schreff

iTrader: (5)

I've been using aluminum screws to hold the battery in on my car. Most all the screws on my car are black aluminum so you really can't tell. Aluminum works fine for the most part. You just have to make sure you put them in tight cuz they can work their way loose. You also have to be a little gentle when tightening otherwise you will strip them. The last thing you wanna do is bust out the dremel to get a screw out.

Livingston

UK drivers, spares are now in the shops.

Got some front wishbones from DMS.

Chris

POOKYT

WHAT??

Somebody say Dremel????

Brant

SoCalMitch

Tried the link and it did not let me even when I registered.

schreff

iTrader: (5)

That's right, I said it! DREMEL!!!

Lucky for me, I have been Dremel free with the Type R. I had a couple people approach me asking if my car came with a dremel. The funniest thing was me finishing my car and then watching the other person build theirs (different brand car mind you) with dremel in hand! Ya, they ate their words.

And can't wait for this weekend. First weekend for me with the car on asphalt.

BillyCaldwell

iTrader: (32)

Great ya got ole Pook hot and bothered. Now he will be in the lab getting after it.

Hey, Brant you are using that quick change cutting wheel setup right? lol

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I didn't need a Dremel, but I did have to file the chassis a bit in the front for belt clearance (if you decided to run the front diff low) and the top deck just a tiny bit to make the connectors on the LiPo a little easier to get to.

I'm having really good luck with the kit setup plus a few changes. 6 degree hubs, 20lb. springs in the rear, and normal camber links up front. It rotates so fast I've had to adjust my reaction time to get on the throttle faster. I'm used to cars taking a little longer to square up and waiting, which I haven't had to do with the R. It's sitting there ready to launch, like it's saying "WTF, lets go already!" Fun stuff, this car has truly made racing more enjoyable.

sportpak

iTrader: (26)

I took my stock steel ones and emmery papered them shiny on top. Now they're standing out in contrast and durable to constant use.

EricF

Anyone know how the "arm" thing is coming along?? I picked up a new kit yesterday still in the box and I heard a front arm break

E

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

I would look to pick up some spares if your shop has them unless you are really good about not hitting things at all. Was not just the fronts, rears were going just as easily.

RussB

finding the problem is the first step toward fixing it.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Try this

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

So they're leaning toward a material/injection issue rather than a design issue? Does that make it more easy to fix, if it's a problem with the batch of EA3 or whatever? I'm not a process guy, sorry.

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Any chance you can upload the original PDF of this? The Jpg version does not print out right for me.

RussB

from my experience, a material issue would be easier to fix than a design issue. if the arms were to be redesigned, they would require new molds which are expensive and take time to get fabricated.

the design seems beefy enough, and the jrxs ea3 arms i had my hands on were damn near indestructible.