New Novak Stock Brushless
12-18-2006, 10:27 AM
#466
Originally Posted by chance
I've been running the GTB/13.5 on carpet with foams for a few weeks. Your rollout will be dependent on your setup and layout. With the stock rotor I've geared from 26.4mm up to 33.2mm. I can tell you that you will thermo with a 33mm rollout and a car that is bound up. Another thing is batteries, if you pratice with a high rollout and don't thermo on 3800s, you could still thermo with a good 4200 near the end of a run.
The best cure is the sinitered rotor. It dropped my motor temp drasticly. With the sinitered rotor I'm running a high 36mm rollout and it comes off the track at 130 degrees. I've run the rollout even higher, close to 38mm, but I'm at my personal driving limit in the 36.8mm range.
The best cure is the sinitered rotor. It dropped my motor temp drasticly. With the sinitered rotor I'm running a high 36mm rollout and it comes off the track at 130 degrees. I've run the rollout even higher, close to 38mm, but I'm at my personal driving limit in the 36.8mm range.
12-18-2006, 02:43 PM
#467
Hi Guys,
I'm not sure where to start, so I'll just start.
Temp with the 13.5 is a bit different. With the sintered Rotor, you'll see about 130-140 as the max. I've got reports from drivers of gearing up past that temp, with no laptime change, sometimes "felt" slower.
With the regular Rotor, you want about the same max temps. The problem if you overheat the standard Rotor is that it pretty much NEEDS to be replaced at that stage. After they get hot, they get weak, this makes the motor run hotter and the cycle continues.
Now, I've been doing the warranty inspections here at Novak since 2001. Pretty much I'm the only guy here that does them "full time". I've seen every color and condition of ESC you can imagine. From good to bad. Now since BL has come around, things are more tricky. The question of Did the motor kill the ESC or was it the other way around is common. From my experience testing Novak "systems" it's never both, it's one or the other very very clearly. The motor has a defect, or the ESC does.
Typically I don't think a motor will "kill" an ESC (at least not an Orange one) The GTB and the SS have ESC protection for this. EVEN if you disable the MOTOR temps sensor, the ESC's is still there to protect it. Disabling the motor temp protection only runs the risk of shorting the motor VIA it being very very hot, or getting it so hot it goes bad and shuts off the ESC.
Other products are not this way, So when the ESC "lets go", it also applies a short across the motor coil. This in turn, shorts the motor out completely. In that case, it's fairly safe to say, the ESC killed the motor.
I'm not going to post that one ESC or the Other ESC has this condition. I really hate when people do that to us. If you'd like some information on this topic drop me an email anytime.
And as always, feel free to email me directly anytime. The first think I do when I come in, and the last thing I do before I leave is emails.
Thanks
Charlie
I'm not sure where to start, so I'll just start.
Temp with the 13.5 is a bit different. With the sintered Rotor, you'll see about 130-140 as the max. I've got reports from drivers of gearing up past that temp, with no laptime change, sometimes "felt" slower.
With the regular Rotor, you want about the same max temps. The problem if you overheat the standard Rotor is that it pretty much NEEDS to be replaced at that stage. After they get hot, they get weak, this makes the motor run hotter and the cycle continues.
Now, I've been doing the warranty inspections here at Novak since 2001. Pretty much I'm the only guy here that does them "full time". I've seen every color and condition of ESC you can imagine. From good to bad. Now since BL has come around, things are more tricky. The question of Did the motor kill the ESC or was it the other way around is common. From my experience testing Novak "systems" it's never both, it's one or the other very very clearly. The motor has a defect, or the ESC does.
Typically I don't think a motor will "kill" an ESC (at least not an Orange one) The GTB and the SS have ESC protection for this. EVEN if you disable the MOTOR temps sensor, the ESC's is still there to protect it. Disabling the motor temp protection only runs the risk of shorting the motor VIA it being very very hot, or getting it so hot it goes bad and shuts off the ESC.
Other products are not this way, So when the ESC "lets go", it also applies a short across the motor coil. This in turn, shorts the motor out completely. In that case, it's fairly safe to say, the ESC killed the motor.
I'm not going to post that one ESC or the Other ESC has this condition. I really hate when people do that to us. If you'd like some information on this topic drop me an email anytime.
And as always, feel free to email me directly anytime. The first think I do when I come in, and the last thing I do before I leave is emails.
Thanks
Charlie
12-18-2006, 03:26 PM
#468
Good run Saturday Chance. I didn't know you had a sintered rotor in yours. Good to hear it helped out with some of the issues. I'll have to try one out sometime next year. I'm all moneyed out after buying the 2 XRay's and XMas shopping! But we'll see what Santa has to bring I guess. Hopefully I'll get some more green and I'll try one out. Catch ya Saturday...
12-18-2006, 06:33 PM
#469
Tech Initiate
Thanks Jimmy, I just got lucky. You need to get one, I would like to see just how fast they really are. I think they're faster than stock, I just lack the skills.
But about the sinitered rotor, more people are using them than you think, there's maybe two or three that don't have them... yet. It's just nobody wants to say they are using them for some reason. It's easy to tell, just look at the size of their pinion/spur gear. LOL
But about the sinitered rotor, more people are using them than you think, there's maybe two or three that don't have them... yet. It's just nobody wants to say they are using them for some reason. It's easy to tell, just look at the size of their pinion/spur gear. LOL
12-18-2006, 11:44 PM
#470
Hi all,
Is this the correct sintered rotor that will just drop stright into the 13.5t?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXNLZ1&P=K
Thanks
Pete
Is this the correct sintered rotor that will just drop stright into the 13.5t?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXNLZ1&P=K
Thanks
Pete
12-19-2006, 12:07 AM
#471
Originally Posted by PeteB
Hi all,
Is this the correct sintered rotor that will just drop stright into the 13.5t?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXNLZ1&P=K
Thanks
Pete
Is this the correct sintered rotor that will just drop stright into the 13.5t?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXNLZ1&P=K
Thanks
Pete
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm
12-19-2006, 09:58 AM
#473
Originally Posted by Solara
Which profile of the GTB is good for 13.5 stock on foam carpet touring car use...? Both (3) throttle profile and the (4) braking profile..? Thanks in advance...
12-19-2006, 02:07 PM
#474
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
I used profile #3 if you have the sintered rotor leave it with #3 but if you have the stock rotor yes use #3 but bump up the drag brake some
12-21-2006, 09:05 AM
#475
Just got my GTB and 13.5, any tips before I open up the box??
12-21-2006, 09:10 AM
#476
Originally Posted by shaggys40oz
Just got my GTB and 13.5, any tips before I open up the box??
12-25-2006, 10:44 PM
#477
Tech Regular
Sorry found my answer.
12-26-2006, 12:04 AM
#479
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
Hi guy i was new to brushless may i know did the SS13.5 stock brushless motor come with the sintered rotor that you guy say? thanks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNLZ1&P=7
12-26-2006, 11:00 AM
#480
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
Hi guy i was new to brushless may i know did the SS13.5 stock brushless motor come with the sintered rotor that you guy say? thanks
4.5R come with ribbed motor can but with standard rotor.
The rest 5.5R - 7.5R come with standard rotor & motor can.
I wish the next generation of velocity motors all come with sintered rotor & ribbed can.