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Old 04-01-2007, 12:19 AM   #2821
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Congrats to Adam Drake for back-to-back RC Car Action/Reader's Choice 'Driver of the Year' awarded tonight at RCX! Way to go, BUD! Long live SCORE locals!
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:05 AM   #2822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow
Congrats to Adam Drake for back-to-back RC Car Action/Reader's Choice 'Driver of the Year' awarded tonight at RCX! Way to go, BUD! Long live SCORE locals!
yah,,,, im going to need you to go ahead and move your office downstairs....
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:03 AM   #2823
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
yah,,,, im going to need you to go ahead and move your office downstairs....
LMAO @ Keith!!
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:41 AM   #2824
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Hi everyone

Is the build manual for the car online anywhere?? I'm very very very tempted to get a type R given everyones great feedback so far and the cars results........ probably once i finish college this summer and can afford it

Oli
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:14 AM   #2825
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Yes you can get it at http://www.teamlosi.com/
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:46 AM   #2826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Hi everyone

Is the build manual for the car online anywhere?? I'm very very very tempted to get a type R given everyones great feedback so far and the cars results........ probably once i finish college this summer and can afford it

Oli
Manual you can find here... http://www.teamlosi.com/Products/Def...rodID=LOSK0256


Right, build thoughts;
Initial thoughts, nicely packaged, and box is correct size to act as a carry case... nice.

Anyway, first bag - and first problem on very first step of the build! Looks like the holes on metal front drive pulley are in the wrong place (second pic), and means I can't get all three screws in... not the best start to a build. At the moment I have just the two screws holding it in. Todd, shall I contact you about it, or wait till Helgar get their parts?

Anyway, rest of the drivetrain went together well, up until I cam to bolt the rear bulkheads on. Seems the front two rear bulkhead holes don't have quite a deep enough countersinking, as the heads of the screws protrude a little (pic 3). Nothing a little work with a countersink bit can't solve however.
Did notice some slight scratching on the surface of one of the upper bulkheads too (pic 4).

Next up, Diff build. Everything went together well, except one of the pulleys was very tight on the long outdrive, stopping it from having a good action. Solved by quickly running some sandpaper around the inner hole of the pulley.

Carrying on to the rest of the bulkhead build, have to say like the pre-threadlocked screws for the upper bulkheads... just wondering whats the reason for the washer under one screw?

Suspension next, why is there threadlock included with the LCD's, which don't require it Almost made the mistake of using it instead of greese... Anyway, went together well, no issues at all with build of suspension, apart from slight binding of components (but that always happens), quick use of the sandpaper again, and all nice and free.
Just wondering why the two methods of securing the suspension pins, seems a little overkill to me... I personally have dislike of e-clips, so I'll probably remove them, and dremel a flat onto the pin, and just use the set screw method.

Moving to the rear arms, a bit of flashing on the hubs, and a lot of play when built... I seem to remember someone mentioning 0.5mm shims work, so a quick use of those, prob solved. Otherwise, nice and easy.

Continuing onto next post....
Attached Thumbnails
Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0050.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0055.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0060.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0062.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:10 AM   #2827
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Shocks - I like the screw in piston idea, makes it nice and easy to get the shocks screwed in. One piston was a bit tight in the body, so out came the wet and dry around the edge.
One question I have though, whats the advantage of using the double o-ring? I couldn't find any explanation for it in the manual?

Mounting the servo, had to play around a little with the mounts, as I'm using a Futaba S9550. I ended up using narrow mounts, with zero spacers (being a low profile servo ment I could mount it as far forward as possible). I also had to cut a little material out from the mount on the grommet side (pic 1) to get it too fit.

Everything else went in fine. As I'm running stock, I mounted up my electronics as per the instructions, with the ESC on the left (Pic2) and reciever (Pic3) on the right.
I didn't trap the ESC wire under the foam pads as the instructions recomend though... I regularly swap out electronics, so that will make it easier to remove.
I also utilised my MRT iPT to trap the servo wire (Pic4), mounting it on the lower deck, with the servo wire running underneath.

Overall, impressed with the car, although the quality in some areas isn't quite what I'm used too. Now I'm just awaiting some extras (softer springs, front one-way, spool) so I can hit the track.

Regards
Ed
Attached Thumbnails
Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0072.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0076.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0073.jpg   Team Losi JRXS Type-R-dscf0075.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:59 AM   #2828
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Default Black spur gear

schreff what parts do I need to use that different spur that you had on your car......Ps ...still trying to find parts
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:25 AM   #2829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edward Haywood
schreff what parts do I need to use that different spur that you had on your car......Ps ...still trying to find parts
The part I have on my car is made by PRS.

http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/products/18

It was silver and my buddy got a few of them anodized black so you really don't know it's on the car.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:47 AM   #2830
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Just to continue on with my thoughts from earlier;

Things I Like;
Infinetaly adjustable belt tensions, in high or low position - Easy to do by just loosening off the upper bulkhead screws, and rotating the eccentric holder.
Ackerman adjusting - Can move the whole steering system back (using different holes in the top deck) to allow adjustment of ackerman... I have a suspicion thats this may help outdoors.
Easy adjust diffs - slot a tool into the diff screw from the outside, and then turn the opposite wheel.. simple
Intergrated fan mounts - Makes mounting fans nice and easy.
Uptravel limiters - in all honesty, doubt I'll use them, but nice to have the option all the same.

Things I don't;
Difficulty in adjust JR link - Would have been easier to do if the outer part had been offset, or a hole though, allowing a driver through to the set screw.
Excess screws - IMO, there are slightly more screws than are actually needed, especially on the underside, suspension mounts and bulkhead screws in particular. The small Susp mount's seem overly robust.
Foam tyre setup - Ok, a moot point almost, but still a little frustrating, especially as I'm still waiting to get the rubber tyre parts..
Fit and finish on some EA3 parts - rather more work required than necessary, in my opinion.

Regards
Ed
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:58 AM   #2831
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Still waiting for my car to arrive at the model shop. Hope it will be there some time late next week.

Went out again in the old car, so good now.

4.5 brushless, rubber tyres on a low grip track. the best its gone i think
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:00 PM   #2832
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Ran the Type R for the first time today at Aldershot SLCC on RP30
contol tires.
Qualified pole in B final, finsihed second in first final, won the second.

Tried the car in practice on Saturday with high role centre blocks and
found car too twichy.
Ran the car today with low centres but with the older car large spacers
under blocks, car much better. 25Wt spring on front and 20Wt on rear.
Will try running role even lower at WLRC next Monday.

Car has loads of grip and steering.

Chris
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:36 PM   #2833
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Thats good to hear chris
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:45 PM   #2834
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Ran the car for the first time today in practice before it broke from tapping a flapper. The car handled and steered great using the box stock setup! It could carry alot of speed in the corners and flowed nicely. I did not use the upper camber link mod, instead I used another rod end to connect to the chub. Too bad a small tap on the flapper will keep me down till parts are available. I had people come up to me and tell me they couldn't belive it broke off just tapping the flapper, in which I got the reply that they will not be buying this car if it is that fragile.
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:10 PM   #2835
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i got my car together today. all totalled it took like 5 hours from box-o-parts to setting camber, ride height, and dialing in the electronics. that's including robbing the spool pads out of my jrxs. i *did* cheat a bit and just stole the shocks straight off the old car since they were freshly rebuilt and the right pistons / oil for the SWR nats setup from Todd.

very nice kit, the quality is awesome. seems to me that every little issue i had with the jrxs is resolved. the diffs are great compared to the old ones.

i'm pretty much set for next weekend, i've got tons of jrxs arms to run if i break the kit ones, and the shop has a few lcd rebuild kits if i take on of those out.
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