #5730
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i got to race friday night for opening night at my local indoor carpet track.
last week i went there for practive and i really didnt like the way the car felt.
but this week when i got there i didnt change nothing.except that i took off the cs 27 tire and got a set of cs 22 tire...this made the car just awesome...it works so well i dont think i want to change anything else.
i used the set-up right from the nook...minus the 50 oil i used 40 in it.

i like the car ...but there are a bunch of other guys who bought the car as well and i want to be on top of them when im out there racing them.

so i would like to tamper with somethings on it so i can try to be on top of the game.....lol

but overall i really like the way the car works.
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