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Old 03-25-2007, 07:19 PM   #2521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
DON'T HIT ANYTHING

Don't say stuff like that, it makes you sound like the guys in the RDX forum. It's really kind of insulting to any racer to hear that as a solution to a problem they are having with parts breakage. It's impossible to be perfect with a wheel, so hitting things with R/C race cars is an expected event. Cars should be able to withstand decent impacts without shattering.

I hope this was a parts breakage anomaly, though. I don't need another fragile $450 car...
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:21 PM   #2522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Anybody figure out how to measure the uptravel? Trying to figure out how to do this to adjust the shock travel limiters. Doesn't say how to in the manual.
I will do my best to explain.

Example:
Set your ride height at 4mm front and rear. Now say you want 2mm of uptravel. When lifting up on the chassis your wheels should leave the ground once the chassis reaches 6mm, which is 2mm above ride height. To achieve this you will need to adjust your droop screws accordingly.

This is much easier for me to show than explain. I hope this helps. If it does not please let me know I will try again
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:36 PM   #2523
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I have spent a ton of time playing around with the tire combo on my care lately, and i can honestly say with a few changes my car feels about the same with either combo, however i do prefer the magentas lap time wise even though it can be a bit harder to drive.

As soon as i get a setup sheet scanned in or someone has one to email me, i'l post what i ran this weekend, it worked real well at a small med bite track and a large high bite track.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:54 PM   #2524
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Is there a printable setup sheet for this car yet? Downloadable manuals?
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:54 PM   #2525
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Ran my Type R today for the first time at our last trophy race,


TQ and a Win in the stock class.
car was simply amazing ... well worth the wait.



Big thanks to Mike H for the tips
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:01 PM   #2526
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I believe that is the procedure for setting droop. For setting the up-travel, which are the screws in the sway bar mounts, I use the following procedure.

I loosen the up travel screws and press the chassis flat on the set-up board. I then lift up the wheel I wish to set and using a standard height gage measure the amount of up travel on the inside of the wheel. Just to clarify slide the height gage under the wheel that is being held up, and the surface of the set-up board. By adjusting the up travel screw you change the amount the arm is allowed to lift, or travel up. There is a bit of "feel" to this method.

I started with the old JRX-S standard setting of 2mm of up travel. This is using the set-up board surface as zero which the chassis is set pressed flat to.

Obviously their are better ways of doing this. Set-up wheels would eliminate any discrepancy due to the pliability of the tires. Another method if you have blocks available of the right thickness is put them underneath the tires while the chassis is pushed flat and adjust the up travel screws and go by the feel of the chassis as it tries to rise. And of course feel free to remove the shocks based on your preference and time available.

Confused yet?

Mike Slaughter

Edit for some more clarification. Again this is for up-travel. Technically yes, droop screws adjust up-travel of the chassis from ride height. But I understand him to mean the actual up travel screws which are in the sway bar mounts which control the up-travel of the arms in relation to the chassis. For instance if we consider droop the amount of lift, or up-travel the chassis has from ride height, up travel would control the amount of drop the chassis has from ride height. So if 2mm of droop (at 4mm ride height) means that if the chassis is lifted the wheels will leave the ground at 6mm, then 2mm of up travel....er......down travel???.... would mean that if the tires were supported independitly that the chassis would dip 2mm below the zero surface of the tires contact patch, or again 6mm of chassis travel from ride height.

Basically bump stops to put it simply, and bluntly.

I mainly have found it to be a powerful tool in combating traction rolling. When the chassis rolls to much and the inside wheel begins to lift the outside is caught by the up travel screw creating a long, rigid arm that extends from the wheel contact patch to the other side of the chassis stopping a traction roll through leverage on the center of mass. I'm sure it has other uses but I am still trying to rack my brain around them. In dirt they are so much more obvious do to the huge amounts of travel and the fact that the tires leave the surface much more often.

Another use is if the chassis is "digging" in the corners. E.g. there is a bunch of tire rubber on the chassis from the chassis actually hitting the surface in a hard corner. This could be counter acted by not allowing the chassis to dip into the ground by hitting the hard stop of the up travel screws. But be warned this can sometimes cause things to be a bit erratic, at least from my experience in the the full size arena.

Last edited by masterhit; 03-25-2007 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:20 PM   #2527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBLove
I will do my best to explain.

Example:
Set your ride height at 4mm front and rear. Now say you want 2mm of uptravel. When lifting up on the chassis your wheels should leave the ground once the chassis reaches 6mm, which is 2mm above ride height. To achieve this you will need to adjust your droop screws accordingly.

This is much easier for me to show than explain. I hope this helps. If it does not please let me know I will try again
the best way i can explain this for you to would be...

1)take the droop screws back up in the arms
2)make sure that the shock collars are evenly screwed down to get ride height
3)once you get the ride height desired you set uptravel/droop.
4) (example) ride height is set at say 5mm
you want 2mm of uptravel/droop.........so you will now take a ride height gage and set the chassi starting from the front ot rear.set it on the 7mm slot.
looking at the bottom of the car,start to screw the droop screw down.once the tire lifts off the table-then loosen the screw untill it rests back on the table.you now have got 2mm of uptravel/droop.


do this procedure to all for arms and it should do the trick for you.

hope this helps,

matt
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:36 PM   #2528
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[QUOTE=masterhit]I believe that is the procedure for setting droop. For setting the up-travel, which are the screws in the sway bar mounts, I use the following procedure.

QUOTE]

The set screws in the sway bar mounts are actually used for down stops.
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:13 PM   #2529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBLove
.
The set screws in the sway bar mounts are actually used for down stops.
Yup, that is another way of looking at it.

The screws are best viewed, and are named after what they do in relation to the chassis as being your zero point. As the normal goal (from a passenger vehicle standpoint, obviously we use it for handling characteristics) is to not disrupt the chassis. When the arm is on the same plane, or resting on the same surface as the chassis they are at zero. If you lift the chassis the arms will fall down, until they are stopped by the droop screws, hence the name. If the arms are lifted, or chassis dropped below the plane of the arms, they will be stopped by the up-travel screws, again why they are named as such.

Jeeze, hopefully I didn't come off to much like an arse there? Sorry if I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Anybody figure out how to measure the uptravel? Trying to figure out how to do this to adjust the shock travel limiters. Doesn't say how to in the manual.
Oh, and it is covered in the type r manual on page 23 paragraph 6. So Uh yeah, carry on.

Splitting hairs I know, but hey what can you do?


Thanks,

Mike Slaughter
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:20 PM   #2530
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I heard old fromt arms worked but tried to mount today and they dont move ?
anyone maybe know why?
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:21 PM   #2531
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Anyone running the 13.5 Brushless on their TypeR? What spur are you using? I currently have a 128, 114 and I'm looking for a 3rd gear to put on my rollout chart.

I also have no idea what rollout to start with for this car. The track is a smaller Carpet track. Usually pretty tight. With 12th scale we would typically run a 2.2" to 2.5" rollout with the 13.5.
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:23 PM   #2532
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Dr
what gearing are you running with the 13.5 and the stock spur im at 42 and think I still got a long way to go
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:27 PM   #2533
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Get a 108T spur (you may need the PRS adapter and their gears) and then some big pinions. I'm using anywhere from about 46 - 52 to hit the rollout I want, which is in the 41.5 - 43 range. PRS carries the larger pinions.

I ran a 48/108 combo today with 56mm tires and it was ridiculously fast.
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:34 PM   #2534
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got a link to prs need to get some stuff
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:36 PM   #2535
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i sold my soul to eddieo for a front arm....great news tho....i can run again

im gonna trade my 7 turn for a 27 turn...
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