TRFTIM

Ok guys I have a TL01 dont laugh, its a one series make, everything must be standard including the motor I run foamies on it and have a carbon Prop shaft, it is the Long arm version also. So the tracks that I race on are dusty indoor gyms with a type of lino floor.

The 64,000,000 question is whats the best set up that u would start with ie camber, ride height errrr toe in/out etc.

thanks alot

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

ooof, if its dusty start with the softest setup you can possibly get on it... no need for much camber, -1 max since you probably wont generate enough grip to roll the tire...

ford_racing

iTrader: (6)

You might want to ge tthe toe in rear hubs if they are allowed, they are fixed at 2 deg but can help a lot. but they may not be allowed if they have to be spec cars

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

Ride Height Front = 5mm
Ride Height Rear = 5.5
Camber = -.5 to -1 max
Front toe = .5degs out
Rear toe = 2 - 2.5 degs in
Shock oil = start at 25 then move up if you get too much steering or the car is twichy or move down if the car pushes
Springs = medium in the front and then soft in rear
get the softest foams say a 37 shore in the front and a 35 rear
See how that works out for you

Faiz

TRFTM - My first RC also TL-01, I love this car, I used to have 2 units, now still keep one set at very good condition (..race ready at the moment but currently stay at my display )
some people said its not tuneable, I said its just need slight different setup approach due to..
- Transverse batt
- Rigid tub chassis
- slight inneffiecient drivetrain..

Would you please
1. just test run your car at any current condition / setup on your car right now
2. and then let us know what kind of handling that you don't like from it..
tell us what do you want from it.. is it understeer or oversterr or somethin', post here buddy..
3. then we can suggest you how to set your chassis..
goodluck..

Faiz

tell us hop-up item on your TL-01 please..

TRFTIM

Thanks guys already.

Right then I have a carbon Prop shaft, speed tuned gear set, 19t steel pinion, Novak Cyclone TC2, Hitec 325 BB servo, Long arm set, standard mabuchi motor.

I cant change anything material wise now as it is a standard class.

I have cleaned the motor in the glass trick. changed all my battery connections to Deans, Foams are 32 front 37 rear.

Body shell is a Toyota Celica.

Why the Toe out???


Thanks again guys great forum.

Faiz

myself never run toe-out, always zero (0)

you might consider changing servo arm with TA04 Hi-Torque servo saver, it would give better ackerman with/without Long Span Arm

My car using Front One-way 53200, this would make this car turn smoother and better.
with one-way, I'm usually running 26 mm 40 shore Front and 26/28 mm 37 shore Rear to slightly tone-down the aggresivenes of the front end with one way,

best motor for bashing with this chassis (with speed tune installed) I suggest you these motor:
- Tamiya TZ 23T (Stand Up Brush)> with speed tune, small track use 21 pinion or 23 pinion for bigger one, or
- Tamiya RZ 23T (Laydown Brush)> with speed tune, 19 pinion on small track
and 21/23 pinion for large one,
both would give you plenty of speed and runtime.. plug in 1/8" x 3/8" motor bearing to replace motor bushing for extra rippin'..

If you feel these are not fast enough, drop 10x2 turn motor on it with standard spur and 19 pinion and set a slightly low timing..

TRFTIM

Hi Thanks for the help

I can only use a standard motor in the car (540 Mabuchi)

Its a slippery circuit so does 5mm do any good or should I raise to 10mm?

Had my 3rd race of the year yesterday and came 6th in the A final out 31 drivers so not too bad but still problem with cornering.

Tonight I am gonna strip her down and clean everything, bearings the Diffs etc. cz whan i spin the front wheels they spin for 2 seconds wher as my mates car, spins for ever,


Tim

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

toe out makes the car easier to drive but a 0 would be the most nutral

as for ride height you want the lowest you can make the car w/o losing the suspension and by losing I mean its so low that the suspension does not move.

yo mentioned that your bearings only sping for two seconds... that right there could be why you can't turn the way you want...

I'd recomend to keep your current setting if you're placing 6th out of 31people you car is almost there you just need to clean her up.

As for bearing take the seals off and sonic clean them in wd40 or denatured alcohol then relube with just one drop and small drop at that... spin the bearing with your fingers to lubercate the balls then reseal one drop is all you need per bearing.

Finally, you mention cornering... when you turn does the car oversteer, continue to turn, or does it push, meaning it goes straight when you tell it to go left or right?

GL

oh I forgot to mention you want to always have the front tires hard than the rears as a rule of thumb that or equal. Lastly, always true your tires to 57-60mm (the taller the sidewall 60mm vs 57 will give you less or more grip) all the way around then after each round check their wear. if they are diffrent sizes make them all the same size (meaning make the smallest the equal all the way around).

hope that helps

TRFTIM

This is really great help guys thanks

I have started to strip her down already, so I have noted everything you have said. as for the motor, I have done the In the cup wash for 15 seconds is there anything else I can do to get a bit mire power, I have put some com drops in there aswell ( standard motor remember)

Thanks again guys, learnt so much from this thread already.

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

nothing really for that motor you already did the cup thing... and comm drop which would have been my recomendation the only thing now is to make sure that comm stays clean and shiny... get a comm stick and try to keep her clean... another thing to try to get other motors and try doing the same methods on them (cup, drops and clean) so that each qual or main its a freash motor.

another thing you might want to try is your cells... what do you currently use? also what ESC do you have? you might get an extra kick or effecnt out of a better esc.

Thus far I would keep your setup honestly cause you're killing the crowd as it is you're the top 10 of 30 which what the 80% better then the rest...

Keep up the good work! and keep us updated

TRFTIM

Cheers DeZnuts

I currently use a Novak TC2 ESC,

I also discharged all my cells the day before race at 10 amps and then discharged them with a pocket discharger at 1 amp, and charged them at the track just before the races, I have the impression that I lacked punch.

I have the Longarm kit in place, but the holes on the rear susp arm lower the rear alot but the front does not equal the ride height of the rear?? any ideas apart from cutting the springs down as I really want to stand the shocks upright?? to give easier contro land max traction??

Cool work guys


ps do you think Hara has a TL01

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

Charge/Discharge seems to work well for you... once again I wouldn't change what you're doing...

however if you want more punch you'll need to charge @ a higher rate (bump it up 1amp that you currently charge at) and then use them as soon as they peak. Down side to this is that these cells won't last too long but that's racing.

Personally, with your current skills I would keep everything the same just try out the car with it being rebuilt.

as for your suspension question I'm not sure how to fix/answer that.