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Old 06-28-2007, 11:01 AM   #4696
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I've had the car tweak once due to a blown out shock, and another time for no apparent reason (no hard hits) which was easily solved by re-seating the top deck. One thing about the R, I really do notice when it's tweaked more than, say, my old RDX. Maybe because it's so balanced? It certainly hasn't been a problem, though.

When setting my ride height, I use a caliper to make sure the gap between the preload collar and shock cap is the same side to side, and that seems to be enough for the car to come out untweaked every time. It feels perfectly balanced on the track, too.
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:03 AM   #4697
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Originally Posted by CRASH View Post
I believe Rob mentioned switching to the 1degree block in the rear to fix this.

Later,
I'll definitely give that a shot for next week. My dad will be in town, and wants to come out and watch, so I have to represent. Seeing you pull me every lap around the poll of death was no good at all. :-(
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:15 AM   #4698
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Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
2 questions, what can I do in order to have:

1. I need more on throttle steering
2. I need less high speed breaking steering

I'm using front diff.
Thanks
1. Assuming that you are refering to corner entry through mid corner I would try the following in the following order, run the car after each change to be sure;

a) Softer sway bar in the front
b) Lower the droop settings
c) Raise the roll centre up front
d) Increase caster
e) lower the shock position
f) Lower the ride height

If you are still pushing then it may just be that you are going into the corners too hot

2. Set the exp setting on your transmitter to a negative value shouldnt need to exceed 10%
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:34 PM   #4699
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Default JRXS-R For Sale

I have been following the JRXS thread from when the original came out and have owned both cars. Unfortunately, after completing the new car and as luck would have it the day after I retired 4/15/07 I fractured my right rotating cuff and been out of commission since. I've been patient waiting to drive the new car but just found out that I may need some surgery on the shoulder. This will kill the outdoor season for me and since i don't run sedan indoors this ties me up until next spring. So that's it

BRAND NEW BUILT OUT OF BOX NEVER RUN. NEW ARMS FRONT & REAR, P-DUB BUMPER, SPUR ADAPTER, SPARE ARMS, OTHER PARTS AND A MAZADA 6 BODY - READY TO GO

Asking $365 for everything. Any Takers?
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:54 AM   #4700
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Originally Posted by jmasse View Post
Are there any set ups out there for asphalt that are working well. We are currently using the 2006 Nats set up from Todd Hodge that seems OK, but I wanted to see what some of you guys are using.

Thanks in advance for the help.
My latest set up is dialed. www.gearchart.com
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:00 AM   #4701
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Default Spool

Hi guys, quick question...

I have the spool diff gear and pads to lock the front diff, but was wondering if you still use the thrust race assembly on the screw.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:05 AM   #4702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Tronzano View Post
I have been following the JRXS thread from when the original came out and have owned both cars. Unfortunately, after completing the new car and as luck would have it the day after I retired 4/15/07 I fractured my right rotating cuff and been out of commission since. I've been patient waiting to drive the new car but just found out that I may need some surgery on the shoulder. This will kill the outdoor season for me and since i don't run sedan indoors this ties me up until next spring. So that's it

BRAND NEW BUILT OUT OF BOX NEVER RUN. NEW ARMS FRONT & REAR, P-DUB BUMPER, SPUR ADAPTER, SPARE ARMS, OTHER PARTS AND A MAZADA 6 BODY - READY TO GO

Asking $365 for everything. Any Takers?

Sorry to hear the news Buddy. Your one of the founding fathers of this great hobby and I know you'll bounce back. You'll be highly missed this outdoor season.

...........BTW, This Guy really takes good care of his stuff and you will not be disapointed. One of the best racers in the east coast and his stuff is top notch!

Good luck, my friend............. Be well!
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:06 AM   #4703
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Chrissy- Yes you need to.

John T- Dude i hope you get through it and back on the track soon!
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Old 06-29-2007, 09:59 AM   #4704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
1. Assuming that you are refering to corner entry through mid corner I would try the following in the following order, run the car after each change to be sure;

a) Softer sway bar in the front
b) Lower the droop settings
c) Raise the roll centre up front
d) Increase caster
e) lower the shock position
f) Lower the ride height

If you are still pushing then it may just be that you are going into the corners too hot

2. Set the exp setting on your transmitter to a negative value shouldnt need to exceed 10%
Yes, I'd agree with all the above...

Additionally, wider hexes in the rear is what finally did it for me. Get the rear out close to 190mm stance. I'm running the .225 hexes which puts me right at 190 (might be 1mm to wide for tech inspection at a big race).
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:46 AM   #4705
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Hi all
My personal opinion about tweak.
For all cars i think that for eliminate the problem of tweak is necessary eliminate the upper deck. The problem whith no upper deck is the low resistance of the car at the twist and flex. The solution maybe 4 and/or 5 mm lower deck or a square allu. tube directly on the lower deck or an upper deck look like Kyosho TF - 3 (fork form)
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:46 AM   #4706
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Mark:: Did you have the new hexes on before or after we made the rear camber link change? Yeah, your car is stuck!
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:51 AM   #4707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markf3x View Post
Yes, I'd agree with all the above...

Additionally, wider hexes in the rear is what finally did it for me. Get the rear out close to 190mm stance. I'm running the .225 hexes which puts me right at 190 (might be 1mm to wide for tech inspection at a big race).
Yes definitely! Im on .195 hexes and it does make a significant difference
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Old 06-29-2007, 01:14 PM   #4708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
Mark:: Did you have the new hexes on before or after we made the rear camber link change? Yeah, your car is stuck!
I put them on before the camber changes..

Running the Diff in front, without the wide hexes in the rear, I had tried everything to get more steering on power (and only a spool would get me there, but it was too squirly on low traction surface).

Once I got the rear end widened I was able to to get my on power steering and back off slightly on some of the other settings (camber links and rear sway bar) that I'd adjusted to loosen the rear.

Mark
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:09 PM   #4709
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Alex and Mike,

Thanks for your concern. I'm confident that it will work itself out over the next few months. In the interim I'll just have to spectate and spend more time with my wife, which I'm sure she won't be dissapointed.

Alex, thanks also for the cuddos, your a great friend.

Hope to see you both soon.
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:28 PM   #4710
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Anybody use the normal front camber links instead of the jr links? From what I can understand the jr links are for high traction surfaces like carpet and standard link would be better on asphalt. Can someone give me their thoughts? I might try the standard link on carpet w/rubbers and want to know if the car would benefit from this.
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