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Old 07-09-2007, 02:15 PM   #4846
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hey MarcosJ.....sending the wires over the heatsink like that...did that cause you any problems???
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:15 PM   #4847
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i was breaking rear turnbuckles for a while too. are you running your arms back or forward? i was running mine back, but when i moved them forward, the breakage went away. the turnbuckle is at a pretty good angle backward if you run the arms back. i think that angle at an impact can cause the turnbuckle to rip out of the ball cup.
Running the arms back, if I run them forward car gets a little twitchy in the parking lot races not as even as proper track
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:18 PM   #4848
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hey MarcosJ.....sending the wires over the heatsink like that...did that cause you any problems???
no problems at all they were clip on heatsink but i didnt even need to use them after one run i took them out
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:21 PM   #4849
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no problems at all they were clip on heatsink but i didnt even need to use them after one run i took them out
I have the permanent one and it comes up rather far , the instructions clearly warn about problems with the HS and wires over the top of it. I am with you though. I don't think I am even going to run it, it just doesn't get that hot!!!
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:24 PM   #4850
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Hey Marcos,

I see your one chassis has no weight and the other has half an elephant on the left side what gives?
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:25 PM   #4851
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I have the permanent one and it comes up rather far , the instructions clearly warn about problems with the HS and wires over the top of it. I am with you though. I don't think I am even going to run it, it just doesn't get that hot!!!
i too had the permanent heat sink but i hated taking but i hated taking the car apart to change motors, so i took the novak heatsink out
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:26 PM   #4852
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Hey Marcos,

I see your one chassis has no weight and the other has half an elephant on the left side what gives?
the novak gtb is a little heavier than th lrp
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:27 PM   #4853
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the novak gtb is a little heavier than th lrp
Those look like 1/4oz weights it cant be that much heavier.........can it?
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:31 PM   #4854
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Those look like 1/4oz weights it cant be that much heavier.........can it?
yes you are correct but the car was perfectly balanced i added a little weight to the car with the lrp but i did so a few days later
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:22 PM   #4855
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Thanks Marcos
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:45 PM   #4856
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Default Apogee Magnum 3800 mAh Battery Pack

Hi guys,

Did anyone here running their JRXS type R with Apogee Magnum 2-Cell or 3 - Cell 3800 mAh Battery Pack?

Need to know if it will fit in the battery compartment or only the Orion lipo pack can fit in?

Advice appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:43 PM   #4857
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guys i need a little help here. i would have posted in the jrxs thread BUT its not as active as this one, but it resembles it anyway... my question is this, HOW do i adjust or tighten my diff with out taken the diff assembly out of the car, i looked at the diagram and the diff screw is inside the tube, is there a tool i need to adjust it its vertually impossible to adjust it with a regular screw driver. is that screw inside the tube the screw i need to adjust the diff with. is there a way to adjust it with out taken things apart. please help
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:53 PM   #4858
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I usually use an exacto blade or long body clip to slide into the screw head, just stick somehting in there to hold it, and turn the wheel on the oposit side.
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:28 PM   #4859
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i figured it out the harder way. i took apart the other side of the diff assembly that hold in the cvd. and then i was able to use a srew driver in the tube. BUT your way seems alot easier, lol. I will try that next time, thanks.
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:33 PM   #4860
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Or you can use a small flatblade screw driver to tighten it with as well. Just stick the blade in the screw from the side and just do as the previous poster said. There is no need to tear anything apart to tighten a diff on either car.
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