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Old 05-16-2007, 06:57 AM   #3886
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I'd have sworn I posted this yesterday, but ADHD must have gotten to me again...

I found a few interesting things on Stormer's site yesterday afternoon while searching for some spares:

LOSA3355 Losi JRX-S Type R 1-Way Kit $43.95
LOSA9764 Losi JRX-S Type R Front Spindles and Carriers-8 degree, EA3 $7.95
LOSA9739A Losi JRX-S Type R Front Suspension Arms, graphite (2) $8.95
LOSA1217 Losi JRX-S Type R Front Suspension Arms, EA3 (2) $5.95



Interesting, at least. I don't recall seeing those in graphite before. I wonder if that will be their solution to the problems.

[EDIT: I should also note, those items from Stormer are "on order"]




On another note, what parts are you guys using to eliminate the JR link? Without a turnbuckle up top, it removes a real important simple/easy adjustment IMO and it has binding in odd spots, and the current setup is pretty Mickey Mouse. I don't like it at all. Anyone know off the top of their head the turnbuckle length for a top camber link? Do you need LONG ball studs in the top of the spindle to replace that link?

Gotta say, I LOVE how the Orion Platinum fits in this car. SCHAWEEEEET!
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Last edited by squarehead; 05-16-2007 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:36 AM   #3887
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Horizon and Losi list LOSA9739A as the regular jrx-s it's probably just a typo on stormer.

The pivot ball to eliminate the JR link needs to be long, I think about 1" of thread , I stripped a short one out the first day.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:44 AM   #3888
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That part number for the front arms is for the short arms on the old car. You can keep them and use them for a tuning option if you wish, so it would not be a total waste ordering them.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:47 AM   #3889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray
The pivot ball to eliminate the JR link needs to be long, I think about 1" of thread , I stripped a short one out the first day.

An INCH of thread? That's one helluva ball link.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:56 AM   #3890
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You will want a ball stud with about 3/8in thread
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:56 AM   #3891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
An INCH of thread? That's one helluva ball link.
I am using one of the short kit turnbuckles and it is working fine so far.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:58 AM   #3892
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so is the LOSA9739A is for type R or not?
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Old 05-16-2007, 08:05 AM   #3893
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Those are short arms, they will fit but you will be running the short arm not the stock long arm.
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Old 05-16-2007, 08:10 AM   #3894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
Not sure what they did, but I was told they are changed and should be as strong as the graphite ones we used previously.

I hope they come out soon. I've broke more arms on this car than I have in the previous 3 years of racing. My stock is running low.

I also have noticed the white specs in the broken arms...Just an FYI.
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Old 05-16-2007, 08:28 AM   #3895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
An INCH of thread? That's one helluva ball link.
The part numbers you need to replace the JR link are as follows...

A6532 - Turnbuckles (2 come in a pack)
A6017 - Ball Cups (Plenty in a pack)
A6007 - Ball Studs (Set of 4 - long thread/short neck)

That's what I'm using with no problems with stripping out steering blocks.
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Old 05-16-2007, 08:36 AM   #3896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StewartFan20
I also have noticed the white specs in the broken arms...Just an FYI.
That has been the main thing everyone has noticed after breaking an arm. I think it has something to do with the material used in the first batch.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:18 AM   #3897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Thats true!!! LOL

I hear the hotel theater will be having a Jackie Chan/Bruce Lee film festival. Guess you will be busy too!!!! LMAO

Brant

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I guess i'll see you in vegas again. be nice to Keoni @ the nats. I'll buy you a ticket to the movies so you can hang out with the ABA (asian brother association)
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:28 AM   #3898
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Finally picked my R up today. I've been monitoring this forum since day one but I don't want to trawl through everything again.
So, can anyone enlighten me into any hints or tips on the build, what to purchase for it, a good source for setups etc etc...

Cheers
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:33 AM   #3899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris
Finally picked my R up today. I've been monitoring this forum since day one but I don't want to trawl through everything again.
So, can anyone enlighten me into any hints or tips on the build, what to purchase for it, a good source for setups etc etc...

Cheers
purchase extra arms you can also get a harder front bumper to keep the arms safe, if you are running asphalt i would get a set of front and rear swaybars and spring set, also if you want to use the jr link get some short turnbukles and put sone in the front this will make the camber adjustment with the jr links very easy. I posted a pic a page back or so also there is a picture of the extra bumper support.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:51 AM   #3900
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I am in the process of the same, and have been keeping a note pad next to my browser window for tips found through this thread (and yes, I read the whole thing... twice).

Hope this helps a bit:


Quote:
Diff adjustment:
When you have the front of the car facing away from you, you should be able to hold the left rear tire and spur gear at the same time, then try and rotate the right rear tire. This should barely slip. If you do the opposite, the left tire should slip more so than the right side. On the diff hub the diff ring is keyed by the D-ring. On the diff tube side the diff ring is intended to slip on the brass washer to act as a slipper for you diff. This increases diff life immensely. We have run this setup in mod a lot and it has worked great giving greater diff life to our cars.


TECH TIP BY TODGE:
Apply some of the Team Losi thrust bearing grease on each drive pin that locates into your outdrives of your LCD and RCD. By adding grease to this area it will help free up the car. The nice thing about this is our diff design, all the grease stays contained in in the diff outdrives since everything is enclosed.


JR Link:
This car has tons of on-power steering. I ran the car using todds nats set up minus the 10.5 rear springs (only had 12.5) I first ran the car with the jr link and the car was fine but needed a little more off power steering. With the regular camber link [and not the JR link] the car didn't seem to have the same amount of on power steering but the laptimes proved that the change was for the better. I think that I will stay with the regular link since it's very difficult to make camber adjustments using the jr link.

The part numbers you need to replace the JR link are as follows...
A6532 - Turnbuckles (2 come in a pack)
A6017 - Ball Cups (Plenty in a pack)
A6007 - Ball Studs (Set of 4 - long thread/short neck)


Old JRXS arm usage:
The short arms (old/existing JRXS) are .150" shorter. All you need to do is flip your pivots to use the short arms on the car. You flip the roll center pivots and it even tells you in the manual which holes to use for which arms. I can't speak for the way it handles with short arms for I have not really been able to run my car at all really yet. reverse the side that your pivots are on... if you're running long arms, high roll center and want to run short arms, high roll center just swap the left and right side pivots and flip the front pivot over accordingly. imagine rotating them 180 degrees about the centerline of the car.

The handling effect of the shorter arms is a little less traction at the end you're running them on. i'm currently running long arms in the rear and short arms in the front. my setup started out that way because i broke a front long arm and didn't have any more. i kept it that way because with the long arms the front end was super aggressive on my local track. the shorter arm made the car feel more balanced.


Sway bars:
I am fairly certain that this car benefits from sway bars on the front and rear of the car when running on smooth medium-high bite asphalt. I say that b/c my lap times with the sway bars were not only a tad faster but, more importantly, more consistent. Any of you that may be running asphalt right now might benefit from trying this....(start with 0.030 in the rear and 0.040 in the front).
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Last edited by squarehead; 05-16-2007 at 10:38 AM.
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