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Old 10-08-2007, 09:00 AM   #5671
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Anyone know the height difference b/t the short and normal neck ball studs?
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:06 AM   #5672
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thanks guys for the input and suggestions, I am so glad that no-one said "learn how to drive and keep off the boards..." or something else dead set stupid, 'cause thats what the idiot sales clerk in the LHS said and I blew my top and went right off at him...
You might also consider looking at the ends of your axles and see if they're catching on the boards and causing a snag. A few people have reported this, and the axles are a bit longer than other cars. It seems a problem like that may be more or less of an issue depending on the wheels you use, and the boards at your track.
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:15 AM   #5673
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Anyone know the height difference b/t the short and normal neck ball studs?
The hieght of the ball studs will change your camber gain or bump steer. Where long necks will give you more gain the shorter will give you less gain. A minor adjustment to make when you don't want to change your camber or steering linkages.
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:15 AM   #5674
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Maybe Todd or someone can give you an exact answer but when I caliper the 2 different ballstuds there seems to be about a .75mm or .030 difference in the 2. Thats what I have always used as reference when comparing anyways.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:15 AM   #5675
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Setups: http://team-spoon.bravehost.com/

The petitrc site is a good source, too.
We could definitely use a single repository for setups, though.
Many thanks there for the plug. cheers

yeah that one of the reasons i started doing my page, as i couldn't find any setups any where,

If any one has a setup they would like hosted, feel free to send it in

hamster778@btopenworld.com

Cheers

Tim
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:28 AM   #5676
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Here is a link for some XXX-S aluminum parts. Remember the knuckles and the carriers are the only parts compatible with the type r. I've had very little breakage with my spindles. I've broken a few arms but no hubs or carriers. As Mike said I've had to change some knuckles out due to wear on the car from driving and wrenching but no major issues.

Adios,
C

http://www.asiatees.com/model.php?br...el=XXX-S&pid=1
the aluminum castor blocks on that site are not the same... if you look closely at the latest revision of castor blocks that started coming with the jrxs, you will see there is a chamfer on the leading and trailing edge of the castor blocks. this is for spring clearance. the xxx-s had different shock angles and did not need these chamfers, but the jrxs and type-r DO.

aluminum castor blocks will only lead to breakage of something else, probably something more expensive. it's possible that the ea3 blocks that came in the kit were not right, the graphites have held up a lot better for me. they will still break in a bad crash, but a simple tap won't be a problem. the graphite material seems to "stay together" better when cracked as well, i've finished a few races with cracked blocks and didn't really notice the problem till i was in the pits.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:38 AM   #5677
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Yea, I actually did find a graphite one that was split on its seam during routine maintenance, but it never broke, and didn't cause a DNF. They seem pretty tough. I'll definitely stick with graphite going forward.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:45 AM   #5678
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Default Anti-Squat

How many washers do you have to use to make a noticible difference with Anti-Squat? I had the front blocks flipped over but I am wondering if that is too much.

Any help will be appreciated.

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Old 10-08-2007, 11:46 AM   #5679
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Maybe Todd or someone can give you an exact answer but when I caliper the 2 different ballstuds there seems to be about a .75mm or .030 difference in the 2. Thats what I have always used as reference when comparing anyways.
Thanks Larry!! I bought a bunch of the short neck titanium ball studs and don't want to have to buy the std\long neck ones when I can just shim out the short neck studs .75mm to get the right height. I don't have digital calipers so that's why I asked the question.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:54 AM   #5680
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You can use the losi .030 gold washers to make up the difference. One washer should be really really close. No problem.
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Old 10-08-2007, 12:31 PM   #5681
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Maybe Todd or someone can give you an exact answer but when I caliper the 2 different ballstuds there seems to be about a .75mm or .030 difference in the 2. Thats what I have always used as reference when comparing anyways.
Sounds right to me
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Old 10-08-2007, 01:11 PM   #5682
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Originally Posted by Fastforward View Post
How many washers do you have to use to make a noticible difference with Anti-Squat? I had the front blocks flipped over but I am wondering if that is too much.
Flipping the block seems a lot to me. In my case, I used .060 shims (about 1.5mm)
I wanted to get rid of the tire sqweeling when I was entering a corner off power... I did helped a lot.

Now I just changed the shim with .030 and used the #1 hole in the front tower (instead of #2). It didn't felt right using that shock position when I was using the 15F/12.5R spring combo but now that I swich to 17.5F/15R It may be better. I will see how it work on the track later this week...
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Old 10-08-2007, 01:18 PM   #5683
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Default Fixed my spur/one-way issue.

I replaced the layshaft with the JRXS one. Like Jeffb stated, Its 4mm from one end to the other. Now I push on the spur, it bend but dont affect the gear mesh like before. After two practice nights and several crashes, my spur is still in good shape.

I know It sux to have heavier componend on the drive train but now I can afford to hit walls without ending the race with the sound of a TL01...

Here what it looks like with the bigger shaft.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dsc03688s.jpg  
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:38 PM   #5684
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J@une, if those are aluminum screws on that top deck, a hard hit in that area can easily shear off the screws. Leaving you with the main body of the screws still inside the bulkheads. A very expensive repair and/or replacement.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:48 PM   #5685
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Originally Posted by J@UNE View Post
I replaced the layshaft with the JRXS one. Like Jeffb stated, Its 4mm from one end to the other. Now I push on the spur, it bend but dont affect the gear mesh like before. After two practice nights and several crashes, my spur is still in good shape.

I know It sux to have heavier componend on the drive train but now I can afford to hit walls without ending the race with the sound of a TL01...

Here what it looks like with the bigger shaft.
what batteries have to tried, clearance wise? aka, do the orion 4800's fit? I believe losi took out material because of battery clearance but I am not 100% sure.
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