MarkieMark231

Hey all I've been posting around here trying to get back into the hobby and I want to start with an electric because Gas would just be a pain in my ass right now. I have a couple of questions first about the cars could any recommened me some? I'm looking for 1/10 scale we have smooth asphalt around our block so I'm fine there I was thinking the TC3 or the XXX-S suggestions I'll take. Also about how long they'll last I was thinking about 15-19t some sort of modified motor with maybe a nice 3300 and up batteries. How long would I be looking at run time wise. I hope I can atleast have 5-7 because I remember my old stampede and 4tec ran out my batt. at 5 min with everything stock if the time will still be the same I might as well just get a gas lol

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

i got a xxx-s..it was where i first fell into electric.cause its belt and i like belt driven car..but i also had a lot of good story about that car. actually i pit with a guy who run tc3.and his doing well....but those car are already old...time to ride with time... i got xray t2.if your determine to stay on the hobby...then just rather buy new cars...like xray, tamiya or corally...for newbie just run stock. i know everybody wanna go fast without considering thier driver skills. if they can handle it..while stock is simple and competitive.....


battery life depends on

esc( if your esc has higher amp draw)

gear( if you over gear)

battery itself ( if not taken care of)

charger( have to have a good charger)

MarkieMark231

Yes I plan on keeping this a hobby for as long as I can I can't get enough of it RC Racing is awsome. I plan on going electric for cars and gas for trucks. I'll look into the Xray 2 what about the TC4?

Drewdc90

iTrader: (3)

Xray T2's are an extremley good car and are very easy to work on and setup. If you were to get something other than a T2 a Hot Bodies or Tamiya would also a very good car. I haven't heard the best about the TC4, on some other threads people were saying it is one of the worst handling top end cars.
Stock is probably the best class to start with as it is no too hard to set up your car and is still very compeditive.
Drew.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

I didn't quite gather if you were looking to actually race or just have some fun around the neighborhood. So I'd recommend a car that will fit both roles. The Tamiya TA05. Its the best value in R/C (short of the ICE charger), but can EASILY compete with cars that cost 3 times as much if you plan on doing some racing. It also has lots of aftermarket support if you like to add **bling** to your cars. It only cost $129-$139 depending on which body you get it with. Don't let the low cost fool you!

You didn't say what you were looking to spend on battery stuff, but if you even think you might have the cash, I would recommend the Duratrax ICE/Orion Platinum LiPo combination. The ICE is the best value in R/C...PERIOD! At $129 it carries 95% of the features of the $450 chargers made by the competition.(and it has 100% of the competition's features that we actually use on a regular basis) And the Orion Platinum LiPo is $139 by itself, BUT it will give you all the run time you'll ever want. If you run stock or 19t you'll easily get 10+ minutes of running. YES, I said 10+ minutes. In addition it doesn't carry the draw backs of regular packs. No memory and you can charge it one week and use it (while still at full capacity) 1-2 weeks later!!! *But note that you will need a proper charger (such as the ICE) to charge a LiPo.

For the motor, I've never been a fan of stock motors, but 19t can be too fast for some people. If you have confidence in your driving, or if your just playing around in a nice open area, I'd say go for a 19t motor.

MarkieMark231

Thnx for the response. Well I want kinda of a race worthy machine I want to eventually make it to the tracks some day but I no nothing about what I'm doing well the basics and thats it and how to setup anything really so I don't think I want to hit the tracks quite yet I don't want to make an ass out of myself :P

MarkieMark231

I also have some more questions on Lipo and Brushless is brushless alot easier to take care of motor wise? Like no more cutting comms and breaking in? And Lipo's how long do they take to charge?

Drewdc90

iTrader: (3)

Yes brushless are extremley easy to look after. All you have to do is clean them and oil them (like you have to do to all motors). They go just as hard as brushed motors and are very consistant from day to day and from heat to heat use.
Drew.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

I'd be lost without my 4.5 and 5.5....

You save SO MUCH TIME!!!.. no messing with coms, shims, alignment, brushes bla bla bla....
Just chuck it in, set it up and you're done.

A strange flipside... i always run a one-way and if you get a Novak, you can dial out ALL the drag brake. Makes the rear end feel very planted!!!! Don't buy it for that alone... lots of people like a little drag brake to help the car tip into a corner. But it's a nice little bonus...

Also, the BL is just so smooth. Fanatstic linear feel. No big jump of power 1/3 into the throttle travel.

Great performance, great consistency, good cost/performance ratio.. I'm not going back.

Ben.C

I migh just jump ship and get me the 4.5 and 5.5.....

Seems to be the trend now...

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

yup brushless and lipo is indeed the new thing , for new guys who is just bushing around on the parking lot that might be good,but on the other hand if your on the track you cant get the power and speed if your a newbie..

and also brushless and lipo ,is still a bushing stuff as off now..untill its legall...

but i will admit im amaze how fast it is.. super fast and lipo takes a while to drain..

Lomaric

Markie,
I just recently got into the electric car racing myself, actually I have only done one race. The track I go to was nice enough to but together a few of us less talented drivers and run a seperate class from the big boys. If you have a local track as good as mine then the regulars will help get you started with alot of advice and suggestions. One thing that I have noticed is that if your like me I have a limited budget to race with and "opinions are like butt-holes...everyone has them" so they will say buy the most expensive product out there. They mean well though so I recommend you listen to them all and take what advice you can learn. I was that guy that bought a 12 turn motor and when I showed up to the track and saw how fast the 19 turns were I quickly found a stock motor. Go to the track drive slow and work on not hitting the walls..and most of all have fun!

Fantomcat

learning to drive your car is the best thing to do, and it is best if you do it with a stock motor. its funny to watch some new people that cant drive put in a mod. its like watching a windowlicker on acid. (if that offends anyone, my apollogies). but yeah, get the feel for your car, and watch the fast guys drive, try and run the lines they are running.

MarkieMark231

Thnx for the replies but what about my Lipo Question can these batts be ran all day? and if so what is there charge time?

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Lipo's can indeed be run back to back.
By run all day you will obviously have to stop when they're flat. A typical 3800Mah battery lasts around 7mins with a "hot" motor like the Novak 5.5
This might not seem long, but you'll be tied from concentrating that long with a car that fast.

A Lipo will last around 7mins longer which really is a big jump. The bonus is that the Lipo pack can be charged to "nearly full" very quickly. Not only that, but the Lipo's are significantly lighter too...Most popular Lipo packs are around 4800Mah rating.

Lipo's however can be run as many times a day as you want without damage as long as you let them cool between uses. NiMH batts don't like being used too many times a dy. Typically twice. So lots of racers have boxes of batteries.

Also, Lipo give consistent volatage for the entire run. AND, they give MORE voltage than NiMH. So that means faster speeds and more punch. (NiMH batts get lower in voltage when they run flat so the first minute or so feels very punchy. Then the pack feels a little dead)

These figures are of course approximate. And runtimes will be MUCH MUCH longer if you're using more mild motors. Low turn motors realyl burn up the juice.