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Old 04-07-2007, 10:57 PM   #3031
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Originally Posted by TL_XXX-S_racer
Ya, I was thinking of using the Corally plugs. Another thing I noticed is that the back battery bar by the pully is very close from touching. Will this short out? Im thinking of getting some narrower bars just for the back cell so it will have more clearance.
It will not short out, but will cause binding on the pulley. I have found the Orion bones work very well.
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Old 04-07-2007, 11:11 PM   #3032
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I replaced my fat IB bars with some older Deans bars since they are much narrower. It took a few trys to get it where I wanted it but it works great now. If anybody got used to soldering on the old car then this one is a cake walk!!! LOL

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Old 04-08-2007, 12:07 AM   #3033
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I seem to be struggling with the spool thing too. Do we only need to add the spool pads, or is there a special pulley as well? Part numbers would be perfect if anybody has a second to type them out.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...L-PULLY/Detail

Google is your friend.

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Old 04-08-2007, 12:16 AM   #3034
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Well the fiber glass brace I made up for the front bumper worked really well up until it broke, then the front end was vunerable. I only broke one front a-arm which was off a flapper. The flapper loops out from the board about foot so it will move , but I think the problem I am having is the soft compound tire gripping the flapper as I catch it while the the wheels are being turned into and on-power. I did get tapped in the rear a-arm and it broke, so I went to the old JRXS short arms and the car felt almost the same, but with a little less traction in the rear. My P-Dub bumper never showed up (what a disappointment there), I think that with the P-Dub bumper and the Kydex (BRP) bumper brace the front end will be alot more durable.
Duckman, you can look at the aluminum arms in different ways:
1: If I smash something hard then yes you will damage other parts, but you still might be able to finish a race (unless you take out a knuckle or c-hub).
or,
2: If I lighly tap a flapper then my arm will not break and I can finish a race and drive the car with confidence.
Corally made aluminum arms and they are really nice to have on the cars.
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:17 AM   #3035
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Originally Posted by losi nut
Here ya go syndrome
Thanks, I appreciate the info. It looks like eventually we'll need:

LOSA3328 or LOSA3329? I guess I'll just dremel out an old pulley until those are released. Now I understand what they meant when they said this was being released as a foam car. :-) Foam is my bread and butter for sure, but we're near the end of the season, and I wanna go nitro hunting with some brushless/LiPo on the asphalt, not to mention rubbers on the rug.
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:20 AM   #3036
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For you guys that used the BRP kydex bumper, did you just file down your PDub foam so the top brace will fit okay?

Horizon charged my card for my backordered arms and 6 degree hubs, so hopefully they'll be here soon.
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:28 AM   #3037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman996
Google is your friend.
Their stock certainly is.

I was a little confused due to the availability of spool pads, spool pulleys for the old car in 41T/42T, and spool pulleys for the new car in 41T/42T. That's 5 spool options for two cars, only three of which are currently available, and two of the remaining three require modification to work on the new car. I tried typing that all into Google, but it brought up links for some seedy Canadian porn site.
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Old 04-08-2007, 06:58 AM   #3038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
For you guys that used the BRP kydex bumper, did you just file down your PDub foam so the top brace will fit okay?

Horizon charged my card for my backordered arms and 6 degree hubs, so hopefully they'll be here soon.
I have not used it on my Typr-R yet. But , on my JRXS, it seems like I enlarged the hole on the kydex where the nut on the bumper is to let it lay flatter. Then I pushed down hard on the top bumper piece untill I seated the screws. I also at that time installed longer screws to help hold it all together.

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Old 04-08-2007, 08:01 AM   #3039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 429racer
Corally made aluminum arms and they are really nice to have on the cars.
Which also broke.

However, when you make an arm stronger, it takes the impact and puts it on the next weakest link... like C-hubs, hinge pins, camber links, CVDs, outdrives, etc. Usually, the arm is the cheapest component in this picture, so it makes sense that if you want to break something, the arms is the first to go.



But if they are this fragile, I'm second guessing my decision to buy one of these just yet. I sold my RDX because of the breakage issues, and I don't want another charity case touring car.

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Old 04-08-2007, 09:04 AM   #3040
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
But if they are this fragile, I'm second guessing my decision to buy one of these just yet. I sold my RDX because of the breakage issues, and I don't want another charity case touring car.


Sorry, but this car is NOT 'fragile'. I have run on carpet and asphalt with the new EA3 arms and taken a few licks, with absolutely no breakage. (Granted, the barriers on the tracks I have been running on are not wood 2x4's). I am running the P-Dub bumper, as I did with the previous car.
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:09 AM   #3041
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They said that about the RDX, too, and my laundry list of broken parts was extensive. That was a carpet track with wood wall barriers, though.

Then again, it's not like you can change your local track to suit your car. As cars get stiffer and stiffer, and faster and faster, they also break easier and easier.



Maybe I'll wait a bit to see how this plays out...


$440 is a lot to drop to have to go find new bumpers and a box of spare parts already.
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:07 AM   #3042
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Apex, the car plays out like the RDX. A better than stock front bumper and a lower brace and I think the front end breakage is minimized. Most people I knew had the same problem with the RDX and once the Kydex bumper and brace was put on, the breaking was reduced dramatically (I noticed it with my RDX, I couldn't hardly break the car if I wanted to). I will not run this car again till I get BRP brace and P-Dub bumper. The track I run on has alot of wood with plastic flappers on the corners, but may not be as forgiving as other tracks.

On another note, what do most people who use foam tires do when your tires gum up and start balling hair on them do to prevent this? My car in practice is just stupid fast when the tires are fresh trued and compounded, but then after that they just gum up like crazy (I use lighter fluid to clean them off, but still seem kinda gummy), and the car goes into ill handling due to the hair building up on the tires. Any methods to prevent this or how do you guys keep the tires prepped and clean?
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:20 AM   #3043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
They said that about the RDX, too, and my laundry list of broken parts was extensive. That was a carpet track with wood wall barriers, though.

Then again, it's not like you can change your local track to suit your car. As cars get stiffer and stiffer, and faster and faster, they also break easier and easier.



Maybe I'll wait a bit to see how this plays out...


$440 is a lot to drop to have to go find new bumpers and a box of spare parts already.
You do know that if you don't buy one then you won't be able to keep up with Yeti!!!! LOL

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Old 04-08-2007, 10:29 AM   #3044
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Arms for this car are about half the price of the Corally arms, but since they're sold as R/L pairs and can't be flipped, you can't really make a direct comparison in terms of price. They're definitely less expensive, though.

I spent a lot of time with the RDX through all its transitions, and generally had good luck once I put the kydex bumper on there, aside from what I'm convinced was a bad run of rears. It also made a big difference when the axles didn't extend beyond the wheels. I'm a little shy about taking a Dremel to those just yet, though.

Maybe SRC will sell an ultimate bumper system for the R? :-)
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:31 AM   #3045
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When my foams want to gum up, I usually clean them really well with motor cleaner, and don't let the traction compound sit on them for very long at all. That seems to help reduce how quick they gum up, and lets me make it through a race.

I haven't figured out what causes it. It seems to be tied to temperature or humidity, but it doesn't happen all that often.
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