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Old 03-24-2007, 10:00 PM   #2491
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Put the nut on first. Cut it. Take the nut off and gently round off the edge.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:01 PM   #2492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke81
We will weigh a lipo, nimh, and your car tomorrow. Then we will figure how heavy it needs to be so you make weight.
I'm never going to tease you about going back to brushed again!

Lets weigh both Orion batteries, it might make sense to go to a platinum if we can't get enough weight from the plate and a carbon.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:04 PM   #2493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I'm never going to tease you about going back to brushed again!

Lets weigh both Orion batteries, it might make sense to go to a platinum if we can't get enough weight from the plate and a carbon.

Sounds great... I could always put mill some pockets in it and fill it with lead if need be.


As for the brushed.. Just going back long enough to learn some tunning skills.. Then back to brushless for local...
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:04 PM   #2494
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TIP---

DON'T trim your axles flush with the supplied 7mm hex nut! If you do, then you won't be able to adjust the width (using optional drive hexes) of the car and still have the nylon thread lock portion of the hex nut 'bite' into the axle.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:05 PM   #2495
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Looks like there's an optional carbon fiber battery tray. Maybe it's really really heavy carbon fiber? :-)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA4311
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:08 PM   #2496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Looks like there's an optional carbon fiber battery tray. Maybe it's really really heavy carbon fiber? :-)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA4311

I could be wrong but I can't see the carbon fiber being near heavy enough to make a difference. Maybe if its got a lead center
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:00 PM   #2497
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syndr0m--You can easily adjust the camber mod links by removing the screw on the C hub and rotating it. I have run my camber mod ever since the first pictures of it came out last year and I love it on Asphalt or even rubber tires on carpet. You might want to heed KB's advice and run the standard link with foams. Running it on the asphalt with rubber tires it keeps the front end flatter and really picked up a lot of high speed steering for me without loosing any low speed steering. Hope this helps. Also, after installing the camber mod and running it for several months, I broke the normal amount of front arms as I do but I never broke the camber mod or even bent the screw. Lets build them and run them so we all can get some good feedback and then we find the magic "Numan" set-up like we did for the JRXS. If memory serves me correctly, my favorite set-up on my G+ was from that years Reedy Race. As also was the now famous "Numan/Ron Rosetti" Reedy set-up for the JRXS. I bet after this years Reedy we will have a great base if this kit rubber set-up is not for the masses.

BTW---Type-R in Da House for Pooky!!!! I'm going to get the pulley cut-outs slotted and CA the chassis in the morning. This will be fun!!

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Old 03-24-2007, 11:03 PM   #2498
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One more thing for you guys. Mid last year I bought the Kydex lower bumper from BRP and it along with my PDub bumper cut out almost all broken front arms after the install. Last I checked they didn't have it listed on the website but I did email them and they still have some in stock.

http://www.brpracing.com/

Email them and ask for the JRXS Kydex bumper. They responded to my email in 24 hours.

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Old 03-24-2007, 11:05 PM   #2499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
and the last driver who had my car was a real HAMMER..

WOW....

EA
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:23 PM   #2500
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Helped get Garretts TypeR out on the track today....

I have to say....the thing looked really good going around the track...

even with Garrett driving ...then he broke it...

TODD....Please send parts!!!! j/k
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:35 AM   #2501
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Looking at the exploded view of the original JRXS, it appears that LOSA6007 is the ball stud you want for the front to use a standard camber link and have it go far enough into the spindle. I'm running foams on carpet, so I'm going to experiment with both styles and see which feels better.
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:08 AM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow
TIP---

DON'T trim your axles flush with the supplied 7mm hex nut! If you do, then you won't be able to adjust the width (using optional drive hexes) of the car and still have the nylon thread lock portion of the hex nut 'bite' into the axle.

ok.....guess i have to fix our whole track instead....man i dont wanna do that...
dang jenkins and his unsuperior pipe putting down skills!

it puts NO gaps in the pipe...
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:36 AM   #2503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
WOW....

EA

i guess he hasnt seen that yet
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:18 AM   #2504
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Anybody have any issues with the sway bar kits? It seems when using the two smallest sway bars .030 & .040 the setscrew that goes into the sway bar end only goes in half way. It doesn't go in far enough to hold the sway bar in place. I've tried several differnt swaybar ends and set screws and they're all the same. They only reach deep enough to hold the two largest bars.
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:50 AM   #2505
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Well I ended up using the tapping screw followed by a steel screw to deepen/clean the threads up. Worked out.
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