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Old 05-13-2007, 06:55 AM   #3796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
there is a way to make yor existing pulley into a spool, all you need is a header card (like a thin card board for a parts bag) and some ca glue, this will save you $$ on shipping and it will take you all about 5 minutes

here is how you do it (from Adrian M.)
thanks marcos. it all worked out this weekend. got the "home made" spool to work. CAing the header cards did the trick.
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:19 AM   #3797
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Originally Posted by ROBORAT
thanks marcos. it all worked out this weekend. got the "home made" spool to work. CAing the header cards did the trick.
im glad it worked for you but thank AdrianM he is the one that told me about that trick,
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:09 AM   #3798
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Originally Posted by RBLove
Larry/Crash,

I started off running the front roll center in the high position and the car was a "pig". Very lazy and unresponsive. I tried different spring combos, droop, and camber and it never came around. I put it back to the low position and went to the rear. I raised the rear roll center .030 (shims) and the car was "money". I noticed, before the change, the rear of my car would lean quite a bit in hard cornering. With this change it kept the rear end more level/flat. Seemed to transition faster and flatter.

I never made it to high roll center front and rear or the mid .030 front and rear.

Crash,

Move the rear arms all of the way back and raise that rear roll center .030 and let me know what you think. If you need more steering disconnect front sway bar. I ended up with a 25lb spring and no front bar.

BTW: double pink front and rear is what I ran today. Bite was on the lower/inconsistent side.

Give it a whirl. Take it for what it's worth. I recommend trying it.
Will give it a try. Still using 20lbs springs in the rear? .5mm front and 1.5mm rear droop?

Later and Thanks,
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:05 AM   #3799
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Took my car for it's virgin run yesterday. The drive train and suspension were so smooth. Much better than the original. Good job to all the Losi guys for all the thought and work that went into this version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow
Hey Type R drivers, just wanted to share some set up stuff that I have learned from asphalt testing the past two weekends....I am fairly certain that this car benefits from sway bars on the front and rear of the car when running on smooth medium-high bite asphalt. I say that b/c my lap times with the sway bars were not only a tad faster but, more importantly, more consistent. Any of you that may be running asphalt right now might benefit from trying this....(start with 0.030 in the rear and 0.040 in the front).

Good luck.
I was only running a .03 in the rear, will try putting the .04 in the front. Do you run any shims under the rear blocks? And where are your arms spaced? I moved the rear arms all the way back and got a lot more rotation in the corners.

Peace,
C
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:40 AM   #3800
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got a really good asphalt rubber setup for stock and 19t,( i havent tried it on my mod type R yet) works very good, lots of corner speed and steering and very well planted. I ll have it ready in a few and i can post it if anybody wants to try it.
Im going to run that same set up on my other car in mod next weekend.
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:46 AM   #3801
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Marcos J- Actually, I think you're right on pointing out that the rubber tire set up that is in the kit manual does spec sway bars front and rear. The point of my post was just to illustrate the fact that I have wandered away from some of the kit set up and clocked times with and without sway bars (along with some other changes) and I felt the need to reiterate the conclusion that the sway bars made the car more consistent.

CRASH- I am running 3.5 mm over ride height droop in the front and 4 mm over ride height in the rear. 15 lb. springs in the front with 56 piston and 30 weight oil, red tamiya foam over bladder; 12.5 springs in the rear with 56 piston and 35 weight oil, red tamiya foam over bladder.

mojoman- Yes, try one front AND rear, be sure to run lap times with and without sway bars and see what the difference is to you. As for shims under the rear pivots, I am not running any anti or pro squat. I am actually running the rear arms all the way forward, but I will be sure to try moving them back next time out as ou suggested.




I would also like to note that two of Losi's newest team drivers here in the So Cal area, Jason Ertrachter and Alan Hewitt, were also out practicing yesterday and are fairing very well with their new cars. I think that the Type R's were the fastest cars in spec all day yesterday.
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:10 PM   #3802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow
Marcos J- Actually, I think you're right on pointing out that the rubber tire set up that is in the kit manual does spec sway bars front and rear. The point of my post was just to illustrate the fact that I have wandered away from some of the kit set up and clocked times with and without sway bars (along with some other changes) and I felt the need to reiterate the conclusion that the sway bars made the car more consistent.

CRASH- I am running 3.5 mm over ride height droop in the front and 4 mm over ride height in the rear. 15 lb. springs in the front with 56 piston and 30 weight oil, red tamiya foam over bladder; 12.5 springs in the rear with 56 piston and 35 weight oil, red tamiya foam over bladder.

mojoman- Yes, try one front AND rear, be sure to run lap times with and without sway bars and see what the difference is to you. As for shims under the rear pivots, I am not running any anti or pro squat. I am actually running the rear arms all the way forward, but I will be sure to try moving them back next time out as ou suggested.




I would also like to note that two of Losi's newest team drivers here in the So Cal area, Jason Ertrachter and Alan Hewitt, were also out practicing yesterday and are fairing very well with their new cars. I think that the Type R's were the fastest cars in spec all day yesterday.
yes the car i feel is alot better with sway bars , i used the kit set-up with some changes and it feels alot better now
here it is
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:11 PM   #3803
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I raced mine for the first time yesterday and besides ripping off two left rear arms, my fault entirely, I thought the rear of the car was a little twitchy on exit of corners. To the cars credit I did abandon the JR link for I find it a PITA to adjust and I had a one replacement ballstud pull out of the front carrier. I only found that after I was home going over the car. That would explain the twitchy steering at speed.

Any ideas on what to do about the twitchy rear on exit or is it possible my loose ballstud was causing some of this? I did talk to Jason last night and he said his is somewhat the same, so I also wonder if it is just a characteristic of this car. This is rubber on asphalt I am talking about. I also wonder if anyone has tried high front roll center and what was the result?
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:11 PM   #3804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
I raced mine for the first time yesterday and besides ripping off two left rear arms, my fault entirely, I thought the rear of the car was a little twitchy on exit of corners. To the cars credit I did abandon the JR link for I find it a PITA to adjust and I had a one replacement ballstud pull out of the front carrier. I only found that after I was home going over the car. That would explain the twitchy steering at speed.

Any ideas one what to do about the twitchy rear on exit or is it possible my loose ballstud was causing some of this? I did talk to Jason last night and he said his is somewhat the same, so I also wonder if it is just a characteristic of this car. This is rubber on asphalt I am talking about. I also wonder if anyone has tried high front roll center and what was the result?
you need to the mod that i did on the front jr link to make it easier to adjust camber



try making the rear camber lenght a little longer move them to position 4


on the set up that i just posted i used high roll center and it was alot better
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:23 PM   #3805
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I see you have high roll center front and rear, I was referring to doing just front and what reaction it would have. I have my old car set at High front and Low rear. It may not be the same at all, just wondering if anyone has tried it.
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:25 PM   #3806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
I see you have high roll center front and rear, I was referring to doing just front and what reaction it would have. I have my old car set at High front and Low rear. It may not be the same at all, just wondering if anyone has tried it.
i havent tried it yet the car was great with both high, ill try it on the other car and see
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:57 PM   #3807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Will give it a try. Still using 20lbs springs in the rear? .5mm front and 1.5mm rear droop?

Later and Thanks,
Yes sir. 20's in the rear. I played around with rear droop and kind of liked 1mm above ride height and still .5mm up front. Play around that let me know how it goes. Keep an eye on lap times and see if it is any faster.
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:24 PM   #3808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBLove
Yes sir. 20's in the rear. I played around with rear droop and kind of liked 1mm above ride height and still .5mm up front. Play around that let me know how it goes. Keep an eye on lap times and see if it is any faster.
Will do.

Later and Thanks,
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:09 PM   #3809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
PRS makes those gears.

Brant
Thanks for the help Brant, you're a life saver! Is there an adapter or are the gears specific for the Losi?

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Old 05-13-2007, 05:23 PM   #3810
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Talking Servo Horn

My buddy's type R has some servo horm issues. he runs it with the servo saver, but even with that had a couple of crashes where the servo horn stripped...the crashes were pretty slow speed, thrugh a low speed corner...is the servo saver on to tight or too soft for it to strip so easy? Its driving him nuts...any advice on wha to check for?
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